Here is a few more pics. Let me know what you think. Like I said all 3 mounts are on. These 3 mounts can only fit together one way.

 

havent read whole thread, but engine and rear end need to be solid mounted to use a one piece shaft.

 

No you do not. You certainly can't use OEM mounts though. I use avid 80D engine and trans mounts, solid front cross member, and near solid rear diff brackets. That is plenty.

 

Have you tried loosening everything and then mounting the driveshaft and bolting back up ? I can't really imagine that there would be that much play though ..

 

A few times thinking maybe the rear dog bone was not correct. I may try stock mounts just to see if it has anything to do with the avid/solid cross member. But I highly see this being a waste of time.

Going to Lowes to buy my self a nice dremal tool. Let's see what I can cut off to help with more clearance.

 

Dan,

Taking a look at that, it would seem that the 2 piece or 3 piece drive shaft had deflection angles in there, what I mean by that is, the respective segment snakes through the tunnel. Thus when you placed the one piece shaft in there, those small deflection angles were negated, causing the singular piece to hit the tunnel, The situation is amplified, more so now, since the one piece, has a larger inscribed diameter than the stock unit. IMO It is unlikely that 3 engine mounts, would be drastically off alignment, probable ? but unlikely.

My suggestion would be to cut the section out where the shaft is touching the tunnel. I am more than confident that you will be able to either weld in a new section of tunnel that accomodates the straight connection. If your concern is for mounting components to the tunnel... look into Rivet Nuts.. They work really well for Light Load applications ( i.e hangin brackets etc) ... If you want to chat about it feel free to give me a buzz.

my $0.02

 

exactly what i did. here is a piece i cut out. this is just the lower tunnel cover. not the actual tunnel if that makes any sense.



believe it or not removing that small of a piece as led to this



id guess about 1/2 inch from fitting. it is hitting another piece of that ''outer cover tunnel'' and im confident once it is removed this driveshaft will fit perfectly. now what i will do once i cut that piece off is just put a pipe over the TC tail and then push it up agents the tunnel and give it a few taps. only to insure the driveshaft has some room for movement. i may not even need to touch the actual tunnel at all. i may have a good 3/4 clearance which id hope is ok. but making room where i need to is very simple. no cutting needed of the tunnel and that makes me happy.

 

IT FITS. 100% bolted up and rotates. the closest spot to touching the driveshaft is about 1/4 inch. there is also a few spots that i feel are to close as well. i ran out of grinding wheels for the dremel tool i bought today. i only bought 6 and they are 1 1/2 wide. anyways i probably will not be able to touch the car until Thurs or Fri so for now i am happy to know tis just may work out. I also want to get a 4 inch pipe maybe 2 foot long to use to tap the tunnel with. i am not professional but id guess this would help keep it nice and round instead of 3000 hammer marks. also once this is completed i am going to fully sand and re paint the tunnel. on a plus side the car is 3lbs lighter as well . here are some pics.

 

thats awesome even more weight out from the modification you did not plan to do..win? i think so!

 

run a side exit exhaust or just have it jump to the ground right off the downpipe and save even more weight!

 

easy killer. this is not a drag car ''even though it is beginning to seem that way'' and i actually do drive this retarded thing on the streets when it is not broken. LOL

 

I forgot about the metal in the Ds tunnel. I secured my staging brake lines to it too, but Somehow it slipped my mind lol.

Good to hear it all worked out. Need some high quality pics while it's higher up in the air when it's all back together

 

new thread made about the driveshaft for those who are interested. i put it in EVO engine/turbo/drivetrain

 

ok so i got the head mostly completed today. its ready for install once the block is finished.

valve cover is just resting on it to keep the dirt out



Frontline Fab cam sensor cover



all the new goodies



here i had the water bung tapped and plugged. the water pipe was welded and is being powder coated. no more looping of a hose. this should look clean when it is in the car. also i had the oil return ports in the head ported a little bit for better oil return and maybe help drain the head while it is under pressure doring a pull.

 

Nice job i did that exact thing on my build now cause i got tired of looping line. And you need to tap that egr port while your at it!