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Old Mar 27, 2018, 04:53 AM
  #61  
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Damn.. sorry to hear. Hope you find out what happened.
Old Mar 29, 2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by blackline
Spun a bearing on break-in....****ing bull****...I'll report back on the damage

Damn it that sucks! I'm sorry to hear about this. Looking forward to hearing about what happened. Hopefully the explanation is simple, but usually if a bearing spins during break in where the revs are not too high, boost is on wastegate pressure and oil is a little thicker, it could mean lack of oil pressure, incorrect bearing clearances, a bearing moved during final assembly etc. Either that or the bearing halves are not seeing enough crush, which would indicate the wrong size bearings or excessive wear to the rod/main bores.
Old Mar 30, 2018, 07:03 AM
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I was using brad penn break-in oil. Oil pressure was around 120 on cold start and 20-30 around warm idle. Kept a keen eye on OP and AFR. No boost but could hear it starting to spool close to 4k rpm. Looks like all the rod bearings were ****, main bearings also were done. Crank is toasted. Pistons have ****ty side wear. Rust was found in the bearings and I can assume this is what caused the issues. Waiting on the shop to let me know if the cylinder walls are good. I'm currently at 85.5mm bore and I'm hoping it doesn't need to bore to 86mm but If i need to it will get done. Don't think I had shavings as it was caught as soon as it happened.

Currently, needs new crank, rods, pistons, machine work, oil cooler, and oil pump. I'm might just go the 2.3L route.
Old Mar 31, 2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by blackline
I was using brad penn break-in oil. Oil pressure was around 120 on cold start and 20-30 around warm idle. Kept a keen eye on OP and AFR. No boost but could hear it starting to spool close to 4k rpm. Looks like all the rod bearings were ****, main bearings also were done. Crank is toasted. Pistons have ****ty side wear. Rust was found in the bearings and I can assume this is what caused the issues. Waiting on the shop to let me know if the cylinder walls are good. I'm currently at 85.5mm bore and I'm hoping it doesn't need to bore to 86mm but If i need to it will get done. Don't think I had shavings as it was caught as soon as it happened.

Currently, needs new crank, rods, pistons, machine work, oil cooler, and oil pump. I'm might just go the 2.3L route.
That's not fun at all. It'll be ok, just keep thinking about how good thing are going to be once this is fixed. If it's not one thing, it's another with these cars, but eventually they settle down so that you can actually drive them for a while.
Old Apr 2, 2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Pal215
That's not fun at all. It'll be ok, just keep thinking about how good thing are going to be once this is fixed. If it's not one thing, it's another with these cars, but eventually they settle down so that you can actually drive them for a while.
Pretty much, Alls I'm thinking about it track day in May...
Old Apr 2, 2018, 08:42 AM
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Such a bummer dude, sorry to see this! Who is going to build the new motor? Not for nothing but Sean (LGTD) called this fate back when you ordered your short block. Have they mentioned anything in regards to assisting with the rebuild? I dont understand why there would be rust present on the bearings. Also, if both rod and mains were toast that screams shoddy work as its not like you just lost one unless you first lost one which took out everything else. Either way hope you get it back up and running soon!
Old Apr 20, 2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by blackline
Pretty much, Alls I'm thinking about it track day in May...
OP, any updates on your engine? Best thing for you is to pull it apart and build it yourself. Don't waste anymore money on shipping or labor unless you absolutely have to.
Old Apr 20, 2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Such a bummer dude, sorry to see this! Who is going to build the new motor? Not for nothing but Sean (LGTD) called this fate back when you ordered your short block. Have they mentioned anything in regards to assisting with the rebuild? I dont understand why there would be rust present on the bearings. Also, if both rod and mains were toast that screams shoddy work as its not like you just lost one unless you first lost one which took out everything else. Either way hope you get it back up and running soon!

Yea man, I'm unable to get in contact with the person I bought it from so I'm going to press that anymore. Nor the shop or I know how rust was in there...

Originally Posted by Pal215
OP, any updates on your engine? Best thing for you is to pull it apart and build it yourself. Don't waste anymore money on shipping or labor unless you absolutely have to.
Update...My rods, pistons, and crank are toasted. My block just came back from the machine shop and GOOD NEWS, I don't need a new block or bore to .040..They holed, lined, ect and I'm at .020 over. New TT I beam, Wiseco HD pistons, crank, oil cooler, oil pump, and gasket kit were ordered. I would've pulled the motor and built it myself but I'm at the point where I just wanna drive this damn car. The shop is doing all the work and I should have it back in a couple of weeks. Down side is that I would make the May track day and I'm moving to a new job that 20mins from the shop..lol
Old Apr 20, 2018, 11:06 PM
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This sucks to hear...actually read.

Originally Posted by blackline
Spun a bearing on break-in....****ing bull****...I'll report back on the damage
Old Jun 14, 2018, 08:50 AM
  #70  
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**Quick update**

The car is now running and currently has 400miles on the new bottom end(break-in) . My final tune is scheduled for July 5th with ESPEC. I'll report back with final numbers and dyno sheet.
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