No biggie. I got a degree in Electronics but they never covered automotive stuff lol

i just received the fuse - do I screw this under the positive terminal adapter? or the actual wingnut, i guess as you mentioned. no additional nut came with it so I'll need to find something that attaches to the stud on this guy.

Replace the wing nut with a regular nut and bolt and screw to the fuse. In your picture there is the original fuse block see if theres a nut on there. It will be a standard m6 nut i assume anyway. The battery post piece will be M8.

googled pic
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...f3baac5e93.jpg

probably an m8 nut but your battery clamp looks like SAE. you can use the wing nut if you can tighten it. move your red cable to the "blue post" with higher amperage rating. these could be m6

This is what I received, and what's currently installed. I can mount the fuse to the terminal using the wingnut, but how do i mount the cable to the fuse? The cable seems a little too big for the fuse's stud, if that's what I am to do.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...b070a6624c.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5e999e02c5.jpg

That's all there is to it. you can add steel washers to increase the contact surface if you want

ahh - you mean connect the fuse stud to the terminal mount, and the red cable to the flat, circular part on the fuse?

well no, but it will work in either direction (if you can actually install it backwards). I thought you said the cable terminal is too big... some washers can be used to sandwich the terminal, if I understand your concern

the red cable's copper connector is 2cm wide, vs opening for the fuse's stud being 1.3cm wide - so you're saying stack washers until it reaches a height that the connector can just sit on top of the washers?

Connect 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. If the terminal lug hole is too big i wouldnt worry about it just put a washer on either side of the terminal lug before you screw it down. when your free swing by an auto sparky and ask them to crimp a new lug on thats the right size will cost ya $5 and 5min of their time.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...1946d22c9d.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...e1e376ef31.jpg

This is what I mean - thanks for the pic - (1) on the fuse is too small for (1) on the cable (i realize I took a pic of the negative terminal, pos and neg are the same size). it physically won't fit.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...fc5ef2a604.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...9f709a2ba9.jpg

:lol:
I would probably use this for my batt reloc, I just like corners
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-L...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

you can trim the plastic to the right of the stud (in that pic) OR trim the copper terminal. I get your stacking washers idea. that works too

i was kind of leaning towards trimming the black plastic with a dremel or something actually, so that should work! thanks

I actually skip all of that battery top parts due to the "little things" that come with it. Back when I was building the cage and doing this relocation in a pinch we got this from best buy:

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rffdagu/

It's a topic of conversation at every track day when people look in the engine bay and see this "sound system piece" lol where all of the positive connections come in (old front battery location).