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Thank you! Its coming along that's for sure. Hopefully in the next month things will get crazy and I will start really making progress, that is assuming I even remember how the thing goes back together, lol!
As for the gold colored bolts you would be correct that traditionally grade 8 hardware mostly comes yellow zinc plated but it has nothing to do with the strength. If you've ever ordered bolts from say McMaster Carr you can get grade 8 or grade 10.9 in other finishes such as the clear zinc or I believe even a black oxide coating. Oh that reminds me my hood latch was looking rusty so I had the plating company black oxide coat that for me too.
I think the gold looks good but for me the biggest thing was cleaning up the hardware and then stopping it from rusting again. Originally I figured I would sand blast the hardware or get some Evaporust but then I didnt really know what to do after that. I was talking with Sean about it and he told me to have them plated and here I am now. So kudos to Sean once again for coming up with a brilliant idea, I owe him a or two...
Also, does your car even rust out there? WTF do you need to replate hardware for your cars are probably mint!
Metric bolts aren't grade 8. They're 8.8 (which is similar to SAE grade 5), or grade 10.9 (SAE grade 8). Bolt grade is generally determined by the markings on the head of the bolt.
Thank you! Its coming along that's for sure. Hopefully in the next month things will get crazy and I will start really making progress, that is assuming I even remember how the thing goes back together, lol!
As for the gold colored bolts you would be correct that traditionally grade 8 hardware mostly comes yellow zinc plated but it has nothing to do with the strength. If you've ever ordered bolts from say McMaster Carr you can get grade 8 or grade 10.9 in other finishes such as the clear zinc or I believe even a black oxide coating. Oh that reminds me my hood latch was looking rusty so I had the plating company black oxide coat that for me too.
I think the gold looks good but for me the biggest thing was cleaning up the hardware and then stopping it from rusting again. Originally I figured I would sand blast the hardware or get some Evaporust but then I didnt really know what to do after that. I was talking with Sean about it and he told me to have them plated and here I am now. So kudos to Sean once again for coming up with a brilliant idea, I owe him a or two...
Also, does your car even rust out there? WTF do you need to replate hardware for your cars are probably mint!
Nice! That gold zinc is my favorite color on bolts as well. At this point Sean should really consider opening up a storefront and starting his own Evo brand. His knowledge and connections are there for it!
As far as rust, the cars in Socal will usually stay rust free and the paint will stay perfect as long as they are garaged. It's a beautiful thing. The only time things rust out here is when stagnant water is involved or in areas of high humidity. Still, we see nothing compared to what you guys go through with all that salt and wetness.
Metric bolts aren't grade 8. They're 8.8 (which is similar to SAE grade 5), or grade 10.9 (SAE grade 8). Bolt grade is generally determined by the markings on the head of the bolt.
Yes, I am aware but thanks for stopping by we were just talking about you!
Originally Posted by Pal215
Nice! That gold zinc is my favorite color on bolts as well. At this point Sean should really consider opening up a storefront and starting his own Evo brand. His knowledge and connections are there for it!
As far as rust, the cars in Socal will usually stay rust free and the paint will stay perfect as long as they are garaged. It's a beautiful thing. The only time things rust out here is when stagnant water is involved or in areas of high humidity. Still, we see nothing compared to what you guys go through with all that salt and wetness.
It certainly looks nice but really I just wanted them to stay protected and I was told yellow zinc is great for that. It does look pretty nice too I must admit granted Im typically not a gold person. Now that I'll have a tubular manifold I'll be sure to pick up some complementary gold foil to complete the look LMAO!
Awesome thread. Looking forward to following the latest iteration of your build.
How did you find the zinc plating shop? I might call a few plating shops around here to see if they'll clean up brackets and hardware for me.
If you could go back and do it over again, what sort of rust prevention would you use? I've been considering fluid film every winter for my new truck, but I'm not sure if it really gets the job done.
I found this thread after reading your post about your tow strap in another thread. Do you have any photos of the tow strap installation?
Thank you! I ended up googling plating companies near me and then made some phone calls and settled on a place. I was originally going to have them Cadmium plated per the recommendation of a local place but then was warned against the toxic properties of it and decided against it in favor of yellow zinc. But yeah it really wasn't hard to find so get crackin!
Great question regarding rust prevention. Honestly, Im no expert on the topic but I think the concept is pretty basic. Any metal that is left exposed to the elements will oxidize. Even if the car doesnt see rain or salt there is moisture in the air so as time progresses it'll only get the worse. Our cars come with undercoating on them, at least mine had it sprayed on. The areas where undercoating was present as you'd imagine things held up fine. However, there are a lot of locations like in the wheel wells where it was previously undercoated but sand from the roads essentially sand blasted the coating.
What concerns me now is the rear suspension mounting points and all around the rear subframe. The actual subframe is fine since its AL but everywhere around it isnt looking good which will be something I need to address sooner than later.
Fluid Film is good stuff I've been using it on my tractor and it really does repel moisture. However, its something that you need to keep up with and high traffic areas will need to be sprayed more often. This is a similar concept to folks who would coat the underside with used oil. Both are very effective however, it makes a mess. When it comes to inner frame rails and lil nooks and cranies I dont think there is anything better than an oil based product to creep into the corners.
Now there are also more permanent rubberized type undercoatings. These can work really well and are more durable and should look better if you care about that. When I first got my car back when it was clean and rust free I should have got the car up in the air and treated the whole undercarriage with something like that. However spraying something like that after things are already starting to rust is just asking for trouble and probably doing a disservice as you now trap in the moisture so it looks fine but you've got a mess under the coating. A lot of this is common sense but my point is you need to figure out what makes the most sense to you. They make a lot of rust conversion products and some supposedly work well and others not so much. If the car is already rusty I think the best thing you can do is start grinding and get it down to clean metal then coat it.
Regarding the tow strap Ill have to look to see if I have any other pictures. It was pretty straight forward however just drilled the bumper beam and bolted on the strap. I actually had STM make me a chromoly beam like they normally do but had them drill a hole and sleeve it then weld that up for extra strength. Ijust received that in the mail so not sure how itll work out but imagine itll be fine. I dont think it takes much strength to winch a car onto a trailer. However say I were wreck it and need to drag the car up the trailer, that may pose more of an issue. Solution don't wreck your car.
Lol so close Joe! You have the correct shop but wrong engine. Inside is my original 4G63 block but inside it lies a 94mm K1 stroker crank 153mm Carillo Rods and ER spec custom Wiseco pistons which yields a something like a 2.15 or as we call it a 2.2
Cant wait to open it up and see what's inside. But even more excited to plop it on my engine stand and start bolting everything back onto it mate the head set timing etc and stab it in my car! This is a big day for me however so Im very excited!
This thread needs some updates! Sorry I've been MIA ended up taking myself out a few weeks ago with a tire iron to the head, whoops! So I've not really gotten much done as I was supposed to rest. But I have begun to chip away and start getting the engine back together.
I have a bunch of pictures to add to this thread and other little projects Ive been working on but Ill have to add that in later. But for now here is another teaser shot of the engine on the stand with the head mated and most of the timing components installed. Its starting to look like something!
May 4, 2018, 12:55 PM
or two...
What the heck is inside? Engine? Trans?
(2.4 liter BIG BLOCK ?)
