that works. My template uses a set screw to center a stainless shield on the pinch gap at the bottom of the knuckle. I cover the outside of the sheet metal with gold tape.
The ABS shield bolts on IIRC

Ebay or Rockauto for ABS sensors. I've done all 4 at around $20/corner. Only issue I've had was the sensor itself being too long on the metal tip causing air gaps on the tone right to be too tight (should be somewhere around the thickness of a credit card). Quick minute with a file fixes that. Well worth the $800+ saved not buying new OEM.

I heard about the filing down thing. I guess my only concern is reliability/longevity. The rear uprights block the abs sensors, and I haven't looked if I can get behind it to remove the arm portion to swap a sensor, or if I will need to pull things apart to do so

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ed+sensor,1912

a lot of sensors on this list. if you look under standard replacements, the rears climb in price quite a bit, WVE being the first option. May go that route.

the tool is too thick and squishing the boots? all the the tools posted earlier wont have that issue.
you could probably inject grease thru where its coming out from

I think I saw this awhile back. do those tapes really work?
mine uses the balljoint nut and caliper bolt.

I know you already bought them, but shameless plug here, this is a great example of why I sell the rear alignment lockouts. With Dallas' adjustable toe arm and my lockout kit you can remove the arm, unbolt the section that covers the sensor, replace the sensor and put everything back without changing the alignment since everything is going back into the same place (as long as the arm length isn't changed).

I don't see a concern about longevity. All these sensors are is a small electromagnet. Just a winding of fine copper around a steel rod. There's nothing in them that moves or wears down over time.

FWIW, the ABS sensor gap isnt too critical. My first batch of uprights (the ones I paid to have machined) I miss-measured the spacing accidentally getting the gap of the clearance hole and not the bearing bore and was off by 0.060". The tone ring ended up just filing down the tip on its own so the gap was pretty much 0. Then I made a shim for people to fix that and it now right by my sensor was "ground down". Neither situation gave me a ABS warning light. Still have the same sensors on my car and on a 4th version of uprights (Prototypes, V1, Radial, V2)

i dont think it's a matter of thickness though? no matter how thick it is, eventually it presses up against the bushing and spindle until it gets forced out. obviously the bushing is squeezed when that happens.

how do i add more grease? should i use something like this? or do i need something with a needle? car is at a friends, i can't look at it closely at the moment. i have some bearing/cv grease, i assume it's the same stuff.

re: the sensors, i assume there's some kind of quality difference between a 40 dollar piece and a 240 dollar piece.

re: dallas's msg on it being ground down on the car, that is interesting. i'd prob take a file to it if it was too long anyway just to add a little space there.

not sure if youre talking about the balljoint or bushing. the thinner separators dont squish the boots
you cant get this from autozone

yea the boots, sorry. i see though, this part has a cut out to preserve the boot a little better.

The balljoint separator should not be squeezing the boots. You need to push the boot out of the way. Any generic balljoint grease will be fine. The boot is just retained by friction, you can pry them off with a flathead screw driver and toss more grease in, they don't need a ton either. The bottom of the boot has a steel reinforcement ring to pry on to keep from tearing the boot.

still no bueno, especially if you want to use it for other cars. you can see in this pic why the thickness is a problem. the HF one is super thin
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...ea8a0b6f05.jpg

yep i just looked, we were using the tool wrong, putting it between the bushing and the spindle and forcing it apart, rather than against the bolt and spindle. we were expanding it out, not squeezing.

Works great. I'll get some pictures today.

BTW this guy is going to lose a flashlight once he pops the balljoint loose lol