I'll explain why I intentionally setup a hard fuel cut rev limiter. the soft cut rev limiters have a harder timing managing the cut rpm as they have a ramp out window where they increase cut duty cycle as rpms go higher, which means you have to have the rev limiter start engaging several hundred rpm lower than your desired rpm limit, or accept turning the motor to a higher rpm than desired. For autox that means I start losing power ~5mph slower in 2nd gear than I otherwise would with a hard cut, screw that. I also won't touch ignition retard or ignition cut on a turbo car because EGT's are already pretty high and I don't want to melt stuff.

what about the momentum of drivetrain when you hit the hard limit? something does feel different... smoother if I ignore the violent explosions

its locked. I may find out if I'm stuck with/own this by Saturday. Thanks!

With a built engine, you just let it over rev. So, if you want 8k rpm, you start the soft limit at 8 and let it go to 8300. We do the same thing even on Stock rod Evo8/9's as far as the RPM numbers.

Slamming the limiter 100% adds stress to the engine. It is *why* soft limiters were developed. Some OEMs will even use the just DBW throttle as the rev limiter. Closing the throttle to limit torque and prevent further rpm change/increase. They don't even use fuel or ignition cuts.

I do a similar thing. Rev limiter set to 8200, timing drops to 0deg at 8150 and fuel cut starts to come in. Full fuel cut is set to 300 so technically wouldn't come in fully till 8450 (or is it 8500?) and timing cut is set to 1000 so it never comes into play.

I can see in the logs right when timing drops to 0, and then RPM hits about 8250 and ramps up to 8300. But Its not any power there so not too worried about the valve train.

And yeah, its all in the over run territory. I'm not making power up there, but it lets me hold a gear longer.

And its sounds way cooler than oem fuel cut limiter and doesnt bang like ignition cut :D

I like the pops n bangs tune. Lets other people around know I'm legit and have skreet cred

You got this up and running yet @RSMike ? Excited to see how you find the electronic actuator and the performance of the 7670.

also interested in the eIWG. any pics of how the linkage attaches?

I did some google, is that the full race eIWG kit?

Spring 24 project lol:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...119ebfb96b.png

Not yet, radiator core hopefully here next week. I've got most of the parts sorted, but will probably be another 4 weeks or so.

I got the full-race kit, but i've modified it to make it work with my setup.
Then i've laser cut a new mounting plate, i'll update with more info once i've got it in.

Sharing here just because I know some of us only really look here.

I ran across an error in the old common knowledge of 2.4 blocks extra 6mm deck height effect cams 1/2 tooth or 3.75deg. Since we use all them sig figs on 3.75deg it seems relevant to get the number right. Based on my model its 4.75-4.85 degrees.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11978263

I think I got myself out of this haltech stuff. Its a PITA to deal with certain tuners who just dont get tuning != drag racing where everything is above 5krpms. dyno graphs dont mean crap in autox lol. I couldnt get a smooth power curve if i WOT from 3k to redline since certain settings/features seem to be kicking in. I can look into this again later, but will anyone tune it without password protection?
I also fixed my "phantom knock" issue. I was planning to replace the knock sensor before I make an insurance claim. while struggling to remove the knock sensor I accidentally tugged the cable and it just came off the sensor. I installed the new one and my car is back to normal. jeez these "expert tuners"

Im of little help there but thats a pain having tuners lock the ECU. To me a tune is only a baseline for me to keep tweaking as needed so I would never go to someone who wants to lock it down.

Lucas at ER spent about 4 hours on the dyno getting my car dialed in and of course applied all his tricks he's learned over the years so my car runs amazing at all speeds. He did things like tuning the endurance car that has thousands of hours and even had a refer truck come to work on sub-zero cold starts with e98. Def lucky to have that relatively local resource.

You're definitely in luck. I've dealt with 5 tuners/shops in my area and had bad experience with all of them...lost paint, lost parts, lost a door(not the evo), now almost lost a car. I have to reconsider the place where i only lost paint and parts (they hate that I use TRE). I have to let some time pass before I ask about an unlocked ecu tune, they might think i'll be leaking their proprietary knowledge ugh. I think i should just spend all my upgrade money on tube frame parts and never deal with these guys again lol.

Probably cheaper to just tow the car up to ER and get it done right.

Or closer is UMS Tuning in AZ. Those guys are doing good things too.