EvoIX89

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Pics of carnage!

V.8MR

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Damn that's scary. Sure hope I dont have any similar issues. Doing BS delete(with stub shaft), new OEM belt, tensioner, pullys, etc in the next few weeks.

You believe your tension was too high? I didnt read but do you have your balance shafts still in the car?

trueheads

Love this log my man, so torn.... I adore the grey 9s, but it so hard to choose an evo let alone find one that interests me. Great build.

EvoIX89

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Yes my balance shafts are deleted, and instead of a stub shaft, I had the balance shaft cut down since it worked with the oil pump already for 70-80k miles. Curt Brown and myself think the tension was just fine since it went for 31k miles without any issues. but that HKS extra strong timing belt I had was too hard on the oil pump. The OEM 9 belt works fine.

EvoIX89

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Well decided to throw another OEM oil pump in the car with a stub shaft, and will probably rebuild my motor this up coming winter. Still not sure though. But
New oil pump, new auto tensioner, and new Evo 9 timing belt is all in and back together. So scary for the first drive! But to my surprise everything was fine, no noise, knocking, or anything. Made it to the e85 station and back home! Doing some high rpm pulls along the way.
I'll change the oil soon and see if any metal has accumulated.

Now to get some money aside for dyno time and some more wastegate springs on order.

yellowevo82

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Enjoyed reading about your progression.. keep up the good work

EvoIX89

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So I've slowly been collecting parts for my next turbo build. I'm still waiting to hit the dyno for my current setup but I also, kinda want to sell it and do the stock frame setup already.

But here are the parts I have so far. Just missing the rotating assembly:
Good MHI turbine housing all ported up, Evo 9 CHRA milled out for the bigger thrust hardware, 20G anti surge compressor cover, 4 inch intake, OEM exhaust manifold that needs ported, and some other misc stuff needed to put it on the car.

So this turbo will be identical to my current 20G just reverse rotation. 7 blade billet compressor with a td05hr turbine in a 9 blade configuration. Hoping for similar results. 450whp on pump gas and 500 on e85. And a ton more spool than the Forward facing setup. And if it doesn't do what I want, I'll be upgrading to the td06H turbine wheel, and if I feeling it, maybe even the FP stainless steel turbine housing for an all-out stock frame 20G.

EvoIX89

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Well, Forward facing kit is sold, just need to sell the turbo and radiator, but got a chance to mock up the new stock frame 20G!!! Hopefully be back on the road and getting tuned in July!

EvoIX89

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Alright, finally got my new 20G together and running! Through an Civic half radiator and fan in that I had laying around, and drove it today on gate pressure. Feels pretty good to have that instant spool back. Should be on the dyno next Thursday or Friday!

Also decided to change my catch can setup. I had the Buschur can which recirculated back to the oil pan. Was a nice idea but after all bad effects of e85 on oil, I switched it up. I moved it in front of the turbo on the passenger side, since I had a ton of room there, good use of space with not having a full radiator

EvoIX89

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little delay in getting my car tuned. Had to take a business trip to Dallas TX for a month, so won't hit the dyno until right before the shoot out
But the car is completely ready to go! fresh oil change and all.

Now that I've had to time while I'm here, I've been getting asked a lot lately what my 20G Flow rate is, and I always say 50+ lb/min simply because the 7 blade KTS compressor has made 538whp on my old setup which means it has to flow 50+, am I wrong in assuming this?

either way I've been researching way of testing flow rate while its on the dyno, I know the stock MAF's are pretty inaccurate, and I wouldn't want to base my claims on them, but I found a company called "Pro M" that specifically makes and calibrates Mass air flow sensors for mustangs that read on a 0-5v scale and converts it to lbs/min. They calibrate them to be with in 2% tolerance and have a 30 point graph sheet to go along with every MAF they sell.

This would be a stand alone MAF, that I would have a calibrated 12v power source applied to it, and 2 calibrated Fluke Volt meters that I would be reading with to make sure my volt signal coming from the MAF is accurate. I would place this MAF pre-turbo just like OEM, and the sensor that they sell is the heated element type.

