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I never bothered measuring it. Quite frankly, as long as you turned the motor over a couple times let it sit for like 15 minutes and you can still easily slide the grenade pin in and out then you're fine.
Starting to come together. But I think I'm going to remove the valve cover and reseal it. Reflection of American flag was not intended but still pretty sweet!
Installed Tomei crank scraper and Racefab wetsump. Cleaned top of valve cover. Made for good photo. Getting close to putting motor and 5spd in the car!
Nice build.
You may want to check the oil passage near some of the exhaust studs. Iirc there are two that come close to going thru when you replace those exhaust studs.
If they are screwed in too much it can push aluminum shavings into the engine. Some loctite on those two studs is also recommended.
Almost all the lower studs go through and touch oil return holes in the head. With the junk oilpan and no baffle installed I bathed the head in oil several times to wash anything down into the junk pan. I also ran a tap down all the threads to clean them up. Ive read not to use loctite and only snug the studs. The torque from the bolt when installing the manifold is all thats needed. But I am not sure.
More concerned my oil pan is sealed at the moment. Sprayed a lot of oil in the head over night. Will check in a little if there are any leaks around the block/pan
Almost all the lower studs go through and touch oil return holes in the head. With the junk oilpan and no baffle installed I bathed the head in oil several times to wash anything down into the junk pan. I also ran a tap down all the threads to clean them up. Ive read not to use loctite and only snug the studs. The torque from the bolt when installing the manifold is all thats needed. But I am not sure.
If any metal went into the engine it's going to stick on the walls of the head or block. If it were me I would take the head off and clean it and the block. It sucks to do but you've spent a lot of time and money to this point, you don't want to have any issues
That would also involve removing the rotating assembly. Seems excessive... and i just put it all back together. I can see down all the returns while on the stand. I have a pump and tube and am forcing oil with pressure down each one. And I've repeatedly washed out the head with this and let it all drain back into the pan.
I'm going to do so maybe a few more times for good measure. And will change oil excessively once it starts the first time again.
But for these reasons it actually occurred to me to just get a new OEM shortblock and build off of that. May yet do so if this one dies.
Well after losing sleep over it... I had a chat with the guys at Boostin Performance. I think im gonna drop the whole engine off for a fresh 2.0 rebuild and head work. I dont wana leave anything to chance and after the money on the driveline, I think the motor deserves equal love. Updates to follow.
Aug 30, 2017, 02:27 PM
