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Well, if someone is gonna break it, there's a good chance it's you (once you get one) or me.
That's why I had everything WPC treated. I didn't want to spend $6000 on a transmission and then blow it up.
True. In the name of science!
Then one of us can go crazy and build a billet 6 speed case with provisions for larger shafts, even thicker gears, and a built in oiling system. I'd imagine we would need to drop our sub frames each time we install it and that it would hardly fit. I think it's totally doable though if we win the right lottery
How fast is the pump? Jw if gravity can feed through those banjo fittings easy enough? I ported the fittings in other applications.
It's pretty fast. The first pump I tried was rated at 3.7GPM, but was loud as an old can opener so I opted for a new pump which is rated at 1.75GPM. The new pump would still quietly empty the trans in under 30 seconds. I'd say both pumps pulled vacuum on the oil quite easily so flow wasn't too much of an issue with the 3/8" lines. I was also concerned that if the pump were too fast, it could over airrate the oil.
So, I dropped off the 2002 Evo 7 power folding side mirrors at paint this morning for repaint and color match to my 2006 Evo 9. The paint on the SE lip that I cherished and loved so much began to crack and flake. The shop who painted the lip (which was recommended by a friend) did a **** job with their paint prep. I know they prepped it like crap. I should be able to bend the lip without the paint cracking, or else it's done very wrong.
I decided to deal with finding someone to work on the SE lip later and instead polished up and installed an OEM painted graphite grey GSR lip that I was going to sell in combination with my APR front splitter. It came together very well, but it is one less SE feature on the car now that I liked. Our OEM paint might suck, but nothing sticks to panels better.
In better news, I received a call from Ryan at FP yesterday telling me that my turbo rebuild is complete and that I should be receiving an invoice via email this week. That was very fast compared to what I have been reading about FP's rebuild times. If you guys are looking to send something out for a rebuild, now is a good time as they don't seem to be flooded with messed up turbos.
Looking forward to getting the car back off the jack stands in the next two to three weeks.
FP's turn around on rebuilds has been good for a while. When I sent mine in last year I think they had it for about 10 days. And my turbine housing needed to sit in an acid bath for two days lol. Wasn't bad at all IMO,
FP's turn around on rebuilds has been good for a while. When I sent mine in last year I think they had it for about 10 days. And my turbine housing needed to sit in an acid bath for two days lol. Wasn't bad at all IMO,
That's good to know. At this point i'm just itching to just pay for the rebuild and have it shipped back to me. I've already contacted them about this, but it looks like they rebuild turbo's faster than they send out invoices. Some lag between departments.
Good news! The FP Turbo is on it's way back to me now and progress is being made. I received the JDM mirrors back from paint and installed them on the car. Not bad at all!
My spare engine build is coming along nicely. I managed to balance the TOTAL weight of each piston and rod assembly to within 0.1 of a gram. Next i'm going to take the parts to a machine shop to get the total reciprocating and rotating measurements in order to balance the crank counter weights. I think the formula was something like 100% of the reciprocating weight and 50% of the rotating weight.
Here is what it looked like after I swapped the jacked up SE lip for the restored GSR lip. Not too much of a difference as I think the attention is mostly towards the splitter.
One thing that surprised me was how inexpensive getting parts machined/balanced is. It was like $120 for all my rods, pistons, crank and flywheel.
I can recommend RevCo Precision in the South Bay because that's who Ed Pink Racing Engines recommends.
Funny enough, FFWD with their butcher crank said it was balanced, and RevCo was like "I got it a little closer than that."
I love people like that.
Mirrors look good
Thank you! I'd agree, I like it when machine shops take your project and parts to a personal level. If they treat your parts as if they are building their own engine, you can rest assured knowing that you are getting the best practices. It's really about how much time they want to spend on the parts. The ability to get all the balancing and PTW's is there, but it's rare to find a shop that will hit those targets perfectly. When that spark goes off, cylinder walls experience some level of distortion to the ten thou level that many machine shops call their "waste of time" figure so that even if the PTW's are perfect, they won't be when the engine is WOT.
