Notices
Project Cars and Build Threads Please post your build threads here.

06 MR - The Baby Hauler Build

 
Old Oct 4, 2018, 04:10 PM
  #16  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Why is it that everyone wants to race me? I dont drive crazy, I dont rev at people and I never instigate the race. I swear at least 1 car on the way to work and 1 car on the way home will try to race me everyday and its only an 11 mile drive! Today, it was a Evo X in the morning and then a newer v6 Accord at lunch time. This car draws way too much attention! The only other car I have owned that draws more attention then the Evo is my Bug and I can understand why.
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 6, 2018, 12:03 AM
  #17  
Newbie
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: LA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I remember seeing this for sale a while back, such a clean car. Look forward to updates, and I know what you mean about people wanting to race you. Ive had that happen on drives to work (3 miles away)
Shade08 is offline  
Old Oct 8, 2018, 04:04 PM
  #18  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
I made some progress and then went backwards.....




So ya, 3 port solenoid is in and not working like it should. No matter what I change, it stays at 10 psi. If I dont change anything from the 2 port tune, boost is a bit crazy. So it works but it doesnt....
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 8, 2018, 04:24 PM
  #19  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Pal215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,324
Liked 146 Times in 136 Posts
Hmm, i haven't seen that 3 port electronic boost control solenoid before. I used to have an ingersol rand ebcs that served me very well, then I upgraded to a grimmspeed. They both look very different than that.

Last edited by Pal215; Oct 8, 2018 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Just realized that's the GM-3 port
Pal215 is offline  
Old Oct 8, 2018, 05:56 PM
  #20  
kaj
Evolved Member
iTrader: (58)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 10,289
Liked 277 Times in 264 Posts
Bummer about the solenoid. Assuming it's plumbed right, time for a new one? I can vouch for Grimmspeed. Mine works well, if you decide to go a different route.
kaj is offline  
Old Oct 8, 2018, 09:18 PM
  #21  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
I dont think it's anything wrong with the valve or plumbing. It can go from 10-30 psi with the change of the calibration only. The issues is that I cant get anything in between 10-30. Its one or the other. So my bet is that I didn't do something right in the cal. Dont know. For the mean time, I put it back to stock. Dont know what I did but it's getting 3 psi more boost across the board now haha.
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 8, 2018, 11:10 PM
  #22  
kaj
Evolved Member
iTrader: (58)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 10,289
Liked 277 Times in 264 Posts
I'd have someone tune it asap. One wrong move and your replacing the shortblock.
kaj is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 10:42 AM
  #23  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Im trying not to have someone tune it. Tuning the car is easy, when everything works how it should. If the solenoid worked how it should have, the tune would have been done already. I did some data logs last night and all seems to be good even though the boost is up a little. I did have a few counts of knock but thats easy enough to fix. I am no stranger to tuning as I have tuned over 100 cars, its just the tuning software I dont know yet. I have also built over 300 engines so not worried about building another one either if it comes to it. Lets just say that I deal with 1500hp turbo LS engines all day long and have been doing so for 10+ years.

On a side note, say it does blow up for some odd reason, I have been talking to Manley about a sponsorship. Trip (the owner of Manley) is flying out here in a few weeks and is going to talk to me about it! It really helps knowing people haha.
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 11:36 AM
  #24  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Pal215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,324
Liked 146 Times in 136 Posts
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
Im trying not to have someone tune it. Tuning the car is easy, when everything works how it should. If the solenoid worked how it should have, the tune would have been done already. I did some data logs last night and all seems to be good even though the boost is up a little. I did have a few counts of knock but thats easy enough to fix. I am no stranger to tuning as I have tuned over 100 cars, its just the tuning software I dont know yet. I have also built over 300 engines so not worried about building another one either if it comes to it. Lets just say that I deal with 1500hp turbo LS engines all day long and have been doing so for 10+ years.

On a side note, say it does blow up for some odd reason, I have been talking to Manley about a sponsorship. Trip (the owner of Manley) is flying out here in a few weeks and is going to talk to me about it! It really helps knowing people haha.

If manley is going to give you free stuff, ask for the new version of their billet crank. I'm reading that they smoothed out the oil supply hole for the #4 rod bearing to prevent cracking. Do you plan on staying 2.0 or building a stroker in the future?
Pal215 is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 12:38 PM
  #25  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
I have heard about the 100mm cranks cracking due to the oil hole. I will try to get some info out of my rep to see what he has to say about it and the latest fix.

