Originally Posted by ViciousLSD (Post 11948705)

wont that bracket you just grounded be right on that spot? time for a new solution, is all

Originally Posted by bee-raddd (Post 11948706)

you could make up a spacer to space the brackets out so they clear the middle. or cut down the shape of the ducting so it clears but you will weaken them this way.

I found the girodisc material to be quite soft and you go through the disc thickness quite fast. Doesnt compare to a proper motorsport rotor like an AP racing rotor for example.

Optimal brake temps vary depending on what pads etc you have and their working range.

Pretty much what happens is each brake application the brake temp spikes. and then as you accelerate etc the temp comes back down. and then you brake again and it spikes again. without proper cooling to bring them back down between brake applications each spike increases the temp more and more. for example if you dont have sufficient cooling for ur brakes it will go like this: first application brake temp peaks at 500deg then comes back down to say 200deg but then you brake again and temp peaks at 700 the second time. and then only falls down to 400deg. and then you brake again and peak temp is now 900deg.

Obviously various things can affect this like the circuit layout, power level of car, weight of car, strength of braking system, ambient temperature, raining or not etc.

Generally you can get away with the temp constantly increasing if your only doing short runs but at some point you will hit boiling point of your fluid and then get brake fade.

I would also advise cooling for brakes because the more you keep the temps under control the more life you get from your wheel bearings and wheelspeed sensors etc. as they arent subjected to massive heat and spikes in temperature as much.


Best thing to do would be get your local brake supplier to paint mark your calipers and discs with their temp stickers or temperature sensitive paint and see what sort of temp your brakes are getting up to this will tell you if you need more or less ducting.

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11948707)

I do have a design for a 2.5" duct, I just havent been able to get it made at any reasonable price unfortunately. Its a bit complicated of a fit and keeping clearance to the Axle. Almost wondering if a 3D printed ASA or CF Nylon would work there.

Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11948721)

is there a special trick to getting the camber bolt out of the toe arm?

Originally Posted by Meathooker (Post 11948724)

is that the part we made a sample of years ago?

Originally Posted by kaj (Post 11948588)

Funny: I started out as an engineering student. I think all of here are like minded in that way, which is why we are still here.

Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11948594)

obviously, not me, lmao banking/finance/econ/capital markets whooooo

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11948725)

Yeah, if you recall we weren't able to get them made right and they were quite the pain for your fab guy. Partly my fault, I should have made a welding fixture to locate the mounting holes and tabs relative to each other and give the right angle position on the tube.

Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11948733)

also, fwiw - the brakes. the pads line up probably off by a millimeter, stock brakes were dead on but that's why stock is stock. nice meaty pad on there now though:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...1e7bd1538c.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...4cd02829a1.jpg

Originally Posted by Balrok (Post 11948754)

You didn't put the brake duct between the caliper bracket and the upright correct?

Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11948727)

Originally Posted by kyoo (Post 11948763)

correct, that is for the relocated battery. should I poke a hole in it? I don't really drive the car in rain and snow.