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06 MR - The Baby Hauler Build

 
Old Oct 15, 2018, 10:01 PM
  #46  
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Agreed.

And if I buy a GTR....
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 11:00 AM
  #47  
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GTR is next on my list to buy as well. They are finally getting affordable! I would really like a R34 but we will see about that.
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Old Oct 16, 2018, 11:44 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
GTR is next on my list to buy as well. They are finally getting affordable! I would really like a R34 but we will see about that.
I gave up on that idea, which is a shame because the 34 is my favorite car. Ever.
But at $50-60k now, I'm sure they will be asking $75k+, once legal.
Which is silly as it places the car or of reach for 90% of it's target market.
I don't mind over paying for a car I like, but within reason. That's why I haven't bought a 32, yet.
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Old Oct 18, 2018, 12:16 PM
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The woman is out of town with the kid so I can actually get some work done on the Evo! First thing up was to get my heater knob to actually turn all the way to hot. I got new gears and a cable, installed them and wouldnt you know, heater knob works again. Easy enough to fix. While I was there and the radio was out, I added a microphone to the radio. Now I can actually answer calls hands free in it! Not sure how good its going to work since the exhaust is so loud.

Moving on from the inside of the car back to the outside, I installed a MBC to attempt to pin point my boost issue. Well, that wasnt it. I talked to the guys over at Tuning Technologies and they do say I have something odd going on. So I am going to run a couple more test but if I cant figure it out, I will be dropping the car off with them.
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Old Oct 22, 2018, 03:19 PM
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Alright guys, since I have to tear deep into this thing, I want to add some stuff while I am there. I am not a fan of doing things twice. So while I am down there replacing the wastegate with a Trubosmart unit, I want to do an o2 housing and down pipe. I dont mind saving a few $$$ getting cheaper components but if its worth it to say spending an extra $100-200 for quality, its worth it to me. So the cheapest route I found was a Megan o2 housing and a M2 performance down pipe. Would be roughly $250. I have read that the o2 housing is not a true 3" outlet and I dont like that the DP doesnt have a flex coupler. The more expensive option ($475) is to get a Tomei (also matches my exhaust) which comes as a package with down pipe and o2 housing and is a true 3". It also has the flex coupler in the DP. Is it really worth nearly double the cost?
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Old Oct 22, 2018, 03:29 PM
  #51  
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If the downpipe bolts to the O2 housing with a donut gasket and springs/bolts, that allows for a bit of movement. Mine is really old and no cracks, etc on any exhaust component. I'd say a flex pipe isn't really necessary.
O2 housing being 3", maybe. Mine is 2.75" and could be causing a few WHP.....? I only picked it because it's easy to get to all the nuts and bolts LOL.
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Old Oct 22, 2018, 04:03 PM
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I wouldnt mind going to the 2.75" since I wont be making crazy power and if its easier to get to all the bolts, I am all for it. But every one I have seen in 2.75" is big $$$.

What o2 housing and DP are you running?
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Old Oct 22, 2018, 04:34 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks View Post
I wouldnt mind going to the 2.75" since I wont be making crazy power and if its easier to get to all the bolts, I am all for it. But every one I have seen in 2.75" is big $$$.

What o2 housing and DP are you running?
O2 housing is Titek. I had a Megan, but was having trouble getting the nut inside the "elbow" of the bend to get as tight as I'd like. It may have been okay, but using an open-ended wrench ... kinda sketch. I never felt like it was secured. I'm not after max WHP either, so didn't really care about going smaller. The only reason I'm guessing I'm missing out on a few HP is because my car always seems to make a bit less than other cars with similar mods and that's the only real reason I can think of
Downpipe: I *think* the seller told me it was a Megan. It's really hard to make a bad downpipe, other than shoddy flanges, IMO, so I don't worry much about brands, since it's just tubing. This one has a loose collar to work with the OEM exh mani bolts/springs, nice brackets for the hangers, and a nice, think flange on the cat converter end.
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Old Oct 23, 2018, 10:38 AM
  #54  
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I tried to find someone who sells the Titek but it looks like they are no longer in business?

