You lucky bugger haha. in that case then yes you will be able to do blip. But youll need to wire in brake pressure sensors to the ecu to do it properly.

If you piggyback wired in the wheelspeed sensors from the ACD ecu you could also play with traction control.

with a motec you do not need the ACD ecu.. :D

Well, as of current programming the Motec isn't quite there yet. Its way to basic of a control as far as I can tell in my map and not nearly good enough to replace OEM control. But once I get things wired up I'm hoping to work with John to get more useful maps for the control of ACD.

Got a few things holding me up right now, namely the house build and move but also machining is taking so much time.

You are talking about JRR firmware with ACD control option? I always thought it worked well since motec has been making ACD controllers for a while. I cant use it as it doesnt work with AYC, but easier control of ACD/AYC would be fun.

Its been a bit since I looked into it and found the maps, but it wasn't a very sophisticated control scheme. I don't recall exactly the maps, but it was something like throttle or longitudinal accel only. Not sure if it even uses any lateral accelerometer data and pretty sure there's no steering input. The stock map has combos of variable multiplied and added to increase or decrease depending on the situation. Like at high steering angle I want to decrease center diff but at high lateral change rates I want to increase it. These types of things are controlled in stock format but not in motec.

I know it works well in dirt but my concern is the lock up of center causing understeer as I have experience with some maps. But mid corner on track off throttle, I need the diff fully open unless yaw starts ramping up like too much lift rotation.

Does Spiider do anything custom for the ACD? I long time ago I contacted him about it but never followed up.

@bee-raddd @kyoo

Well here's my battery reloc. What do you think? Not much left on top of the trans. I removed every wiring ties and brackets, except the one nearest the starter. Relocated some grouding points Replaced all the split looms to get rid the twists. All OE wiring is intact, Added a cutoff switch and a 40A DC socket. Extra battery for cold morning starts :)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5661495fb8.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...25aa2772f0.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...73dab3576f.jpg
this doubles as the charging terminal, or I can use the DC socket for trickle charger. Copper M6 bolts are enroute

nice!

looks good! is the relocation bracket mounted to anything or just floating in the engine bay?

Thanks gents. The harness/switch/fuse is supported by the thick wire bolted to the trans. high enough to clear the shifter cables and rigid enough to turn the switch

The only things id consider doing now would be to look into relocating the switch etc on a nice bracket mounted to the firewall or something like that for some extra tidyness and security, And a kick plate that goes over the battery to tidy the look up so it looks factory and stops any passenger in the back accidentally kicking it or anything silly.

Thanks. I thought about those. Hanging the switch higher (if i could even find a place for it) will just expose a couple of fat wires. And the fuse will be around the same spot. I would also like to avoid bare "aluminum parts", I just cant take care of them. I tried to mount it by the cam sensor but the cable to the fuse box needs to be lengthened. I dont have a backseat so I just worry about stuff I put on the floor. but yeah I want the battery blacked-out and still have easy access for tech inspections. I needed to put back my car together as I'm 2mos behind on my registration/smog inspection :)

Alright folks, need a check on reason here.

Been running the CNC and cant work on Evo or Tesla till thursday (need running cars for fam reasons) so looked back at this cam gear offset. Since mivec cant be adjustable with the threads in the gear itself, here's what I'm thinking and just want a sanity check on spacing.

The orange is stock positions. I think this is right, but each step here is 1/4 tooth offset plus 1 tooth. So if I need 1/2 tooth for a 4G64, I would bolt in the "blue" hole and line up the "blue" mark. They wouldn't actually be colored, just match hole number with tick number. To get a partial tooth offset, here I have 1.25 tooth increment (7.5*1.25 deg).

In all honesty, this isnt necessary at all. On my 2.4 I set the tick retarded 1/2 degree and adjusted the scaling in ECUFlash. But it did take getting a couple tables right to work and reduced peak. But I wanted to be able to achieve 0. Now I have the ER Oil pump gear also and gained back 2deg from the lost 3.75. But with this I could have been near OEM position with both conditions and no ECU adjustments (of which now Ive had to walk a few people through and usually have to relearn since I forget things in my elderly age :lol: )

So, is this offset correct or do you think something is wrong? Going to keep thinking about it here also.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...75eb1be23f.jpg

I have the cam caps from "that guy" that moved my cam sensor inboard due to the tubular manifold but they also have a degree adjustment slot in them - is that achieving the same thing? Not to mention looking better, o rings, no more RTV, etc. I think Austin has beta units already. If not whats the advantage of keeping the OEM cap and doing it on the gear instead?