Evo 8 build! (2.3, albins dogbox, top mount 6870)
#36
Newbie
Thread Starter
She's been running for a few months now, hit 1500 miles. Time to turn up the boost! Switched the plan from e85 to q16. I'll post up a dyno sheet when it's done.
#40
Newbie
Thread Starter
#42
Evolving Member
Subscribed!
#43
Newbie
Thread Starter
Update!
Long time since I've been on here. The engine popped a while back. The key way on the crankshaft snapped in half. Anyways here's what I've got going on now.
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Head CNC machined by 4pistonsracing
NEW valves, springs, lifters, rockers.... everything is new
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Block
NEW Manley Billet crankshaft, rods, pistons
Running some GSC R2's this time
FFTEC modified rear differential
Should make some impressive power. Car is in California still I've since moved to Minnesota, I'm going to bring it back to do a full paint correction, clear wrap and ceramic coating then put it up for sale.
https://youtu.be/L9TGVSoSaoE
https://youtu.be/FWmTj7LQe9I
https://youtu.be/nYD6vw7WZ14
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Head CNC machined by 4pistonsracing
NEW valves, springs, lifters, rockers.... everything is new
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Block
NEW Manley Billet crankshaft, rods, pistons
Running some GSC R2's this time
FFTEC modified rear differential
Should make some impressive power. Car is in California still I've since moved to Minnesota, I'm going to bring it back to do a full paint correction, clear wrap and ceramic coating then put it up for sale.
https://youtu.be/L9TGVSoSaoE
https://youtu.be/FWmTj7LQe9I
https://youtu.be/nYD6vw7WZ14
Last edited by evanwest94; Mar 1, 2019 at 08:53 PM.
#44
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Long time since I've been on here. The engine popped a while back. The key way on the crankshaft snapped in half. Anyways here's what I've got going on now.
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Head CNC machined by 4pistonsracing
NEW valves, springs, lifters, rockers.... everything is new
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Block
NEW Manley Billet crankshaft, rods, pistons
Running some GSC R2's this time
FFTEC modified rear differential
Should make some impressive power. Car is in California still I've since moved to Minnesota, I'm going to bring it back to do a full paint correction, clear wrap and ceramic coating then put it up for sale.
https://youtu.be/L9TGVSoSaoE
https://youtu.be/FWmTj7LQe9I
https://youtu.be/nYD6vw7WZ14
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Head CNC machined by 4pistonsracing
NEW valves, springs, lifters, rockers.... everything is new
NEW OEM Mitsubishi Evo 8 Block
NEW Manley Billet crankshaft, rods, pistons
Running some GSC R2's this time
FFTEC modified rear differential
Should make some impressive power. Car is in California still I've since moved to Minnesota, I'm going to bring it back to do a full paint correction, clear wrap and ceramic coating then put it up for sale.
https://youtu.be/L9TGVSoSaoE
https://youtu.be/FWmTj7LQe9I
https://youtu.be/nYD6vw7WZ14
I saw that you used the 100mm turbo tuff crankshaft and cringed. Had one break on me as well using the same rods you had. Our Motovisity contact said that per Manley they are know to have issue with cracking ones you hit the 650awhp area. Really suggest looking into some aluminum rods instead of steel. They are far more forgiving than the steel rods are on bearings. Awesome car though.
#45
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (12)
Glad to see you back!
Are you going with the 88mm Manley Billet? I think it's the 100mm (2.3l stroke) cranks that have the cracking issue. Although the oem 88mm crank can also take a ton of power. I think the 'turbo tuff" i beams will work great, but some light, high end Carillo's would also do the job and help keep reciprocating and rational weight about the crank journal down. I'm afraid that although the aluminum rods are better on the bearings, they will stretch over time with the amount power power being made here. Rod bearing crush could eventually disappear.
Are you going with the 88mm Manley Billet? I think it's the 100mm (2.3l stroke) cranks that have the cracking issue. Although the oem 88mm crank can also take a ton of power. I think the 'turbo tuff" i beams will work great, but some light, high end Carillo's would also do the job and help keep reciprocating and rational weight about the crank journal down. I'm afraid that although the aluminum rods are better on the bearings, they will stretch over time with the amount power power being made here. Rod bearing crush could eventually disappear.