I feel as though this would be a really accurate test, and of course measuring Intake temps at the MAF as well with knowing the altitude and baro for that day. Seems a bit extreme but I like testing stuff like this and I have yet to see any actual testing on the Billet 20G wheels being sold everywhere. If any one has data that they would like to offer, please share! or any opinion or concern on my MAF setup, id like this to be 100% before I purchase any equipment

Jaraxle

1.) Love this entire thread. I found it after you commented on my Evo X 20G "experiment" here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ett-kamak.html

2.) I love how you backed everything up with 1/4 times (and videos). Sick!

Last comment:

The TD05H STS 9 blade is the hidden gem of the EVO world. Period.

However, I am curious (nervous) how it would hold up under road/race stress. I say this because the turbine is made of 718 inconel which is lower temperature rated than 713C and also lower rupture resistance at temp. I have not had a problem, and neither have you; but 1/4 mile isn't that hard on the turbo (11 seconds for some of us! CRAZY fast!). I used to be heavy into HPDE at Watkins Glen and might get my EVO X there in the fall. That would be the first time of WOT for LONG durations with that turbine. With that said; the small-ish diameter of the TD05H STS turbine is a blessing for durability. Cutting to the chase: I am nervous that an STS turbine larger than the TD05H would not survive road/race stress due to the stresses induced by the longer blades and the material being inferior inconel 718 (versus 713C).

~Jaraxle

EvoIX89

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Thanks! I try to verify and test as much stuff as I can! even if I'm not running 8's this is a tremendous amount of fun for more and it fascinates me.

Now i Completely agree on the 9 blade td05H, its def the secret weapon of the evo stock frame world! Amazing for a drop in wheel, no machining required. Turbo Lab has a video comparing results between 2 Evo 9 20G's that use the 7 blade compressor. its a dyno sheet showing the poem 12 blade turbine VS the 9 blade turbine. no other changes and its a difference of about 50+whp. link below



Also I think the 9 blade 05h turbine will hold up quite well. Even though it cant handle the same exact temp the 713C can, the 9 blade also relieves a TON of back pressure compared to the OEM 12 blade, and that would bring the EGT's down as well.

Now I've built a handful of turbos using the bigger TD06H 9 blade wheels and they've worked perfect. I built a 25G, FP black, and EF4 all using that big 9 blade turbine. The relief in back pressure is in my opinion a huge stress reliever for the turbine blades so the difference in material isn't as important. I bet the Titanium td05HR 12 blade turbines that cam in the 6.5 TME turbos are weaker than these aftermarket 718's. See pics of comparison in the next post

After I run this 05H turbine 20G turbo this year, I plan on doing a Td06H 11 blade (identical to the FP red/black turbines) with the same 20G wheel and get a really good back to back comparison.

EvoIX89

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STS 9 blade TD06HR left. 11 blade td06h4R right.

EvoIX89

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Also I forgot! Before I left for my trip this month I took my car to the drag strip. Now I haven't hit the dyno, but the wheels are identical to what the car was tuned for and all my AFR's are perfect still while doing pulls. So keep that in mind.

Now since I had ECU boost before I couldn't hook up my GM 3 port or it would run ALL the boost so I threw on a Hallman MBC and got it dialed into to 23-24 psi on the way to the track. Only got 2 passes in but ran a best of 11.7 at 120 mph at 24 psi. AFR was 11.8 on E85. And my 60 ft was 1.70 on street tires. Not bad!!!! I'm running 3-4 psi less than my Forward facing 20G was at (and tuned for) (Forward facing setup ran 11.0 at 130 on 27-28 psi)
So far I'm very happy with it and can't wait to hit the dyno right before the Shoot out. I'd like to keep it as if I drive it every day, so boost only up to 30-32 psi and hopefully clear the 520whp mark. That should land me a solid 10.9 on street tires.

yellowevo82

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Liking the build thread!!