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I ordered a radium rail and damper as well.
Looking forward to fixing that lean spot issue.
Good luck with your build
Thanks man, you too. It most likely will. I choose to use the same vacuum reference line from my FPR on the FPD to keep both diaphragms under the exact same conditions. It probably doesn't matter.
After almost 1000 miles of driving, I am proud to say that the car no longer burns any oil *knocks on wood*. The tuning process is moving nicely and i'm in the process of shake down and coming up with the next round of add-ons for the car.
Here is what's coming up next!
1. Due to the IACV not functioning properly ( failed the click test) I will be replacing it. When I start the car, I have to hold the throttle down slightly otherwise it starts in a "boggy" nature. My suspicion is, when the IACV is working properly it modules the idle so that the engine springs to life around 1500rpm until warm enough to settle idle, like my car did before during cold starts.
When I have my rear window defroster on and the heater, the engine stalls when I come to a stop in neutral. I'm thinking, this is because the IACV is not stepping up idle to compensate for the extra voltage load (and consequential mechanical load) the alternator now has. We shall see soon enough!
2. I am piecing together a light duty, but very capable car pc solution. Intel makes pocket sized HDMI, wifi, bluetooth windows 10 PC's called compute sticks. Some models have 3 USB ports as well as a Core M3 processor, 64gb of storage that is expandable through micro sd, and 4gb of ram. This should be more than enough to run Evoscan and ECU flash.....see where i'm going with this?
My plan is to hook one of these up semi-permanently to a single DIN video head unit and use a fold-able bluetooth keyboard with touch pad to control it. I'd connect both my Wideband gauge and Tactrixs cable to it for datalogging and live gauge display in Evoscan. I found a low profile power inverter and an HDMI to RCA converter that would help make this a reality. Everything would be hidden inside the dash and the PC would boot to login screen in under 30 seconds.
The features I would gain in the evo if I can pull this off:
1. Wifi connectivity
2. Media Center
3. Datalogging, editing, and flashing maps without carrying a laptop
4. Live display evoscan gauges through head unit screen.
5. A place to view dash cam footage
6. Ability to run G-force datalogger so that I don't have to rely on butt dyno. This will also help me adjust suspension for max grip.
7. Evoscan live map tracer.
8. Cool factor
This can be something great and I'm only worried about two stupid things. Are the tactrix USB drivers going to play nice with the Intel Compute stick and is the HDMI to RCA converter and HU combo going to butcher the resolution of the PC? Only one way to find out!
3. My front bumper is making a mean creaking noise at the driver side that I can hear on the freeway. It has done it before and I know where it's coming from, but it's annoying to fix.
4. I need to come up with a better cable solution for my gentex rear view mirror and reafix the windshield button/anchor.
5. Invest in a dash cam solution.
As always, I will be posting pictures once the projects commence.
I've already setup windows 10 on the compute stick and installed evoscan, ecuflash, and updated the xml directory. I've also uploaded a selection of maps and movies for fun. Very impressed with this tiny PC so far.
Power inverter, keyboard carrying case, folded bluetooth keyboard
Yes, and I will cut a hole in my floor pan to bolt in a sensor so that when it falls off, my Head unit will flash "Danger to Manifold" with no correlation whatsoever
Progress has commenced. You guys have seen me wire things many times already so i'll save you the details. Everything works, but I am experiencing a noisy signal when using the power inverter(static audio sound). When I plug the Compute stick into the house power through an extension cable, there is no noise, so I know it's coming from or caused by the inverter.
Getting ready to operate and install new head unit.
Soldering in new head unit.
Making my connections for testing the new head unit with intel compute stick.
Plugging in Tactrix cable USB and UART USB to log wideband gauge.
Mounting Power inverter and RCA box
Inspecting location and determining layout. Here you can see the Power inverter and HDMI to RCA converter side by side. Fuel pump voltage gauge.
Mounting the Computer. ( I still can't believe how small it is)
Switch location for the PC so that it does not automatically start up each time I start the car if I don't need to use it.
Grounding Power Inverter
..and we're good!! All software and drivers run as they should! The car officially datalogs and flashes itself.
Now I just need to finish putting the interior back together and adjust the screen resolution so that a human being can read the text.
You are taking ~14.5 volts DC stepping that up and converting it to 120volts AC then using a mains rated isolating power supply to convert that back to DC and stepping it down to 5 volts. You should just use a power supply to convert the ~14.5 volts DC down to a regulated 5v DC that USB runs on.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Dec 7, 2017 at 12:18 PM.
You are taking ~14.5 volts DC stepping that up and converting it to 120volts AC then using a mains rated isolating power supply to convert that back to DC and stepping it down to 5 volts. You should just use a power supply to convert the ~14.5 volts DC down to a regulated 5v DC that USB runs on.
You've got an excellent point there! I suppose that could work if I use a USB hub on the PC itself as it only has 1 port. 2 of them are on the power supply. I'm worried that there is some kind of protection associated with the OEM compute stick power supply. Should I just look at the ratings and obtain a DC-DC power supply with the same specs? I don't want to harm the PC.
You've got an excellent point there! I suppose that could work if I use a USB hub on the PC itself as it only has 1 port. 2 of them are on the power supply. I'm worried that there is some kind of protection associated with the OEM compute stick power supply. Should I just look at the ratings and obtain a DC-DC power supply with the same specs? I don't want to harm the PC.
if you look at the adapter for the compute stick it should list out its ratings. Yah, you really wanna keep everything DC, aside from alot of power loss you are introducing noise with every one of those converters.
Nov 29, 2017, 12:59 PM