My plan was doing a destroked 2.4L which would end up being a 2.2L. So 2.4L block with the 94mm crank. I like my RPMs so the smaller the stroke the better.
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 01:53 PM
  #26  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Pal215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,324
Liked 146 Times in 136 Posts
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
I have heard about the 100mm cranks cracking due to the oil hole. I will try to get some info out of my rep to see what he has to say about it and the latest fix.

My plan was doing a destroked 2.4L which would end up being a 2.2L. So 2.4L block with the 94mm crank. I like my RPMs so the smaller the stroke the better.
That's the right way to do it. The next engine I build is going to be a 2.2L for sure. Just hoping this 2.3 crank lasts a few years first.
Pal215 is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 02:59 PM
  #27  
kaj
Evolved Member
iTrader: (58)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 10,289
Liked 277 Times in 264 Posts
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
Im trying not to have someone tune it. Tuning the car is easy, when everything works how it should. If the solenoid worked how it should have, the tune would have been done already. I did some data logs last night and all seems to be good even though the boost is up a little. I did have a few counts of knock but thats easy enough to fix. I am no stranger to tuning as I have tuned over 100 cars, its just the tuning software I dont know yet. I have also built over 300 engines so not worried about building another one either if it comes to it. Lets just say that I deal with 1500hp turbo LS engines all day long and have been doing so for 10+ years.

On a side note, say it does blow up for some odd reason, I have been talking to Manley about a sponsorship. Trip (the owner of Manley) is flying out here in a few weeks and is going to talk to me about it! It really helps knowing people haha.
That's all cool, but I was just commenting on the the fact that you aren't sure what's going on with the solenoid. Not knowing your background and just trying to be helpful.
kaj is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 03:44 PM
  #28  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
Originally Posted by Pal215 View Post
That's the right way to do it. The next engine I build is going to be a 2.2L for sure. Just hoping this 2.3 crank lasts a few years first.
Are you running a billet Manley crank in yours? If so, how many miles have you got out of it so far?

Originally Posted by kaj View Post
That's all cool, but I was just commenting on the the fact that you aren't sure what's going on with the solenoid. Not knowing your background and just trying to be helpful.
No worries man! I really do appreciate your concern. You are also correct that I have no idea whats going on with the solenoid. Thats why I popped it back out and went back to stock for the time being. Using my foot as a boost controller is not a good idea!
Lumpy Sticks is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 04:01 PM
  #29  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Pal215's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,324
Liked 146 Times in 136 Posts
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
Are you running a billet Manley crank in yours? If so, how many miles have you got out of it so far?



No worries man! I really do appreciate your concern. You are also correct that I have no idea whats going on with the solenoid. Thats why I popped it back out and went back to stock for the time being. Using my foot as a boost controller is not a good idea!

Correct, i'm currently using a Manley 100mm billet crank with almost 10,000 miles on it now. I don't launch the car, but I do use full throttle often, usually shifting at 7krpm but sometimes 7500rpm. The car is currently used for daily driving and weekend madness. If I had to do it again, I would build myself a 2.2 with a K1 or Winberg crank. Not sure how much better those are when compared to Manley or Eagle though. I asked my old tuner about that once and he said it's not just about the overall material strength of the crank, but also the tune(heat and MBT angle), environment, and driver input. Then of course there are rod ratios and crank balancing procedures that can help prolong the life of a crank, but I just wanted something as reliable as the stock crank that can handle 800 to 1000whp (insert audience laughter here). That is not the Manley. We should be only replacing worn bearings and piston rings over time, not engine blocks and hard parts.

Do you have a manual boost controller that you can use for now to up the boost until you can debug the GM ?
Pal215 is offline  
Old Oct 9, 2018, 04:42 PM
  #30  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Liked 33 Times in 31 Posts
I am a dealer for K1 so if Manley falls through, I will talk to them next. The only thing is that pretty much all cranks come from the same plant oversea. The only difference is that the final machine work is done here in the US at different places. I think Callies is one of the only one who uses US forgings but only on their top end cranks. Their Compstar series are the same thing as Manley, K1, Eagle....

I might have a manual boost controller laying around the shop. I know I have a couple Turbosmart solenoids (similar to the Grimmspeed) but I dont think that will solve my issue. I still think its something in the tune... If I do have a MBC laying around, would I just use it in place of the pill? More restriction = more boost?
Lumpy Sticks is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.