Rule of thumb for our cars is that you will use 30% more e85 than pump gas. So, you can do the math from there to see if it's worth it. Or take a 5gal fuel container or two.

I have a bbk full with s2 cams and I get around 14mpg just driving around with a 30psi pull out of boredom here and there. With a 25 minute track session I use over half a tank at 24psi.
Buy some fuel containers.

Yup for vacuum state. For positive pressures, that catch can near the PCV wont be efficient unless you vent it to the intake as well, with an inline check valve so your pcv still works

Any thoughts or knowledge on which style axle boot clamps can create the most clamping force?

The ones I used when rebuilding an axle this winter leaked at the inner big end slinging grease onto the block causing me to park the car for Sunday. I may have not done it tight enough, my boot could just be to old to seal, or theres the “right” and “wrong” clamp types.

my gut says to re-do the clamp extra tight and bring a hose clamp as a temp backup for next event.

I bought the tool to do OEM style clamps. It's been holding for about three years, now. That was with a new boot, though.

Which tool did you end up getting?

I sell a lot of these boot clamp pliers:

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...amp-pliers-163

Matched with precision/moog boot clamps:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-3416

that’s the larger size clamp on the cv cup. I believe part no is 3415 is the smaller axle shaft end. It ain’t the large orange oe style zip tie but I’d imagine these make a tighter seal.

I'll look it up tomorrow. I remember it pulls tension then cuts a tab to be folded under. Worked great.

Edit: found it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IH45ZK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I use the standard clamps and then i twist lockwire around them also next to the clamp to get that last bit of sealing. Doesnt spit grease anymore.

Do you mean twist like a twist tie on a garbage bag, or snugging it up with safety wire spinning pliers?

Na i lock them up with lockwire pliers same as if your lockwiring 2 bolts together. you can see the rubber pinch up just watch it and dont pull it so tight it tears thru the rubber but youll see it compress

I've used both of those tools and still can't get the meaty clamp on the outboard rear driver to not sling grease. I need something idiot proof.

Permatex black (just one side)

Are there any common oil leak spots under the timing cover? I assume a leak from the top (valve cover gasket, cam seal) would cover anything and everything. Hard to locate anything when it's all dirty. I see the engine support bracket bolts require thread sealant.

Regardless it's so bad in there that I'm going to remove all timing components and clean, replace belt. FSM says no solvents so can I just use soapy water?

Is it correct that the oem 9 belt is kevlar and will fit an 8? looking for something better than the Gates in there currently.

Theres 3 places Ive run into for leaks. First one you mentioned, only one of the holes can leak but I dont recall which. Its drilled just slightly into an oil passage, internet search will probably tell you which one. Ive had a leak also at the cap for the balance shaft/oil pump gear nut. The o-ring dried out and was hard and brittle. I replaced with a viton o-ring from McMcaster. Now I have enough to last me about 1000 years :lol:

Last one was stupid me, I forgot to tighten the oil pump gear nut once I had the timing belt on. Oil leaked right past the nut. Luckily I found that one pretty quick.