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Build is looking good.
Will the noise level be an issue for your track/class? A new oil pan design may help with starvation but Dry sump may inevitable with a big tire and aero. Going Dry sump is Costly but you only have to do it once. |
Originally Posted by Abacus
(Post 11864687)
Build is looking good.
Will the noise level be an issue for your track/class? A new oil pan design may help with starvation but Dry sump may inevitable with a big tire and aero. Going Dry sump is Costly but you only have to do it once. No, there's no limit on my class and all the track around here either don't have limits or the limits are pretty high. I'm not the first person to run an exhaust like this at these tracks so I'm not worried. I'm trying to avoid a dry sump at all costs. It's expensive, adds weight, adds more points for leaking or failure, it takes up more space and has more maintenance involved. I think if I do the pan properly my only concern will be aeration of the oil. |
Okay folks here it is, my new steering knuckle and front brake setup for the #fakeracecar!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...fadd2f9d3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...4e4966040.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...a2adc072c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...bfea8e386.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...205335780.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...8083028cb.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...db6a2edd3.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...3160d9c40.jpeg Custom billet aluminum knuckles made by SSB Design. 2" geometry correction, double shear tie rods with adjustable angle to dial out bumpsteer, pulls the shocks inboard to gain tire clearance, has provisions for mounting cooling ducts, sheds almost 6lbs per corner vs stock, and of course this trick radial mount caliper design. Flip through the photos and look at all the attention to detail, the machine lines, it's all gorgeous. Wilwood Aero6 radial mount calipers, beefy forged aluminum bodies, 6 stainless steel pistons, anti knockback springs, and again, a bit lighter than stock. Wilwood also offers 3 other piston size/configurations in this body so I'm always able to swap calipers to alter brake bias if needed. I'll be able to run anywhere between 12.5-14" brake rotors simply by changing out spacers between the caliper and knuckle, no change required to the caliper or pads. This gives a modular system that I can change to suit different track configurations or driving styles. Pad changes are a breeze, no more crush washers to potentially leak either. Thank you again Dallas J Cutler for making this happen and always being willing to listen to my questionable ideas and nonsense. Man I love having my cake and eating it too 😁😜 |
So much awesomeness! With those calipers and a small enough rotor any chance of fitting a 17" wheel still? Also, what's your plan for sourcing rotors?
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
(Post 11868740)
So much awesomeness! With those calipers and a small enough rotor any chance of fitting a 17" wheel still? Also, what's your plan for sourcing rotors?
As for rotors with no spacer they are made to work with stock rotors. Eventually I'll get two different sized spacers made, one to run X rotors and a larger one to run a custom 380mm rotor. |
Wow, those look great.
Originally Posted by ayoustin
(Post 11868733)
I'll be able to run anywhere between 12.5-14" brake rotors simply by changing out spacers between the caliper and knuckle, no change required to the caliper or pads
Originally Posted by ayoustin
(Post 11868747)
Eventually I'll get two different sized spacers made, one to run X rotors and a larger one to run a custom 380mm rotor.
That's the Aero6 caliper with 41/28/28mm pistons, right? If my calculations are correct, that caliper with a 355mm / 14" rotor has almost the same front/rear bias as stock. 380mm would bias about 10% to the front, equivalent running X fronts with IX rears. 380mm is a huge rotor to fit under 18" wheels. Are you planning to re-use a 380mm rotor from some other application? Is that caliper really shallow enough to fit under 18s with a 380mm rotor? |
Originally Posted by Construct
(Post 11868750)
Wow, those look great.
380mm rotor is 15", which is outside of your 12.5"-14" range. Typo? That's the Aero6 caliper with 41/28/28mm pistons, right? If my calculations are correct, that caliper with a 355mm / 14" rotor has almost the same front/rear bias as stock. 380mm would bias about 10% to the front, equivalent running X fronts with IX rears. 380mm is a huge rotor to fit under 18" wheels. Are you planning to re-use a 380mm rotor from some other application? Is that caliper really shallow enough to fit under 18s with a 380mm rotor? The 380mm will be custom 2 piece setup. A custom center hat with an off the shelf ring. According to my calculations, it will fit under some 18s but it'll be close. I'm not in a rush to find out right now though. The 380mm stuff is probably 1.5-2 years out. I don'f see myself needing massive brakes right now and the money is better spent elsewhere. |
Man that is pure art. I dig the calipers as well.
