Originally Posted by bee-raddd (Post 11945892)

I went 68mm bosch e throttle, Initially i retrofitted a subaru legacy accelerator position sensor but it was a pain. Evo X pedal would have been far nicer. I have a pedalbox also and i used a rotary encoder sensor like a throttle body sensor now which is far more reliable.

Unless youve got a Motec or lyfe racing etc ecu you wont really gain much from it its more of a headache than anything. Throttle blip doesnt work properly with the run of the mill ecu companies e.g link haltech etc because you cant run 3d tables incorporating brake pressure and what not like you can with motec. Motec you can also adjust the throttle motor PID etc which link and haltech and what not dont allow you to do. Ive never managed to get throttle blip working properly on the link or haltech. So apart from possibly setting up cruise control ( which would be a pain as youd need to wire up buttons for it etc also which take up inputs in the ecu) and ditching factory idle control there isnt alot to gain from them.

Traction control would be possible but again youd need to wire all of your wheelspeed sensors up to the ecu in order to set it up which uses up precious inputs on your ecu. and i dont think it would be sophisticated TC like a Bosch unit or something would give you.


If i was to do it all again i would probably have stayed mechanical and worked out a way to get a cable up from my pedal box to the TB.

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11945829)

Alright folks, Throttle by wire (TBW) stuff starting and looking for a first round of feedback because some of you have thought through this stuff already. I'm planning EvoX throttle assy (I have the assy, will be making an adapter but saving that as a task when new 3d scanner gets here) and Bosch 68mm throttle body. Here's some bulleted thoughts, argue and critique away :)

• 68mm throttle body is bigger than stock 60mm, works out to be a great sizing for ported stock manifold. Seems no reason to go 60mm, and bigger than 68mm isn't necessary without going to a higher flow manifold which is outside the realm of this implementation
• O-ring on both sides cause RTV is lame. I spent a good bit of time tonight with O-ring calculators to get 25% crush on a 2.5mm o-ring and have 66-80% void fill and it looks pretty good. But I'm not an O-ring expert, just the minimal I've learned doing a few rounds of basic implementations
• EvoX pedal is arguably not as nice feeling as the GTR assembly (both readily available on Ebay and other sources) but EvoX is cheaper and easier to find. Evo pedal has very little damping force though it does match the feel of the stock cable assembly.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6180418d54.jpg
So, what do ya'll think? Doesn't necessarily need to be for anyone but me, but if you were making choices for yourself what would you want?

Originally Posted by Balrok (Post 11945939)

If the winter list is going this strong, one of ya'll should look at an adjustable turbo support rod we spoke about on the other thread. Enough of us use the oem hot side still but it "should" also translate to T3/4 if you're using the same thread location on the oem block. Someone mentioned the oem o2 had this but it's been so long since i've put eyes on one.

Originally Posted by Balrok (Post 11945939)

If the winter list is going this strong, one of ya'll should look at an adjustable turbo support rod we spoke about on the other thread. Enough of us use the oem hot side still but it "should" also translate to T3/4 if you're using the same thread location on the oem block. Someone mentioned the oem o2 had this but it's been so long since i've put eyes on one.

Originally Posted by kikiturbo (Post 11945952)

I did this for my EFR setup. The turbo is relocated towards the gearbox so I dont use the OE thread in the block, but this is how I did it. It supports the turbo and manifold against the forces from the block shaking around the crank axis but allows for manifold expansion.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...2518b38d38.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...a3783601c1.jpg

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11945954)

Because this is a 2-force member, vibration and loads transmitted through that bar in effect cause extra load on other parts. Honestly, I would run nothing over that.

The other issue of rigidly attaching to the block is thermal expansion of the manifold. A cast header isn't as bad for thermal expansion as a tubular header. Its probably better creating some sort of anti-gravity loading if you need that with a spring force opposing turbo/manifold mass.

Originally Posted by kikiturbo (Post 11945955)

I fail to see the extra load but to each its own..

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11945967)

Its not really a "to each his own" scenario. For this to provide any load restraint vertically it will inherently create a load laterally due to the angle of the support member. That lateral load is restrained via bending forces through the manifold. And because that particular member is greater than 45deg, the resultant lateral load is greater than the vertical load.

Im not trying to be catty here, this type of thing is literally part of my job IRL. Calling out design oddities, and looking for better solutions. I would remake that bracket on the turbo to get the two force member more vertical. So thermal expansion only changed the angle of the bar somewhat insignificantly and it could handle vertical loads without inducing extra stress on the manifold.

Originally Posted by ayoustin (Post 11945957)

This is one of the reasons I like having a cast manifold. No welds to worry about failing. Word on the street is Artec is making a stock flange investment cast stainless steel manifold soon similar to the vband one they currently offer.

https://www.drifthq.com/products/art...40057327517743

Originally Posted by Balrok (Post 11945993)

Something like that but with wiggle room like Dallas said. It does need to "move" but we're just trying to take "some" of the load off all those gaskets. HPA did one similar to that, just an adjustable rod to "a mounting point". But there's a reason the good downpipes mostly have flex joints. So how do we accommodate. This is believed to be the #1 reason we loose bolts/studs in this area.