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with Dallas's rear trailing arms + rear bumper tab modification, can we fit an 18x10 +40 square?
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
(Post 11983171)
Is that kit able to check at different duty cycles?
yes, different rpm, pulse width.... no matter, every time the same injectors are off... This is almost 7% difference... looks like two sets of injectors really.. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...aee3ea1a9f.jpg |
Guessing stock ECU doesn't have any tuning paths for per-cyl trims? That data would be good for standalone setups.
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Originally Posted by kyoo
(Post 11983178)
with Dallas's rear trailing arms + rear bumper tab modification, can we fit an 18x10 +40 square?
Up front you'll want spacers to clear the brakes. |
If you've rotated them through different combinations of position and wire and the results consistently follow the injector, I'd assume the results are correct.
How do you like that cheap injector tester? I have a local shop that will clean and test a set of 4 injectors for just under $100. Having the machine in my garage for $300 sounds appealing, other than letting it collect dust most of the year. |
Originally Posted by Dallas J
(Post 11983186)
Guessing stock ECU doesn't have any tuning paths for per-cyl trims? That data would be good for standalone setups.
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Originally Posted by Construct
(Post 11983188)
If you've rotated them through different combinations of position and wire and the results consistently follow the injector, I'd assume the results are correct.
How do you like that cheap injector tester? I have a local shop that will clean and test a set of 4 injectors for just under $100. Having the machine in my garage for $300 sounds appealing, other than letting it collect dust most of the year. It probably unusable for detailed flow mapping (might be upgraded with better pressure regulator and better injector drivers) but for cleaning and basic testing I think it is money well spent. I also invested in proper testing fluid. I am biased tho, like to buy tools.. haha |
Originally Posted by kikiturbo
anyone ever do some injector testing?
I just bought one of those cheap injector cleaning and testing machines and decide to try it on several sets of injectors I had lying around.. After getting to know it a bit I threw in a set of ASNU 1000 injectors from I friends evo 9 that I am rebuilding and found that one injector was reading about 10 % higher... After some cleaning got other 3 to be within 2% of each other but one was still 10% higher... Luckily I had a brand new set of the identical ASNU 1000 lying around... so wanted to use that.. but decided to test those too.... and would you guess what.. all 4 were all over the place with one again 10% higher... Now, I do not think it is the machine problem as it does not matter which trigger lead is connected to which injector or what their position on the rail is.. I have tried.. I was always happy with asnu but this is worrying me a bit.. Just to add.. the car did want to idle on 3 cyl lately, which could be caused by that rich injector.. |
Originally Posted by LetsGetThisDone
(Post 11983228)
What fuel pump is the test bench using? Most of them don't come with a big enough pump for even 1000cc injectors if you're running all 4 at once.
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Originally Posted by kikiturbo
they are sequentially fired and the fuel pressure doesnt fluctuate too much... might upgrade it to 255 warlbro later..
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Sorry to rehash this but I'm pulling in some discussion from another thread:
I currently/have run 265/35-18s on a 18x9.5 +28 with no issues with rubbing etc - just rolled rear fenders. If I'm looking to jump to an 18x10.5 +22 (offset not my choice) on 285/30-18s, what more should be done? SSB rear trailing arm, maybe some pulling of the rear fender, and relocating the bumper tab - would that do it? And for the front, what do I need to do for clearance? Would I have to run a spacer? roll the front fenders? SSB front arms too? I've currently got caster plates + the WL bushing in the arm to keep the front wheel centered. I'm on relatively soft 8k/12k spring rates too so the body of the car is gonna move, but I also run the car a little higher than most. So frustrating how much body work is needed with to keep up with modern cars. @Vicious LSD |
285/30 is sorter. so check how much room you have going inwards. and find the offset that gives you the maximum you can go inwards. get a higher offset wheel (30-40) so you can use spacers(washers) to tweak.
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
(Post 11983270)
285/30 is sorter. so check how much room you have going inwards. and find the offset that gives you the maximum you can go inwards. get a higher offset wheel (30-40) so you can use spacers(washers) to tweak.
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Originally Posted by kyoo
(Post 11983272)
problem is the only wheel I like only comes in 18x10 +40 or 18x10.5 +22. the latter will at least keep the wheel father away from the suspension in the front. to get ssb rear arms at some point. is it just gonna require a massive amount of pulling in curb the front and rear? I've got a body ship but I trust but worried about how much damage we'll be doing to a relatively clean body
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...0df4b0a05c.jpg |
Originally Posted by kyoo
(Post 11983272)
problem is the only wheel I like only comes in 18x10 +40 or 18x10.5 +22. the latter will at least keep the wheel father away from the suspension in the front. to get ssb rear arms at some point. is it just gonna require a massive amount of pulling in curb the front and rear? I've got a body ship but I trust but worried about how much damage we'll be doing to a relatively clean body
this is a 10.5” +25 with 285/30/18 Nankang. It’s pretty tight on the body with +25 |
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