The easiest way to do it is put the belt on. Then you now disregard the timing mark on the cogged part of the gear, and instead line up the timing mark on the center portion with the mark on the valve cover.

What Sean said, once timing offsets are involved the timing mark on the cogs are wrong. You care where the center is pointed. Think about what moves relative to the cam and that should be pointed to the valve cover mark.

JDM 9 valve cover does have a different pcv set up on the back with a different sized hole in the cover so you would need the jdm pcv too, unless you modify it to run an lines. STM sells the JDM cover too but they want $600 LOL. I love STM but I find myself going elsewhere more and more lately for oem parts because of their pricing.

ok yup. just wondering if 1/2 tooth is the goal for initial setting. i wanted to put loctite on the bolts. will get back to this later tonight. thanks

thanks. yeah i will drill it also for the AN fittings

short answer is no, that is wrong. you have 8° of advance dialed in there and the cam gear is in the wrong spot where you won't be able to get the belt on.

ok. i dont think it would line up with the marks using the gear stopper anymore so the cam gears looks advanced? I will have to turn them with the belt and see

Where the mark is on the outer gear doesn't (really) matter. As long as there's enough adjustment for the middle part to line up with the timing mark on the valve cover. You can get the outer gear "close" for your sanity, but it really doesn't matter.

ok i think i got it. hard to trust the timing marks :(. so "+4 degree crank" = +2 degree cam

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5829dd8846.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...18655901e0.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...3b85e2059c.jpg

Looks close enough. Hard to tell since the photos aren't straight on angle.

Now with tinted windows. Will prob try and order a seibon wingless trunk lid or an equivalent so I have a more stealthy trunk. Swap in oe arms with poly bushes and perhaps 2k less springs so I can drive this car. Else it's a track weapon that never sees the track and therefore is never used.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...8dee14b39f.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...2436d157b1.jpg

Where are you going for parts exactly? I've checked Amayama and the list price is way cheaper, then when you check out and calculate shipping it's so expensive it makes up for the difference. You can't find new oem parts for much less than stm. The only thing overpriced is their small stuff. Screws, clips ect..

600 is honestly cheap for a new mg valve cover and youl be lucky to even find one new at all when it's discontinued. You need to pay to play especially when a car is 20 years old.

I hear you man, thinking about the discontinued oem parts I might need in the future gives me anxiety lol. Sometimes I do end up ordering from STM or MAP because there isn't any cheaper options or is a hard to find piece, but just a couple weeks ago I called my local Mitsu dealer and ordered a new 9 front bumper and the mesh pieces for about $100 cheaper than what STM is asking, and if you count shipping from STM its closer to $400 saved. The parts that are not discontinued yet are typically cheaper directly from the source.

any stock or stock frame turbo guys running the artec exhaust manifold on here?

https://artecperformance.com/product...41877671903404

Turbo arrived. Anyone know what this grinding is about? And if the wear on that one fin is ok? Oddly enough they said the Z is an error, and that this turbo should read 71HTA (not 71HTZ)

Confirmed all normal with FP, curious about the 71HTZ read, but whatever.