Lol yeah pop off that cover and the two top bolts will be revealed. They're hiding behind the round thingies in the corner of the cover :beer:

yea take that plastic cover off and give it a 1 way trip to the rubbish bin haha

I ran the same set of 275 RC1s for the past 2 seasons. They wear like iron, polar opposite of a 71r in terms of wear and heat tolerance. Ultimate grip is definitely lower than the 71r.

The most I ever got my RC1s to fall off was on a day with heat index of 105F and towards the end of a 20 minute session they started to understeer a bit more.

Thanks @ayoustin . Sounds like I made the right choice.

Now I just need to make them fit properly. I already get some rubbing on the back of the front wheel wells with my 265s. I already have the MOOG LCA bushing.

I wonder if the Whiteline part pushes the wheel even further forward?

i designed a custom offset LCA spherical bushing (has ~12mm offset IIRC) that I run on my car and have zero rubbing issues running that with SSB strut tophats. Hit up Dallas to see if he'd be willing to make you a set. If he's too busy I can probably get you a set made.

Not sure if it helps, but I have a Perrin PSRS (or whatever) setup and no rubbing on the rear of front wells.

so I got to the hood latch today - I popped off the plastic cover & tried adjusting the hood latch - there really isn't a lot of movement there. I'd be stunned if I were able to get a millimeter of additional move upward. It seemed like it had more side to side wiggle room than up-down wiggle room.

I'm not too concerned about it popping off, I'm more kind of surprised how much force it takes to latch the hood down and the amount of force it pops up with when unlatching. I also did adjust down the rubber stops in the front as much as possible, but the latch still closes really tightly. Is it just something to live with?

Maybe start doing some plush-ups.


:p

Sam, something is off. Either the latch is out of adjustment, those bumpers on either side are still too far up or something with your latch striker sounds to be tweaked. Maybe even when they reinstalled your hood in order to line up the panel gaps they positioned the hood in a manor that it is favorable for gaps but not for hood engagement. You need to find what is causing it to be so stiff and knowing you and the questions that are being asked, it sounds like you have no clue lol! Go back to the body shop and have them make it right.

yea i am ordering a new latch the rest of the chassis/frame is all straight but the latch is a used one, sounds like i better get something new and try tat

I doubt the actual latch is tweaked, I meant the striker. Would not just buy a new one, generally speaking throwing money at things like this almost never solves the problem. Find the issue then rectify. I wonder if your hood, while lined up with the fenders is sitting too far forward or backwards and causing the tension on the latch? Four bolts hold the hood down, two on either side, maybe try shifting the hood forward or backwards depending on how its sitting and see if that does anything for you?

good question - i'll take a look at the hood but thought it was right where it needed to be. honestly what it feels like is the spring in the latch is too stiff.

The spring on the latch has nothing to do with it. The latch pivots and the spring's only function is to pull the latch back into its resting position.

Round 39,495. Finally got some time in the garage to mount the CAE shifter and tackled some long overdue rewiring...ugg. For awhile now as ya'll read earlier I've struggled with over-tapping relays and switches in a big mess. 7 devices on 4 switches, messes of crimped (sometimes 5 or 6 in a wire) connections. Even a hvac theromstat wire the old man had at the track once to solve a problem that just kept working. Do I go direct, do I use relays. So since the downtime continued I opted to spend a little extra to solve the problem. Enter Auto-Rod Controls, or ARC. http://www.autorod.net/Flattouchcontrols.html

They give you a nice little package that does it all with much less mess and weight. While I was sad to loose the "flip" switches I have to say the button plus "click" of the relay is just as satisfying. Lots of different options but for my needs I needed 2x of the 4gang units. Went dark to match the rest. I opted to mount the relay panels opposite the center column and it worked out well. The pics make it seem tight but from the driver seat you can hit them all without your arm really touching the shifter. Had to add "that" button (it's a blank) just for old school TFATF jokes lol, a lot of their "race words" are more drag related so you get what you get.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...01b88859e9.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5f44666a5a.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...fd27855182.jpg

If you ever want to raise the CAE shifter let me know, I can shoot you a parts list to raise it 1-3". I was happy with knob position after I raised mine an extra 3". Dash is looking good!