Shouldnt need air bags with a 5-6k trailer, ~700lbs of tongue weight, and weight dist hitch. Bags are just a nice to have at that point.

I did about 10k miles towing with an 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel, 15k with 14 Touareg TDI, then 15k with a Class C, and now just a couple thousand with an F150. TBH, The Jeep and VW pulled the trailer 100% as good as the F150 with just a WDH and nothing else.

I need to know my tongue weight and don't, so they couldn't sell me the hitch.
Until I find a scale to play on = :dunno:

That seems silly cause you know about what it "should" be. 12-15% of total trailer weight. So probably 600-750lbs. I have 600lb bars.

But for sure, scale is what you want. Just make sure you measure the vehicle without trailer then vehicle only with the trailer. Total gained will be your tongue weight.

When I originally got my setup dialed in, I think was around 11-12%. It was still a bit sketchy in some areas and on a trip to Solo Nats I just shifted the car forward only 2" and the effect was dramatic. So dont discount the effects of small movements.

those hitches are expensive, so I definitely don't want to guess on the weight and be wrong.
so, maybe I'm wanting to go ahead and load the car facing forward but leave it as far back as I can? I just get freaked out because the rear of the car hangs off so far LOL

On my Curt hitch I originally got 1000lb bars and they were way to stiff. So I just had them order new bars for me which was maybe $75 IIRC? Cant be for sure since I got this hitch in 14'.

If you want to get a little un-scientific, get ~2 people to stand on the hitch and measure how far the back squats. Take that and use the ratio of desired weight / people weight to multiply your gap change by. Then move the car to achieve that. I may or may not have started with that method :lol:

Better than nothing : lol: I guess I could start with lighter bars on the hitch. Even if it's not enough, we can't make the situation worse, right?

On an open trailer - 600 lbs bars, for a 24ft or smaller enclosed - 800. I technically could go for 1000 with the added tools in the front of the trailer but with the duelly now it's not necessary. BTW my 2500 duramax is still for sale if any of you are or know someone. https://cbmautosales.com/inventory

After much poking and proding....Myles at English FINALLY shipped my Motec stuff. Can't wait. AGT finally shipped my 52mm turbo, annnnd now still waiting on JetHot to finish the manifold.

Have you looked into install yet? I havent done anything but assuming I need pre-throttlebody IAT and replace front o2 with wideband? Which crank trigger are you going to run?

Haven't started either, was gonna ask you lol. Going to have to ditch the MAF for sure so IAT is already there from old setup, need to see if my old faithful perrin filter will fit without the maf or I just break the screen out because I wanted to keep recirc setup for response but I'm curious if I just keep the APS bov and "vent" technically. Unsure about o2 vs wideband?

I got his GPR license but no I'm on the OEM trigger still since it would require unpressing the AIT, dry sump, and all that jazz that works atm to change it.

Just verified with him we have the GPR package so no locked to one crank trigger. I'll probably order a Kiggly crank trigger to swap in when I replace my front case this winter (a maintenance item after every few years for me...). But stick with OEM for now.

Does the gross weight matter? My choices are 10k/600 or for $200 more 8k/600

Sst trans
 

Having this weird issue when I turn off the car sometime the car launches a little is the sst going to fail

a weight distributing hitch isn't going to fix your setup. you need to fix the tongue weight problem because right now you clearly have too much tongue weight. you know what your tongue weight should be based on weight of trailer/car, you don't just measure whatever it is and buy a matching set of arms. the real problem is that trailer is too short for your car but you probably don't want to buy a new trailer.

when you had the car on backwards it looked pretty close, why didn't you pull the car all the way forward? when you are moving 3000 lbs a couple inches matters.

I test drove with the car facing backward and got horrible sway. You're thinking if I backed the car farther up, that would helped? I'm thinking I'd still have most of the weight at center or rear
This is all surprising to me because I've towed this with a Nissan Frontier and Toyota Tundra with no problem. Neither squatted much. I think the owner of the Frontier may have had air shocks installed and bumped them up a bit. Not sure.