EVOlutionary's LR2.2L MIVEC Build - Titanium Inside :)
So I was sitting inside my engine bay yesterday taking apart the car when I got to thinking about new ideas, new things I could do. As I took apart/removed the shifter/linkage I admired how simply moving two cables forward and backward in different patterns can produce everything from Reverse to Neutral to 5th gear. With just two simple cables.
I did a little Googling and read a couple articles that lead to this idea:
Electronic Shift Controller
So my idea works like this:
A simple forward/backward shift lever operates similar to that on a true sequential gearbox, but instead of operating the transmission directly, it sends the signal to the shift controller when you want to upshift (pull back toward you) or downshift (push forward). The shift controller also receives a signal from the clutch pedal so that it won't attempt to shift unless the clutch pedal is depressed fully (clutch disengaged). There are two pneumatic/hydraulic/electric actuators - one attached to each shift cable. When you select a gear the shift controller tells the actuators what position to move to for each corresponding gear. You want to shift from 1st to 2nd? While driving in 1st gear you push in the clutch, pull the shift lever, and the controller tells solenoid/actuator #2 to push the cable forward 2 inches. To shift from 2nd to third you push in the clutch and pull the lever, and the controller tells actuator #1 to move forward 1" and actuator #2 to move back 2 inches. This is all done in a split second.
Now here is where it gets interesting. Let's call this Race Mode. You could program the shift controller to work in a semi-automatic mode. Let's say you are coming to the end of the back straight at MidOhio. You know you want to shift down from 5th to 3rd. Before you hit the braking zone you tap the shift lever forward twice, but the controller doesn't do anything - because the clutch is not in! It REMEMBERS what to do next time the clutch is depressed! So now you come to the end of the straight away, hit the brakes, pop the clutch, blip the throttle, and the shift controller selects 3rd gear for you in the middle of the corner while you have both hands still on the steering wheel.
One step further - let's call this Drag Mode. For upshifts you could run an RPM input (or output for gear dependent shift point from a standalone) and while accelerating you pull the lever. The controller will shift when you hit the preselected RPM. Pull the lever again - the controller shifts again when you hit the perfect RPM.
Now I just need a computer programmer for a friend!
I did a little Googling and read a couple articles that lead to this idea:
Electronic Shift Controller
So my idea works like this:
A simple forward/backward shift lever operates similar to that on a true sequential gearbox, but instead of operating the transmission directly, it sends the signal to the shift controller when you want to upshift (pull back toward you) or downshift (push forward). The shift controller also receives a signal from the clutch pedal so that it won't attempt to shift unless the clutch pedal is depressed fully (clutch disengaged). There are two pneumatic/hydraulic/electric actuators - one attached to each shift cable. When you select a gear the shift controller tells the actuators what position to move to for each corresponding gear. You want to shift from 1st to 2nd? While driving in 1st gear you push in the clutch, pull the shift lever, and the controller tells solenoid/actuator #2 to push the cable forward 2 inches. To shift from 2nd to third you push in the clutch and pull the lever, and the controller tells actuator #1 to move forward 1" and actuator #2 to move back 2 inches. This is all done in a split second.
Now here is where it gets interesting. Let's call this Race Mode. You could program the shift controller to work in a semi-automatic mode. Let's say you are coming to the end of the back straight at MidOhio. You know you want to shift down from 5th to 3rd. Before you hit the braking zone you tap the shift lever forward twice, but the controller doesn't do anything - because the clutch is not in! It REMEMBERS what to do next time the clutch is depressed! So now you come to the end of the straight away, hit the brakes, pop the clutch, blip the throttle, and the shift controller selects 3rd gear for you in the middle of the corner while you have both hands still on the steering wheel.
One step further - let's call this Drag Mode. For upshifts you could run an RPM input (or output for gear dependent shift point from a standalone) and while accelerating you pull the lever. The controller will shift when you hit the preselected RPM. Pull the lever again - the controller shifts again when you hit the perfect RPM.
Now I just need a computer programmer for a friend!
You would have to have some hysteresis for timing of the one actuator that moves the side to side cable so it moves the side to side and holds it before the front to back actuates. It is a good idea and is probably feasable for a reasonable amount of money. The solenoids should be able to move pretty fast too.
Things are getting serious here! I just bought my first welder - a Millermatic 211 MVP MIG setup. Roll cage here I come! 
Honestly though, I'll leave that for the experts. My goal is to teach myself to weld acceptably over the winter for anything NON-structual. Maybe I'll stitch weld the stripped shell while I have it all apart. I got the 211MVP with a spool gun also, so I can MIG aluminum.
Honestly though, I'll leave that for the experts. My goal is to teach myself to weld acceptably over the winter for anything NON-structual. Maybe I'll stitch weld the stripped shell while I have it all apart. I got the 211MVP with a spool gun also, so I can MIG aluminum.
^ buy a TIG!!!
I have a Dynasty 200dx... their syncrowave 200 is a great affordable model too. Congrats on teh purchase.
Your shift box will be expensive unless you make it dumb... no software. Take it from me...it's what i do.
I have a Dynasty 200dx... their syncrowave 200 is a great affordable model too. Congrats on teh purchase.
Your shift box will be expensive unless you make it dumb... no software. Take it from me...it's what i do.
As I tear the car down I am getting ideas of things to change as I reassemble it next spring. A couple idea, who knows what I'll actually end up doing:
- trunk mount horizontal radiator, pull air from under the car and exhaust it out the back of the trunklid
- vertical flow intercooler mounted at a 30-45* angle in the radiator core support, air ducting from bumper opening up through IC and out the hood vents.
- Magnus rear subframe (can't remember if that is NASA TT legal - will have to check)
- finally going standalone, possibly AEM V2, Haltec, other?
- selling my aero kit and having DHP build a new bigger/better aero package - bigger front splitter, front wing?, quick detach flat bottom with integral side skirts, larger 2-element wing
- new front suspension setup in the works
- new powersteering cooler
- trunk mount horizontal radiator, pull air from under the car and exhaust it out the back of the trunklid
- vertical flow intercooler mounted at a 30-45* angle in the radiator core support, air ducting from bumper opening up through IC and out the hood vents.
- Magnus rear subframe (can't remember if that is NASA TT legal - will have to check)
- finally going standalone, possibly AEM V2, Haltec, other?
- selling my aero kit and having DHP build a new bigger/better aero package - bigger front splitter, front wing?, quick detach flat bottom with integral side skirts, larger 2-element wing
- new front suspension setup in the works
- new powersteering cooler
More stuff removed tonight:
And now the shell finally totally stripped except for the roof and windscreens!
Going to call the glass company next week and have the windows removed, then go to town removing the roof. Been looking alot lately at dry-sump oiling systems. Seems there are 3 competitors in the market - AMS, Magnus from Canada, and Norris/Titan from the UK. I don't know if I really NEED one or not. Has anyone seen an oil-starvation related engine failure when using the AMS oil pan??
And now the shell finally totally stripped except for the roof and windscreens!
Going to call the glass company next week and have the windows removed, then go to town removing the roof. Been looking alot lately at dry-sump oiling systems. Seems there are 3 competitors in the market - AMS, Magnus from Canada, and Norris/Titan from the UK. I don't know if I really NEED one or not. Has anyone seen an oil-starvation related engine failure when using the AMS oil pan??
