Derrick's FF 2.4LR HTA82 Mivec Build
#1
Derrick's FF 2.4LR HTA82 Mivec Build
Well I think it's about time I make a build thread for my baby
Graphite Grey Evo IX MR with 22k miles ( Currently dipped White)
History:
About 5 years ago when I was around 20 I flew out to Iowa and picked her up with only 17,500 miles. After less than 5000 miles and maybe a year of driving, the motor failed. I was one of the "lucky" ones who managed to get crankwalk in an evo. I've been collecting parts to build a monster ever since. At the time I could barely even drive stick, and didn't know too much about fixing cars. Over the years I've accumulated an insane amount of knowledge (and parts) from these forums, so thanks guys! After buying 2 different motors and changing my mind (2.0, 2.3) I've finally settled on the right motor, the 2.4 long rod. I've just finished assembling the short block myself; tapped for oil squirters, clearanced for rods, smoothed oil galleys/removed casting flaws, tapped for mivec feed, gapped rings, cleaned, measured, inspected, torqued, all on my own. This thread not only shows how much the car has evolved, but how much I've learned along the way.
Engine:
4g64 block + crank
custom ordered Wiseco 1400HD 86.5mm Stroker Pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff 156mm rods
ACL bearings (all)
ARP Main Studs
4g63 squirters
Mitsu Balance Shaft Delete Kit
Fluidampr
GSC S3 Mivec Cams
L19 Headstuds
Magnus Drag SMIM Intake Manifold
JMF Forward Facing Exhaust Manifold
Forced Performance HTA3582r Turbo with 3" exit
+many more, will update later
Clearancing for Turbo Tuff Rods
car will be tuned at STM on 93 (no E85 in Vermont)
I will be posting lots of pictures and updates in the near future.
Graphite Grey Evo IX MR with 22k miles ( Currently dipped White)
History:
About 5 years ago when I was around 20 I flew out to Iowa and picked her up with only 17,500 miles. After less than 5000 miles and maybe a year of driving, the motor failed. I was one of the "lucky" ones who managed to get crankwalk in an evo. I've been collecting parts to build a monster ever since. At the time I could barely even drive stick, and didn't know too much about fixing cars. Over the years I've accumulated an insane amount of knowledge (and parts) from these forums, so thanks guys! After buying 2 different motors and changing my mind (2.0, 2.3) I've finally settled on the right motor, the 2.4 long rod. I've just finished assembling the short block myself; tapped for oil squirters, clearanced for rods, smoothed oil galleys/removed casting flaws, tapped for mivec feed, gapped rings, cleaned, measured, inspected, torqued, all on my own. This thread not only shows how much the car has evolved, but how much I've learned along the way.
Engine:
4g64 block + crank
custom ordered Wiseco 1400HD 86.5mm Stroker Pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff 156mm rods
ACL bearings (all)
ARP Main Studs
4g63 squirters
Mitsu Balance Shaft Delete Kit
Fluidampr
GSC S3 Mivec Cams
L19 Headstuds
Magnus Drag SMIM Intake Manifold
JMF Forward Facing Exhaust Manifold
Forced Performance HTA3582r Turbo with 3" exit
+many more, will update later
Clearancing for Turbo Tuff Rods
car will be tuned at STM on 93 (no E85 in Vermont)
I will be posting lots of pictures and updates in the near future.
Last edited by O0oDC; May 17, 2016 at 11:55 AM.
#2
A bit more history. The car was totaled in a front end collision at only 4500 miles. The car was fully repaired with a brand new front end and perfect body lines. However there was one section of frame that was pulled straight but looked terrible. I used the engine loss as an opportunity to repair this section of frame.
The bastard frame rail
The new rail in, blending seams
I also used this as an opportunity to shave and paint the engine bay! Another first for me.
After Epoxy Primer
After Paint
After Clearcoat
How she sits now
The bastard frame rail
The new rail in, blending seams
I also used this as an opportunity to shave and paint the engine bay! Another first for me.
After Epoxy Primer
After Paint
After Clearcoat
How she sits now
#6
It's been awhile since I've updated you guys on this build, so I thought I'd fill you in. The shop that I work on the Evo at has conflicting schedules with my work week. Therefore I only get about 6 hours a week (sometimes 12 sometimes none) to work on it. The engine has been in all summer, but I've spent way more time than expected custom fabricating the downpipe, Intercooler pipes, radiator, wiring harness etc. After wiring in the rear battery and some gauges last week the car is about ready for first startup.
#7
I decided to install my wideband into my "LANCER" gauge as I've seen before. The How-To thread that I found suggested desoldering the display, extending the wires in the the cluster, and having the gauge internals elsewhere. I instead bought one of AEM's new X Series thin gauges and retrofit it into the cluster. This was actually pretty hard to get it to fit without interfering with anything.
Gauge installed
I wanted a more OEM look, so I took the "Lancer" faceplate and used a tiny endmill to cut out the lancer letters into a slot perfectly sized to match the widebands digital display
I haven't finished wiring yet, I'll post a lit up picture when that's finished
Gauge installed
I wanted a more OEM look, so I took the "Lancer" faceplate and used a tiny endmill to cut out the lancer letters into a slot perfectly sized to match the widebands digital display
I haven't finished wiring yet, I'll post a lit up picture when that's finished
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#8
So this build has taken me forever, but I've made quite a bit of progress. Everything is all installed and wired, just working on getting it running now.
I attempted first start and the oil pressure immediately maxed out my pressure gauge at 100psi+. I immediately shut the car down to try to figure out the issue. I'm running Valvoline non detergent SAE30 for break in, (as recommended by JohnBradley of English Racing in a different thread). I intend to pick up a mechanial pressure gauge to verify the accuracy of digital gauge.
Also having issues with AEM, but I'll work on that in the AEM forum
#10
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
100psi+ is likely accurate on cold start with straight 30wt, deleted balance shafts, and no(?) oil squirters
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