Just checking to see if the pinion mate to the ring gear is going to be done? You cant just install it & hope that it all mates together properly



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...321ff1ab52.gif

You can take the diff apart and put it back together with out measuring backlash, as long as you don't change anything.

A couple comments. First of all sweet build Pal! Not sure why I haven't commented prior I've checked this thread a few times and then guess I got lazy and forgot to post. Anyway glad you got the whole thing back together looks like it came out pretty awesome!

Sorry to hear about the possible xcase issue. You bought it as brand new? How much oil are you talking about? And was it indeed gear oil and not assembly lube? Assembly lube would be very tacky and really wouldnt drip out so assume it was indeed gear oil. Are you in contact with the person you bought the xcase from? Lemme know if I can assist with that; I hate seeing good guys like yourself getting screwed over!

Do you have an air compressor? If not go and buy one right meow! Cant believe you did all of that without air tools youre crazy dude!

Also, get a 3/8 and 1/4 torque wrench using the one you have with that adapter is essentially rendering the thing useless.

Other than that keep up the good work and fingers crossed you get the whine all squared away!

Correct!

This definitely the right way to do it, but I didn't have any extra shims to adjust the diff assembly or an indicator gauge. I can tell you that just from comparing it to the new (used) diff I just received, it was in bad shape!



Thanks heel2toe!{thumbup}

I guess you can say it's hand made haha. Tonight i'm going to install the rear diff into the car and go for a test drive. Crossing my fingers that it fixes the problem. If not, i'll throw in the stock TC and see what happens.

I definitely need to invest in some quality tools. Getting as far as I have without them just shows how well Mitsubishi designed this car.

Will post updates very soon!:cool:

-pal215

Great build Ron...

Which oil you use for engine , gear , transfer case and diff ?

You get a replacement rear diff from someone?

Thanks mines5!

For the engine i'm using: Valvoline VR1 20w50 conventional (for now, will switch to synthetic after 2000 miles)

Transmission: BG synchroshift II fully synthetic
Transfer case and rear diff: Mitsu Diaqueen SAE 90

Basically factory fluids except the motor oil since Mobile 1 reduced their Zinc content. Doesn't work too well for JB turbos.

Yup! I just bolted it in last night after a thorough cleaning and went for a test drive this morning. This diff has much less howling than my stock diff, but rightfully so. The gear lash on my old one was more than 1 mm, wayyy out of range according to the service manual. This was with the thicker shim pushing the ring gear into the pinion :lol:

The drive train is much quieter with this new diff, but I am sad to report that the gear binding noise is still present indicating that the transfer case is the culprit. Next week I'm going to swap in the oem transfer case and call it good.

-pal215

Do you have polyurethane rear diff mounts?

^I see some poly sitting in those billet diff mounts in his most recent diff photos so I'd assume so. Where you going with that or simply curious?

Sucks it's probably the xcase but I'll pull that out any day of the week over the trans. But on that note rear diff is way more fun than xcase, lol so I like your progression of swapping parts. Fingers crossed bud!

His "good" rear diff could still be making noise through those more solid mounts. It's not necessarily the tcase. Some stock diffs are perfectly quiet with poly mounts, some aren't. Mitsubishi did a terrible job with gear setup for these cars. I'm willing to bet the tcase is fine. I would send one of the rear diffs to TRE for the full work up and new ring/pinion.

When I first put in my TRE rear diff I did the poly mounts too and I cant say they added that much additional NVH. he could try and throw back on the stock mounts to rule that out. Side ones are an easy R&R mustache bar not so much. I mean still easy but more involved.

When did this noise first become apparent? Even if he was dinking the thing around for 1000miles the noise given it's a result of the bushings would have been known prior dont ya think?

It depends on the condition of the rear diff, and the contact/wear pattern of the gear teeth. Installing those bushings in my car made a terrible gear whine noise that even though TRE built the diff, was not resolved until we replaced the ring/pinion.

Yes, I see where you're coming from but you missed the second part of my comment. Say the condition of the diff were to blame and the noise is highlighted by the addition of the poly mounts. Unless it failed after the 1000 miles why wouldn't that have arose prior?

Because we know the rear diff was bad. 1mm of backlash is 8x what it's supposed to have lol.

Pal, drain the tcase fluid, inspect the color and smell. If it smells burnt, and looks like these pictures, and there is a bunch of metal on the magnet, the tcase is smoked. The middle pic is good diaqueen. The other two is what one of my blowed up tcase's fluid looked like...lol

Yes, the other diff was bad I agree. But even with the other diff he said he's still getting a binding noise. So where is that coming from? Perhaps its the perfect storm and the xcase is smoked as well.

Either way if he puts on the stock mounts he can eliminate that theory of yours and continue to narrow it down.

What sort or binding noise anyway? Is this in a straight line cruising or while turning? And which rear diff is in there? Stock plates, stockers rearranged Weir etc?

Oh and nice ratio rite looks minty fresh! I can barely make out what mine says these days, lol.