LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

All of this is SOP for any machine shop/engine rebuilder. If you have to ask if they're doing these things, you need to find a new machinist.

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

I've seen a few locally built heads with loose valves after 1000 miles. I don't think it's always done right or carefully.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Yea, I don't play like that. I've literally swapped in new plugs before every event the last five events because I was paranoid since my plug failed last motor. The plugs have looked absolutely perfect every single time until now. I've done four compression checks over the approx 4,000 mile life of this new motor and they have been 165+ psi the whole time.

This is a new thing and only in one cylinder.

I'm not going to track a 500whp+ car with an oil covered spark plug. Hells to the no.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

A little over 4,000 miles. Brand new set of plugs before every event the last five events. Each set maybe have 500 miles on them max. Done a compression check four times since the new motor and always come out 165psi+ each time.

All new in the head:

Kelford 214-b cams
Driven Fab billet mivec exhaust housing
Kelford valve springs
Supertech inconel exhaust valves
Supertech black nitride intake valves
GSC viton valve stem seals
GSC manganese valve guides
ARP head studs
OEM head gasket

Bottom end, bearings, pistons, rods, rings, all new.

This was really an almost no expensive spared build in that I replaced almost everything with new even though the engine itself only had 19,000 miles on it at time of failure.

I'm really hoping this is top end related and not bottom end so the motor doesn't have to come out.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Not sure how easy it is to remove the intake manifold off a 4B but if it's a pain in the *** you could check out the top of the valves through the spark plug hole with a cheap endoscope like this:
If it's a guide or seal problem you'll see it on the top of the valve.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

See bolded sentence.


Bryan, that sucks finding oil on the plug. I agree, I wouldn't want to track an engine with that issue. Getting enough oil in one cylinder is going to severely reduce the octane of the air/fuel charge in that cylinder and be prone to knock which could lead to bottom end damage. My highly abused and oil consuming stock engine never had plugs that were wet with oil. If compression and leak down is good, get a good look in the cylinders with a bore scope, if you don't see damage, pull the manifolds off and see if you can see a leaking valve guide/seal. Start with the intake, mostly because it's easier to pull...lol

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

it doesn't make sense to have oil on plugs with so little miles on new build. #3 looks to be leaking the most oil. Did you overrev? Did you replace retainers too? I recall there were clearance problems between an aftermarker set of retainers and valve stems on the evo 8/9, not sure if X's have them too.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Kelford spring kits come with retainers.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

I do have a USB endoscope that I used to look at the top of the pistons. The piston was too far up to see the walls or piston sides so I'll take a look again after I turn the motor.

Also, this is only on one plug, #3, which is (maybe a coincidence) the same plug cylinder that failed on my OEM motor.

The car regularly sees 8500rpm on track and I had hit the limiter at 8800rpm a few times the last event. Perhaps I damaged the valve train.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

What was the failure mode of your last engine? I'd be hard pressed to believe that some sort of design flaw affecting one cylinder would rear its head this early into the build without it being a well known issue.

I'd put money on it being something small, and I'm not saying that just because that's what I want it to be lol

deylag

iTrader: (23)

A leak down test would give a better idea of whats happening.

whtrice

iTrader: (6)

Darn.....That plug definitely got wet.....scope it and report. Cylinder and #3 intake port if possible. Compression test too like you said.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Today I put another set of used plugs in and drove the car around for about 15 minutes to warm it up so I could do a warm compression check. I never saw any smoke at WOT (I only WOT for about 1000rpm just to be safe) and never saw any at idle.

The plug came out with a little oil on it, not sure if it was from the oil in the cylinder or from whatever is putting oil into the cylinder.

I did a compression check and it came out solid so that made me feel better that it might just be a leaky guide or seal. Either way the head is going to have to come off. I'm going to try and make an appointment with my local shop to do a leak down test and take the head off

whtrice

iTrader: (6)

Readings look as good as last time. Looks more like valve guide or seal. Sorry head has to come off. Least your not on No. 7 engine like my brother has gone through with his Vette.....

Jaraxle

Bryan,
I was looking back at your FPR problems. Are you running the OEM fuel rail, OEM FPR, and OEM 1/4" return line ? I am going to be upgrading my fuel pump from a Walbro 255 to something bigger for E85 and I don't want my fuel pressure going sky high. I have the radium hanger same as you, so that does remove some restriction at the end of the return line. If I remember right you had a progressive controller with a Walbro 450 and kept the OEM fuel rail,fpr, and 1/4" return line. But then you ripped out the progressive controller when you had fuel pressure problems. Did you upgrade the FPR and return line and run the 450 100% power all the time?