I've been having a hard time finding used OE ones in good condition. If I find any though, I'll definitely be replacing all the bushings and ball joints.

There was a guy on FB selling every rear arm that Racefab makes that I really wanted but I can't get a hold of him. So I may just end up with Hardrace stuff.

What ever you get, its absolutely critical it has a spherical at each end like OEM and not urethane like most the cheap aftermarket arms. That A) Not an upgrade, and B) Can break the ears off the upright

This is the information I came for. Thank you. Been seeing every bushing under the sun on STM wondering how this works vs OE. Aren't all 3 in the lower camber arm spherical?

There's so many evo classifieds on FB marketplace. I scoop up what I can when I can. Parts go fast but also there's a lot of just garbage sellers on there not worth the effort.

I was unawares of the aluminum suspension arms cracking along the casts. I'll have to give mine a close inspection.

The shock bushing is not spherical. You need that bushing solid to control the rotation of the arm or it can flop around. Basically any arm thats not a two force member (like the toe arm) needs to have one joint control the clocking. Its why we use a urethane bushing on the trailing arm instead of a spherical.

car held up well this weekend, thankfully! finally podium'ed with what was not a great lap, but happy with how everything turned out.

Satisfying isn't it ;)

Ran this weekend in the crazy heat on old-ish tires. We dual drove and ground temps were 120deg (air temps 105 in the shade). Been getting oil light flicker more and more when oil gets hot. On fresh redline 10w40 so going to bump it up to 15w50 to hold me over for the Packwood Tour/Pro and also replace the oil pressure sensor just in case. But its been 3 years so its time for a fresh front case. Been holding out to swap it till I got new ECU and can get Mikes new externally regulated wet sump setup he's been working on.

Managed 2nd Pax both days within a few tenths of Ron Bauer in his stupid SS 2021 GT4 on the Yoko-kang setup (Yoko front, nankang rear). Sticker tires will bridge that gap for Tour and right now I think its looking to be a battle between a handful for Top pax but I will definitely be in the mix.

Wife is saying to just get a new front case and swap it before Tour... but thats not an insignificant amount of work. Not hard, but just a lot to pull apart I dont want to do right now :lol:

so i got the blitz fin & tube FMIC when i was still pretty focused on autox - now that i'm on track, i think the bar and plate cooling would be worth it over the fin & tube.. are all the aftermarket 3" cores pretty much the same? just looking to grab maybe an ETS one or something

About all I know is Bar & Plate is heavier with more thermal mass but also more heat to shed and less air flow through it. That last part is a "IIRC", I might be remembering wrong but I think their is less area to flow on them.

Plus you run pretty moderate power (not high power) so I would focus more on making sure the core is sealed to the bumper with foam so air must go through it.

Keep the fin and tube. I moved from a bar and plate to a greddy fin and tube and it worked much better on track for me! Lower MAT and Oil Temps. Also much lighter.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...68ae6314d2.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...f1e8b99930.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...ff0fcfa5c4.png

That's a good tip with the foam, thanks{thumbup}

haha didn't even know greddy was still around.

i guess that's it as far as cooling for me then. i've got the csf radiator and fan too.

I bought it a couple of years ago but yea, I did a bunch of research and they were the best as far as cooling and weight combo. I was surprised because I never was impressed with other Greddy products. I had to order from Japan and it took about a month. Of course, I then went two wheels off course the very next event that took out my front lip and put a big dent in the bottom of the intercooler. Luckily it didn't compromise the core.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...6eb3944075.jpg

Was your new T&F one thicker than the B&P? Hard to tell from the photo.

Dimensions of the two. Greddy is almost a half inch thicker but more than inch shorter. Greddy has more cubic inches while still being lighter.

Greddy
20.66” long
11.81” high
3.93” thick
958.9 in³

AGP
20” long
13” high
3.5” thick
910 in³