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The clutch is in. I used an engine hoist to slowly pick up and maneuver the trans until I stuck the input shaft into the clutch disk. This ensures that you don't bend any clutch disks upon installation. Once I got the bolt holes lined up, I got it on the first try. I cannot say that this went without any self-induced stupidity. After installing the trans, I pushed the clutch fork against the driver side in order to lock the oem TOB into the monolock collar. It went in, but I did not hear an audible click that everyone describes. SO I started prying against the clutch fork with a crowbar and hitting it with my hand, cutting my hand against the trans. No click. Then I used a crowbar and both feet! No click. In the end I decided to just trust my site because it really does look locked in. I bled the clutch and pressed the clutch pedal about 100 times last night without the TOB popping out. Now i'm wondering if it's possible to damage the pressure plate by applying too much pressure to lock in the TOB.
I should be able to wrap up the installation tonight and get her on wheels by tomorrow.
On to the pics!
Pressure plate fully torqued in sequence
Running the STM one piece master to slave clutch line.
New slave cylinder with radium clutch fork stopper
Transmission side. Input shaft is lightly lubed with ACT clutch grease
Clutch Inspection hole. TOB is seated into Monolock
I finally stumbled onto your thread!!
now for bedtime reading...
I'm kind of in the same boat where I want to build a reliable high power car. Although I was thinking about a 2.2L for the higher rev limit. I may follow your build in the end, depending on how close this thread align with what I'm looking for.
Nice! Let me know if you have any questions. I feel that there is a lot to be learned from this thread, especially when it comes to learning from my mistakes
Those look to be OEM. The question I have is did you resuse them or not bc Ive always ordered new ones but question whether Im wasting my time.
Yah I have wondered this too. I was told by a reputable source that the bolts where torque to yield and not re-usable. However the FSM does not mark the bolts with the N for not reusable. I did re-use mine through the last 2 clutch jobs (so on the 3rd clutch) and haven't had any issues. I should add though that I hardly ever launch the car.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Apr 10, 2018 at 10:00 AM.
Quick question. I have not read your thread yet, but what flywheel bolts did you use and did you use loctite?
Originally Posted by heel2toe
Those look to be OEM. The question I have is did you resuse them or not bc Ive always ordered new ones but question whether Im wasting my time.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Those are OEM flywheel bolts. Replacing them isn't necessary.
Not sure what "longer" bolts you're referring to. The only app specific bolts are OEM and ARP, and neither rub anything..
Correct! New OEM bolts and blue loctite. I only had to buy new ones because I lost my old ones a long time ago, otherwise I'd say reuse the hell outa them. They only get torqued to about 13-15 ftlbs lol. Now with flywheel bolts....those I replace once every two times I remove the flywheel. They see almost 100ftlbs and have thin heads. They are not fun to extract once stripped and can destroy more than just the bell housing.
I used new OEM flywheel bolts and red thread locker. I want to check my clutch bolts(the low torque bolts) and hopefully you can access them from the inspection hole?
I used new OEM flywheel bolts and red thread locker. I want to check my clutch bolts(the low torque bolts) and hopefully you can access them from the inspection hole?
Yeah, you can see them from the inspection hole or remove one of the breathers on top of the trans to get a good look at it.
I used new OEM flywheel bolts and red thread locker. I want to check my clutch bolts(the low torque bolts) and hopefully you can access them from the inspection hole?
Yes you can, I had to loosen them up through that hole when i couldn't get my TOB to release on my last clutch job. At least thats the way i remember doing it.
Finally, finished skimming through your thread!!
I heard of people buying the wrong ARP bolts for flywheel and it caused clutch drag. OEM is good. I'll have to go back to certain posts to think about what setup I want to attempt to avoid your problems found.
Finally, finished skimming through your thread!!
I heard of people buying the wrong ARP bolts for flywheel and it caused clutch drag. OEM is good. I'll have to go back to certain posts to think about what setup I want to attempt to avoid your problems found.
Yes, please do not repeat any mistakes I have found. I think the biggest problem I found is with the Walbro 450 instrall. DO NOT use heat shrink in your fuel tank. I don't care what they say about it. I used adhesive lined fuel compatible heat shrink and it still came off. Use a fluid tight bulkhead fitting as I've shown before.
Yes, please do not repeat any mistakes I have found. I think the biggest problem I found is with the Walbro 450 instrall. DO NOT use heat shrink in your fuel tank. I don't care what they say about it. I used adhesive lined fuel compatible heat shrink and it still came off. Use a fluid tight bulkhead fitting as I've shown before.
RRE installed my AEM 320LPH pump. I think they reused the OEM wiring.
Apr 10, 2018, 08:57 AM
