Ive never stripped the shafts off a stock synchro box itself. Ive had a stock box apart plenty of times its really quite basic. I guess if u did wana strip it down just take lots of photos and make sure u put everything in order of how u removed it and then u just reverse it when u put it together.

Ive stripped my dogboxes plenty of times they are simple but alot less bits too i guess. Engines are more complex than trannys IMO

::likely a coincidental sensor fail - will find out this weekend

test drove the evo after egr sandwich install and...

afr gauge seems busted. it's just bouncing around between 14.7-14.9, even when i'm off throttle in gear (car should go lean) give it some throttle (should richen up). it even bounces between 14.7-14.9 when the car is off but accessories are on.

no other changes between that from getting that installed and dc'ing and reconnecting the battery & uicp, the former of which i've done dozens of times. what gives? seems like one hell of a coincidence:

Def a problem with a the wideband. You either somehow disturbed some of the wiring for it (like the ground is now meh) or the sensor went bad. Key on engine off it should eventually peg lean.

Those sensors definitely do go bad occasionally.

Dallas- The trans isn't scary. Nothing "falls out" when you're taking it apart (except for TRE's first gear idler bearing, but that's not a big deal) so it's pretty easy to account for everything. If you can do an engine you can do a trans. The most annoying thing is measuring the shims needed for proper bearing preload by using solder. That seems to take me 10 tries to get right every time lol. But you only have to do that if you replaced a bearing or something in the gear stack that takes up space.

thanks sean - i think it's the o2 sensor, and it actually may have happened during the autox over the weekend - ordered a new sensor, will install this weekend

That tranny....drool

Well. I just got a new summer project for myself - front control arm! fix. Two bolts that hold the sway bar end link bracket both snapped off when taking the bracket off! Those were supposed to be hardened bolts (by its OEM stamp), but didn't look that way at all. Now, one is all the way in, while the other started to come up. What to do here?
Options:

1. attempt to take those out with option to try it while on the car or take the arm out and do it on the bench.
2. get a new arm - this one is interesting. Dealer wants over $600 for it. E-bay has some and prices are running from $100 to $250.

So, this piece looks like hard aluminum and one thing I don't know is whether it would loose any hardness if heated up. I am thinking heat would be the best bet to help loosen the connection between the aluminum thread and steel bolt, but I am not sure for any side effects from the heat.

Anyone done anything like this before for some more info/ideas?

Thanks guys!

Here are the pictures:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...29739a2026.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...2cf6041afc.jpg
This second picture was taken before I broke top bolt, so it is almost flashed with the bottom of the bar

Rost off (wurth) and vice grips? Looks like you luckily have quite a bit of meat there to grab.

I think there is some left to work with....the main question is still whether heat will affect Al as it would treated steel?

I have an X arm from when I made the billet version, I can check if its the same side. Can probably ship that out for $75 if the right one.

That would be a blessing!

Do you know if heat would affect that aluminum in any way?

Fedja

I would def not heat up a forged aluminum arm.

You could drill and install helicoils, or just replace the arm. New arm is the easy button if you can find one in the $100-150 range.

There are some on E-bay, but big round bushings at the end are questionable. Is that part serviceable? Could we just replace it with the new that is the same type?

You can OEM replacements that are polyurethane. Not sure if that's legal in your autocross class though.

Fedja- we should be able to weld a nut to that and extract it. Usually the heat from welding helps to break the seize and then you have something nice to grab onto with a wrench. If you want to pop off the arm and swing down lemme know!

EDIT: I know you have reservations about heat but Im not sure the focused heat from welding will do much of anything to compromise the structure of the arm. I think a quick zap and the heat will be focused on the fastener. Now, torching it on the other hand I personally in this case wouldnt love the idea but a quick hit with the welder should be fine IMO. I used this method to extract snapped exhaust manifold studs in my truck with AL heads.

Yup, that would not make it legal for Street class...