Very weird alternator issue.

Both Phouvahn and I are missing all 4 of the body screws. I pulled my alt apart and found the coil has a broken wire where it connects to the regulator. Guessing as the housing got loose it was just able to vibrate long enough to eventually snap a wire.

Anyone else care to check if they have all their bolts present?

ohh I've read about this issue here before. will check mine

Huh, first I've heard of that one. Will double check mine when I put the new engine in.

LOL I actually posted about it

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...bly-bolts.html

Lol, you forgot it was you that posted it? :lol:

I've never even heard of it. Phouvahn was missing some but others were loose. Mine were all gone. Gonna hit the new one with loctite for sure.

LOL yeah. My head is out of memory space

F*ing bolts on this thing. Ima just start welding stuff lol.

I have found the AC Delco ones from Rock Auto to be reliable, good quality remans.

This is a common occurrence with BS deleted built engines and revving at or over 8000. When you get the new alt, take the bolts out one at a time and reinstall with red lcotite.

mine came loose before BS delete. definitely after 2 urethane mounts.
I just gave it some max tightening effort. will try to revisit tonight

​​​​​​​hell yeah thanks man

bolts are all there after tightening (no loctite). maybe 10k miles with autox and track after the BS delete

Yep, happened here too and just noticed we were missing a bolt in the replacement alternator.

Exhaust cam seal was def bad. Could see oil pooling on the bottom side of the seal and backside of the cam gear.

Any chance I can change this seal without special tool MD998713? or without removing cam caps? I should just put cams in this thing and be done with it. Getting antsy now after a few months.

Winter cleaning is well under way for me. I know a few people have asked questions regarding my aero floors and i had them off the car for a clean so snapped some pictures for those who are curious. These connect directly to the front splitter at the front and rear diffuser at the rear with the only cut out areas for the wheel wells and exhaust.

If you look closely you can see the ram air inlet air scoop and "exhaust" side for the transfer case to blow cool air over transfer case to cool it and a titanium heat shield to shield the transfer case from the exhaust heat. behind these scoops is the portion of the floor that covers the driveshaft so only the exhaust is exposed in the tunnel area to keep heat down. At the back of the main floor youll see duct pick ups which attaches to hoses that go to the rear brakes and rear diff for cooling. the holes in the main floor at the front are for the air jacks and the one hole in the back side is for the dry sump tank drain. the side skirts also have ducts to pull air out from the back of the front wheel well.

The whole assembly weighs less than 20kg.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...46979109fe.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...0b6a1553d7.jpg

I enjoy the low-key "I'll just put an R34 in the background" picture. :D
I think we all want to do flat bottoms but then realize how much work it is. :lol: