I have never applied oil on my air filters. I never understood what that was about

I'm using the amsoil/injen dry filter Injen AMSOIL Part # X-1018-BB

This classic thread tested the old metal frame amsoil filter. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html

ahh that may indeed be the one I used to use, with metal top yea.

I see this a PSA to point out that used exhaust manifolds will have a degree of warpage. Machining them flat on both mating surfaces is a service that a machine shop can provide and provides better sealing.

Many people might wonder why they still have an exhaust leak even though the bolts and nuts are as tight as possible. The gaskets help mask the issue but parts will warp due to heat cycles and fatigue.

Turbo hotsides might show similar warpage. I was thinking about making fixtures to hold exhaust components so that they can be resurfaced like cylinder heads. Apply the blue dychem on the surface and take it through each pass to get it flat.

One thing to consider also would be that the material would likely change as it heats up so doing an in depth analysis to this accuracy when the material is dead cold is probably pointless.

4 bolt turbo collectors are known to warp etc and if you get en exhaust leak it will track and make the low spot worse. definitely worth putting those in a mill every once in a while but better still cut them off and V band

New gasket is important, torquing from middle out is more important. I've had manifolds that were visibly not flat against the head seal up fine. They usually warp exactly how you see it in that one Dallas, the very center bolt is the high spot, and the manifold will bend in to the head as you torque it from center outward.

The turbo flange does need to be pretty flat though.

Some new stuff coming along. Expect to see a big release around the holidays next month :)

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6478dc947e.jpg

i actually have a feeling this is where my exhaust leak is coming from, even though mine is just an OEM that fp coated & ported.

The racefab one is different, I just used the trans/diff plug because it has the magnet.

Good find. The X-1018-BB isn't an exact 1:1 copy of the old Amsoil filter because it's missing the additional filter media in the top, but it looks like a good filter anyway.

Rollcage going in for me at the moment. Too fast now without one. Keeping it simple, not too many bars for now (I can always add later).
Low side intrusion for ease of use.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...b75af3b537.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...162cb38e73.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...75e62f66aa.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...28e58760c3.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...0e81ceb31a.jpg

a friend of mine was gushing over the future of electric awd systems (motor at each wheel, no lsds) and how that is superior to let's say a traditional awd system - t-case/center diff, front and rear lsds. for ease of discussion let's say a mechanical lsds. comparing a 400hp (100hp/wheel motor) electric and 400hp ice awd - aren't mechanical cars capable of sending more than 100hp to a single wheel, depending on torque distribution? I think there are also stability improvements in having the wheels mechanically linked, vs. motors mimicking the speed differences per wheel, especially when it comes to braking. this is aside from things like charging speed, heat, reliability, instant torque, management, etc.

Yeah, absolutely. This is what I have to keep telling people about the tesla as well. Its not AWD, its simultaneously FWD and RWD. With any slip at one end the best you can do is reduce power.

With a proper AWD system, you cant transfer the torque capacity of a given diff to the opposing axle. Its also why I run a 90-100ft-lb preload rear diff, with a tire in the air I can transfer that much torque to the outside wheel and gain that thrust vector pushing outside of the COG.

The issue with Electric motors is of course you cant pull power from one motor and send it to another. Well, at least thats not what is being done. Hypothetically the batteries could output the power, but can the controller and motors handle an over powered situation. So corner exit, low grip times, etc.. All those can only reduce total power output.

Maybe a bank of super capasitors could be discharged to an outer rear motor in wheel if the steering angle reaches a point. Just a thought.

Cars with 4 individual motors (like rimac nevera) can do whatever they like... brake individual wheels while accelerating others...
we did some work with them at some point, using a EUDM evo 9 with ayc and acd to try to explain to their engineers how those systems work, as they were developing their 4 wheel thrust vectoring. One thing I noticed was that those guys were hell bent on using their wheel moment based system, where they would calculate the max available traction on each wheel and use that to control the power to each wheel. I was trying to explain that above certain slip angle, i.e. when the car starts to slide, they should start to control the difference in wheel speeds too... Luckily their chief development driver is a car guy and top notch drift driver and he probably beat them into listening to him instead of their theories as the car seems to drive great now..