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That's a ****ty weld for it to crack like that. You can see the weld cracked off of the tube. If it was a good weld, the weldment wouldn't crack. The tube itself would be broken at the weld.
I purchased that manifold when I put the turbo on years ago. I also didn't want to deal with a tubular manifold cracking or the cars sound changing tone.
It performs and fits well. The runners are a little larger and didn't effect spool with the factory twin scroll housing. I'm still seeing 20psi by 3800-4000 in any gear with the red.
I purchased that manifold when I put the turbo on years ago. I also didn't want to deal with a tubular manifold cracking or the cars sound changing tone.
It performs and fits well. The runners are a little larger and didn't effect spool with the factory twin scroll housing. I'm still seeing 20psi by 3800-4000 in any gear with the red.
QUE?? My car makes 20psi at 4k. You should be an easy 500-600rpms sooner with the 2.2 and mivec.
awesome build! Everything looks really good, I would make one suggestion though. Replace the factory coolant hose clamps with either worm gear or t-bolt style clamps. Those factory clamps tend to fail. It looks like you still have pretty easy access to all of them so it shouldn't take much time at all.
If the factory spring tension clamps wear out, replace them with another set of factory spring tension clamps. They are the best design for prevent leaks from coolant hoses because they keep constant tension as things expand/contract.
If the factory spring tension clamps wear out, replace them with another set of factory spring tension clamps. They are the best design for prevent leaks from coolant hoses because they keep constant tension as things expand/contract.
To each their own, but i have had a number of the factory style clamps wear out over the years causing me to have to chase down small leaks that always turned out to be those clamps. I've never had a different style clamp "wear out" on me and leak. Actually the 1 clamp that is still factory on my car (Head to throttle body, head side) might be leaking... I've been noticing a coolant smell recently and thats the only one that i had some wet residue on my glove after wiping around the edges. If it is leaking its very minor though because i can't find a trace of coolant collecting anywhere around the engine.
QUE?? My car makes 20psi at 4k. You should be an easy 500-600rpms sooner with the 2.2 and mivec.
It makes what it makes. It only gets so good man. If cams, mivec settings, displacement, lucky rabbits feet and everything else added up like it does on the internet we would have 77psi at 3000 and make over a thousand on pump gas. LOL
At a certain point the engine can only move so much air at low rpm. It wouldn't be able to take much more boost. Compressor surge isn't a good thing.
To each their own, but i have had a number of the factory style clamps wear out over the years causing me to have to chase down small leaks that always turned out to be those clamps. I've never had a different style clamp "wear out" on me and leak. Actually the 1 clamp that is still factory on my car (Head to throttle body, head side) might be leaking... I've been noticing a coolant smell recently and thats the only one that i had some wet residue on my glove after wiping around the edges. If it is leaking its very minor though because i can't find a trace of coolant collecting anywhere around the engine.
I used worm drive clamps on the turbo water lines. Had me chasing leaks for months. Replaced everything, tstat housing to head gasket, all the hoses, the hard water lines that bolt to the turbo, rad hoses, everything. I put the OEM tension clamps back on the turbo water lines...no more leaks.
That's a ****ty weld for it to crack like that. You can see the weld cracked off of the tube. If it was a good weld, the weldment wouldn't crack. The tube itself would be broken at the weld.
Yes. This is the second time it had broken like that, No penetration whatsoever.
Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
awesome build! Everything looks really good, I would make one suggestion though. Replace the factory coolant hose clamps with either worm gear or t-bolt style clamps. Those factory clamps tend to fail. It looks like you still have pretty easy access to all of them so it shouldn't take much time at all.
Thanks Biggie! If I find any leaks, I will be replacing the clamps with either new factory springs clamps or t-bolts.
ALL parts have arrived! All parts have been installed!
The single problem so far was a small coolant leak coming from where the water neck meets the thermostat housing, but I fixed it and it was time for start up.
After following the instructions given by MAP and flashing my break in tune, the car started on the first try!
The lifters quickly silenced themselves after 30 seconds and I couldn't find any leaks after that. Steam filled the engine bay as oils burned off the exhaust manifold and turbo. Oil pressure was great and afr's looked acceptable. I had some friends over just in case something blew up and I needed someone to help me put the fire out.
It's been a long 6 months, but the wait is finally over. Now, hopefully, the work stops and the fun begins.
Boostin Ported intake manifold just unboxed.
View of the inside of the manifold after each runner inlet has been cleaned up.
Each runner ported deeply into the manifold.
After installing EGR system components.
+1mm Intake and +1mm exhaust valves. Cylinder bowls cleaned up.
Intake side ported all the way to the valve bowls.
Exhaust side needed new valve guides.
Inside the cylinder head intake side.
Top view of cylinder head right after unboxing.
Supertech dual valve springs, new keepers.
Attempting to get a picture of the valve seals, but failing.
L19 head studs installed into block hand tight with molylube. Block mating surface thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner and compressed air.
OEM head gasket installed.
Kiggley HLA installed. Head installed onto block, Studs were torqued to 96ftlbs in the following increments. 35-65-96
Lifters and rocker arms installed with plenty of Amsoil Break in 30 weight to go around.
GSC R2 billet cams installed and torqued to spec. Assembly lube all over the cams. BE CAREFUL when lubing the cam. I cut my finger on the MIVEC veins. They are sharp!
Cam Gears installed and torqued to spec. FIC 2150cc injectors inserted into manifold with AMS fuel rail.
Perfect camshaft and crank timing + tension.
FP exhaust manifold installed, Intake, and UICP. I had to remove the radiator to fit the manifold. Easiest way to do it without breaking things.
Spoolin up COP installed, CF accent pieces. Wire tuck in the future.
Manifold smoking as the engine heats up for the first time.
Will post dyno date after the break in process is complete!
I'd like to say thanks MAP and Boostin for their constant support and excellent communication. STM for getting any last minute items quickly and efficiently to me. STM and Extreme PSI have the best selection of OEM parts that i've seen for the evo 8/9.
I'd also like to thank the following evom members for their useful feedback and answering any questions that I had during this build.
-letsgetthisdone
-roni4g63
-Biggiesacks
-barneyb
You guys don't realize the headache that you have saved me.
Oct 21, 2016, 09:03 AM
Yes. This is the second time it had broken like that, No penetration whatsoever.
