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I found a bare 4G64 block on ebay for a decent price and decided to pick it up just in case something happens... because my current build has a Manley billet crank before they started deburring the sharp edges off the #4 journal oil hole ...
You can tell that the block was once rusted to **** and someone went through the trouble of cleaning it up incorrectly by painting over the rust instead of actually letting it soak in the hot tank and agitating the block with other tools. The water pump area seems to have some wear, but this should not affect the water pump output too much. I can barely make out the block tag itself, but you can very faintly see the "G64." I'll be punching out and rotating the balance shaft bearings as I don't care for balance shafts. I will be machining oil squirters into the block because I like this gif:
Bores are virgin, but of course measurements were all over the place around the 86.5mm (3.4055") stock bore size. When I decide to start this engine build, I will be using a K1 or Winberg depending on the budget at that time. Not sure if I want to do 2.2LR or 2.4LR. Ideally i'd like to source a crank made of EN40B, which is stronger than the 4340 billet we are all aware of. The problem is it's rare for the 4g63 and 4g64, crazy expensive, and can break a lot of high speed tools during it's formation and balancing process. Some F1 teams have used EN40B for their crank material.
(add the numbers above to oem bore size to get true measurements. Disregard the negative signs)
Tonight will be a car wash and maybe work on a door or 2...
A good project is never done, it just gets better.
Tonight I decided to finally tackle the new wiring required for the power folding side mirrors. There are a few threads about these mirrors, but none tell you what to expect once you really dig into the signals and mounting solution.
For one, you can't just bolt up the mirrors and expect them to work. You have to swap the mounting bases that they swivel on with your USDM ones so that the mirrors point in the correct direction for a left hand drive vehicle. The second part is, you can't really find the evo 7 five wire wiring diagram anywhere for the power folding mirrors so you have to figure it out yourself. Both USDM and JDM mirrors need to be depinned so that their plastic connectors can be swapped. Finally, in order to fit the JDM mirros on the USDM base, the bases must be notched to clear two metal stand offs that are located at the bottom of each mirrors swivel body.
I weighed the USDM and Japan mirrors side by side and found that there is only about a 0.10 lb difference between them. Now, 47 extra grams for an electric motor assembly to fold the mirrors in? That's nothing even for a performance oriented car. You bet i'm going to try it! Japanese Evo 7 Mirror USDM Evo 9 Mirror
JDM mirror harness before being depinned USDM bases must be notched to fit the JDM mirror correctly. USDM Base notched using dremmel tool and cutting disk. Parts to be used during wiring and installation. Bases are now swapped at this point. USDM wiring harness before being depinned. Final wiring configuration. Same was done for passenger side. Mirror Installed, nice and neat. New conduit added for speaker wire and power folding mirror wire.
As of right now, the extra two wires sit tucked away in the kick panels until I can finalize how I need them to work. I'm leaning towards them auto folding with alarm vs a manual reverse polarity switch.
Very nice on the jdm power folding side mirrors! Great build also.
Thanks! I just need to get used to the slightly curved mirror glass being on the driver side vs the passenger. Typically this is the glass that says "Objects in the mirror are closer than they appear" There are some advantages to it being on the driver side though.
I found a bare 4G64 block on ebay for a decent price and decided to pick it up just in case something happens... because my current build has a Manley billet crank before they started deburring the sharp edges off the #4 journal oil hole ...
You can tell that the block was once rusted to **** and someone went through the trouble of cleaning it up incorrectly by painting over the rust instead of actually letting it soak in the hot tank and agitating the block with other tools. The water pump area seems to have some wear, but this should not affect the water pump output too much. I can barely make out the block tag itself, but you can very faintly see the "G64." I'll be punching out and rotating the balance shaft bearings as I don't care for balance shafts. I will be machining oil squirters into the block because I like this gif:
Bores are virgin, but of course measurements were all over the place around the 86.5mm (3.4055") stock bore size. When I decide to start this engine build, I will be using a K1 or Winberg depending on the budget at that time. Not sure if I want to do 2.2LR or 2.4LR. Ideally i'd like to source a crank made of EN40B, which is stronger than the 4340 billet we are all aware of. The problem is it's rare for the 4g63 and 4g64, crazy expensive, and can break a lot of high speed tools during it's formation and balancing process. Some F1 teams have used EN40B for their crank material.
(add the numbers above to oem bore size to get true measurements. Disregard the negative signs)
Tonight will be a car wash and maybe work on a door or 2...
Hey buddy,
Once again great information from you.
So you will hone the Cylinders taking the highest reading as standard ?
Bores are virgin, but of course measurements were all over the place around the 86.5mm (3.4055") stock bore size. When I decide to start this engine build, I will be using a K1 or Winberg depending on the budget at that time. Not sure if I want to do 2.2LR or 2.4LR. Ideally i'd like to source a crank made of EN40B, which is stronger than the 4340 billet we are all aware of. The problem is it's rare for the 4g63 and 4g64, crazy expensive, and can break a lot of high speed tools during it's formation and balancing process. Some F1 teams have used EN40B for their crank material.
..
Good score on the block. I was just looking for one yesterday.
I wouldn't worry about using an exotic material like EN40B. Most of those road race crank failures are an inherent harmonics issue that cause crack formation and propagation. Pretty much all steel alloys have the same natural frequency so moving to a stronger material won't fix that unless the material is more elastic. I don't know how much research you've done about it but getting a crank made out of something like that will run in the $5-8000 range. It's just not worth it, if you have really any catastrophic failure from any other part you risk losing that expensive crank.
Originally Posted by mines5
Hey buddy,
Once again great information from you.
So you will hone the Cylinders taking the highest reading as standard ?
Cylinder measurement used is the smallest measurement. Piston measurement used is the largest. Measuring like that gives you a minimum clearance. Doing it any other way could potentially give you a negative clearance which means a very dead engine very quickly.
If anyone here has an aftermarket stereo, please make sure you plug in the antenna power wire. Here is proof that our oem evo 8/9 roof antennas are indeed powered and have a signal amplifier built in. This drastically improves signal quality especially for stuby antennas.
If anyone here has an aftermarket stereo, please make sure you plug in the antenna power wire. Here is proof that our oem evo 8/9 roof antennas are indeed powered and have a signal amplifier built in. This drastically improves signal quality especially for stuby antennas.
Oct 29, 2018, 11:20 AM
