Originally Posted by Ayoustin (Post 11971346)

You are more than welcome to keep the balance shafts in your engine, they have their place especially if the car is just a daily driver, but don't go spreading false information and telling people blatantly wrong information by saying that they will damage their engine by removing the balance shafts.

Originally Posted by RallySport9

You make valid and true points, and for a car not doing many miles/track, drag only. I myself would feel comfortable driving without them. I'm not saying it's gona destroy your car immediately. I just don't believe it's false to say that secondary vibrations cause other long term issues. How is that possible? If the vibration is enough to back out bolts, that's pretty significant.

Originally Posted by Spooled_IX (Post 11971356)

I just picked up a used Tanabe 2.75" DP, Ultimate Racing 3" HFC and a AEM X-series WB. The car already has a Blitz FMIC, Nisei LICP and HKS Super Turbo CBE and I need to find a way to get a Grimmspeed 3-port BCS and OmniPower 3-bar MAP sensor to CA so I can start tuning it(CA bans sales of certain motorsports products that are deemed to violate smog laws). I'm sort of following an FQ360+ build sheet so I'm hoping to get about 300whp/300wtq on 91 with all of these mods. I've driven a stock Evo 9 for 2 and a half years and it's time for some more power and response. You guys think this is doable on 91 and stock injectors?

Originally Posted by Construct (Post 11971386)

These cars are fun with the stock turbo uncorked.

Originally Posted by TimC909 (Post 11971439)

What HG are you using now? I quite like the look of the SCE Vulcan Cut-Ring gasket but not seen much feedback from it on the 4G63.

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11971442)

Isn’t there issues to be solved with the deck being not stiff enough to tolerate more torque from bigger head studs?

Originally Posted by Bee-Raddd

has anybody toyed around with upgrading to 1/2 head studs rather than going down the o ring route? or if youve gone down the o ring route have any of you done the head side rather than the block side?

If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?

Originally Posted by Bee-Raddd (Post 11971438)

has anybody toyed around with upgrading to 1/2 head studs rather than going down the o ring route? or if youve gone down the o ring route have any of you done the head side rather than the block side?

If you have L19 studs how far have you pushed them?

Originally Posted by Dallas J (Post 11971442)

Isn’t there issues to be solved with the deck being not stiff enough to tolerate more torque from bigger head studs?

Originally Posted by LetsGetThisDone (Post 11971455)

Just oring it. 1/2" head studs are a headache for 1000whp+

Block or head, take your pick. It's all works well. L19's torqued to 100ftlbs with the oversized nut and .9" washers and oring will hold a lot.

Originally Posted by Ayoustin (Post 11971466)

Oversized head studs aren't worth the effort. Grab some 625+ studs and call it a day. With o-rings those will hold 1000+.

I generally avoid L19 just because of how corrosion prone the material is. It's a fairly exotic tool steel and when tool steels like it corrode they form weak points in the corrosion and the material doesn't stretch, it snaps.




Depends on who you talk to. The deck on a 4G block isn't crazy thick but still thicker than most. But clamping force is clamping force, whether you get it from stronger materials or larger fasteners, they both deform the deck after a certain point. The bigger issue than block deck thickness is how deep, or not deep, the studs thread into the block. The threads aren't that far below the surface of the deck which forces the deck to deform more easily. If you look at most modern engines the fastener threads for the head fasteners are a good 4-6" below the surface of the deck and aftermarket head studs are like twice as long as 4G head studs. This is where being an iron block is advantageous because it'd be far worse if the threads were this close to the deck in an aluminum block but the principles still apply. Unfortunately I don't think the head fastener threads can be made any lower in the block without breaking into the crankcase.

I recall watching an HPA interview with an engineer who was involved with RX cars that were 4G powered and were making some insane torque at lower RPM and the only way they could keep the deck of the block from flexing was basically adding a thicker deck plate between the block and head.

Edit: here it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3wGe...ormanceAcademy

Originally Posted by RallySport9 (Post 11971355)

You make valid and true points, and for a car not doing many miles/track, drag only. I myself would feel comfortable driving without them. I'm not saying it's gona destroy your car immediately. I just don't believe it's false to say that secondary vibrations cause other long term issues. How is that possible? If the vibration is enough to back out bolts, that's pretty significant.