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Well, this past weekend I threw the car in HPDE for Gridlife's Midwest fest to give it a shakedown. Had to tie up the last bits friday morning which resulted in a couple missed sessions. Popped a charge coupler on the first session out. Missed the last session mending that.
Saturday morning seasion was beautiful, popped a coupler again midway thru. Rest of the day was wet as hell but super fun to play around on RC1s lol. Sunday was perfect weather almost the entire day. Car ran great but popped the ignition fuse towards the end of the day on the second to last session. Overall, I wish I could have maximized seat time better but I can't complain. The car ran without any major issues and as far as a shakedown goes, it went very well. Even in the friday heat of 80-85F I didn't see oil get over 260F which was great to see considering my cooler no longer has ducting to it. The new steering knuckles and brakes worked fantastic and are absolutely a step in the right direction. Things I need to address: - Corner exit throttle wheel hop (plagued me the entire weekend) - Move my temp gauges to be easier to read (already have a pod to install to resolve this) - Add more front aero, the car is definitely more prone to understeer on the limit (splitter project is already underway) - More cooling to cope with the higher elevation of PPIR in July Once I resolve the wheel hop issue and give it the aero it needs the car has a serious shot at being competitive which is super exciting to me. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...b0900ae39.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...2ed81f3ef.jpeg No aero removal required 🙂 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...55f55190e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...35d652314.jpeg Prototype splitter for Marc's car. Making more soon! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...c1ad33bf6.jpeg |
Some sweet shots from the weekend have started to roll in!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...b84cc232d9.jpg |
I see some fender flares in your future lol.
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You gotta take off that windshield banner, because its certainly no desert in the Chicago-land area this year :spin:
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Originally Posted by Balrok
(Post 11876039)
I see some fender flares in your future lol.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
(Post 11876047)
You gotta take off that windshield banner, because its certainly no desert in the Chicago-land area this year :spin:
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Some more on track shots made their way to me 🙂
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...a5e1467fd.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...d4affa68e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...d83ea5b3b.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...5417a0acc.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...9ca50dafb.jpeg |
So I was at the track last weekend and pretty much spent the entire time trying to get the car running properly. Kept having different intermittent issues. Sometimes car would idle okay but immediately die if you got revs over 2500. Other times it'd idle and rev and sitting still fine but die if you tried driving. Other times it'd idle and drive fine but hesitate on shifts if you got into boost. Sometimes if would fry the ignition fuse and die, other times it'd stay running. Sometimes it would throw crank and cam codes, other times they'd clear themselves and not come back for hours.
We spent most of saturday throwing parts at it and scratching our heads. Swapped plugs twice, checked resistance on all the ign coils, checked the fuel pump, checked the cam sensor, checked the MAF and the O2 sensor, checked wiring harnesses, pulled the dash to check the wiring inside the cabin. After all the troubleshooting I was (still am) 95% sure it's the crank sensor. There was a small click sound coming from the accessory drive but we originally wrote it off as a pulley bearing going bad. After I got home I tore into the car to check the crank sensor and low and behold the click sound is the trigger wheel hitting the crank sensor. I still need to check endplay on the crank but the motor has been running healthy and I don't expect the thrust bearing to be damaged at all. I just find it odd that out of the blue the crank trigger would start contacting the sensor. I thought maybe a piece of debris got into the timing cover but there wasn't anything in there. Timing is still perfectly as I set it when I put the motor together. I think I could get away with just bending the trigger plate flat again but I'm not chancing it and going to replace the sensor and the trigger. I had a friend recommend swapping the spacer behind the trigger that replaces the balance shaft gear for the balance shaft gear as the gear clamps more of the trigger plate area than the small spacer so I'll probably do that as well. Has anyone else had an issue with the crank trigger hitting the sensor? I've only been able to find one other instance of it here. |
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