The car is back together and on the road again! No more blue smoke or oil smell! Oil pressure at idle using VR1 10W30 is 80 -90 psi when cold and 20 psi when hot. Cold cruise is 90-120psi and hot cruise is 60 to 80psi with a max at 90 PSI during high revs. FP doesn't recommend anyone exceed 100psi of oil pressure for their evo stock frame JB turbos. Luckily I take it easy on the car until it is actually warmed up.
I haven't heard back from the machine shop yet about my spare block and crank, but I also told them I was in no rush. Hopefully that translated to " I don't need it back this month" and not "I don't need it back for 6 months."
I do plan to document the short block build on here with lots of pictures.
The car is back together and on the road again! No more blue smoke or oil smell! Oil pressure at idle using VR1 10W30 is 80 -90 psi when cold and 20 psi when hot. Cold cruise is 90-120psi and hot cruise is 60 to 80psi with a max at 90 PSI during high revs. FP doesn't recommend anyone exceed 100psi of oil pressure for their evo stock frame JB turbos. Luckily I take it easy on the car until it is actually warmed up.
I haven't heard back from the machine shop yet about my spare block and crank, but I also told them I was in no rush. Hopefully that translated to " I don't need it back this month" and not "I don't need it back for 6 months."
I do plan to document the short block build on here with lots of pictures.
Your not afraid of getting pulled over, and the MAN ask you to pop your hood ?
What do you do or say when and if it happens???
Your not afraid of getting pulled over, and the MAN ask you to pop your hood ?
What do you do or say when and if it happens???
To be honest, I used to be until I picked up a second car and pieced together an emergency emissions legal parts kit. Basically I kept all the stock parts and recently bought a stock turbo just in case I get reffed again. I have had it happen before during the first year I owned the car when driving through a DUI check point (wasn't drinking). I didn't have too many mods, but I still had to go back to stock, fight a $500.00 charge in court (which I won) and get signed off by a state referee who are extremely thorough and will turn you away until they see nothing but old, rusty, oem parts.
It's a nightmare, but having your hood popped with a quiet and stock appearing exhaust is rare. Here are a few good responses that have gotten me off the hook multiple times. The key is respect and having a polite tone of voice. Basically you can't be a dick because they can be even worse than you
Officer: "Do you have any idea why I pulled you over today? " Most of the time we know why, but I answer like this. " Officer, I apologize and I should have been smarter than that." This is a kind and ambiguous statement that does not technically admit guilt and is a good ice breaker between you and the cop.
Officer: "Do you have anything done to the car?" Never lie to a cop, it will **** them off and many times they can tell. Just tell them one legal mod or take my approach and tell them something they can't see that is neither here nor there. "Yes sir, I had the car dyno tuned." Again, be polite, but don't give them too much. It just might be enough for them to send you on your way with a warning.
Officer: "Can you pop the hood for me?" This is very rare, but if it happens you still have a chance of not getting shafted if the cop likes you. "Yes sir, may I step out of the car?"
The key is to let them think they are in control the entire time, but remember that you made a choice to modify your car in CA and will need to own up to it. The goal is to drive home with the car and not get it impounded. Tickets are the least of your worries.
Other useful tips:
1. Don't drive past 77mph.
2. Don't attend burnt out car meets.
3. Don't run a loud exhaust in CA.
4. If a group of ricers appear next to you on the freeway, slowly back away from them so that law enforcement does not think you are a part of their group.
5. Only accelerate hard when there are little to no cars in site.
6. If you see a cop going your route, take an alternate route. Why even risk it? Out of site, out of mind.
Last edited by Pal215; Feb 26, 2019 at 01:34 PM.
Reason: details
Jan 31, 2019, 12:54 PM