On another note, I got my Turbosmart wastegate installed last night. Still having the same boost issues though....
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Old Oct 23, 2018, 11:10 AM
  #55  
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It's an old housing, so not surprised.

Have you looked at the flapper on the turbo to be sure it's not damaged? Maybe not sealing. Of course if that were the case you would have a seriously laggy boost curve. No damage to the comp wheel fins?
When you did the boost leak test, how long did it take the gauge to drop 1psi?

I don't know. This problem defies all logic.
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Old Oct 23, 2018, 12:16 PM
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Turbo looked and felt fine last night. No play, no damage and nothing leaking. I really dont think this is related to the turbo itself.

I made sure the flapper moved smoothly and it did. But I did not pull off the o2 housing to look at the flapper. But I assume its not the problem. Boost kick in very quickly.

Boost leak check - maybe I did it wrong? Took intake tube off turbo. Capped off turbo inlet, hooked up the air compressor to the cap (home made thingy), regulated the PSI until I saw 25 psi in the tubes and used soapy water to check all connections. I did not see how long it took to drop 1 psi. Just held the pressure and checked for leaks. The only hose I did not check was the one coming off the turbo going to the heat exchanger since I was lazy and did not feel like popping the under tray off. I am going to be pretty mad at myself if that ends up being the problem area.

I have a smoke machine here at work that I am going to hook up at lunch. It works pretty good at finding leaks. Ill let it run for a hour and see if anything starts smoking. If nothing, then another boost leak check will happen.
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Old Oct 23, 2018, 03:39 PM
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If it's dropping to such a low psi, you should have had trouble getting it to 25psi and definitely heard something. But maybe not. FWIW, I've had the coupling from turbo to j-pipe be the a problem area more than once. Since the clamps are kinda small, they don't seem to like being torqued more than once before I have to replace them. If that's the only place you didn't really get to check, then I'd go there. I know.. that undertray is a ***** LOL. But you definitely gotta get right up on those couplings to be able to check. Sometimes you can't hear the air but can feel it. I use bare hands and listen/feel while I wiggle all the couplings.
Last time I had a leak, but swore I didn't, I just took it all apart and reassembled with new clamps everywhere (I don't normally use t-clamps) and that fixed it. I was frustrated and just wanted it fixed
Good luck, man. This is silly and probably really frustrating for you.
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Old Oct 23, 2018, 04:47 PM
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This really is driving me crazy. Mostly the part that it holds boost just fine on the highway. Ill see if I can pop the tray off tonight and at least give it a quick look over. I can probably rig something up to do a boost leak test from the outlet of the turbo which would be a lot easier since I wouldnt have to pull the intake tube off again. But still, the fact that the boost drops to next to nothing, I should be able to find something very obvious, but I cant. Just to eliminate one more thing. a Turbosmart DV has been ordered.
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Old Oct 31, 2018, 01:45 PM
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Here we are a little bit over a week later and still having the same boost drop issue. I got the Turbosmart DV, put it on and the boost cut comes even soon. Looks like I got a bad DV valve after manually testing it. Its now back over at TS so that they can test it and verify its bad and I have no idea when I will get it or a new one back. Awesome.

In the mean time, as I am getting nothing done, I have been doing some shopping. A high flow cat and down pipe will be in my possession soon. That way at least I have an excuse to pop off the under tray and give it a good look over. It will also be nice knowing that I will have a true 3" exhaust all the way from the o2 housing back. Hoping the down pipe will also fix the rattle I have. Pretty sure its from the stock heat shield on the down pipe.

At that point, I am hoping to have figured out the boost drop issue so I can continue tuning with the new parts on. Honestly, if I still cant figure out the boost drop issue at that point, the parts cannon will be fired! And that means I will be starting with a HTA71, o2 housing, CAI, injectors, a Walbro and lower heat exchanger piping. Race season is approaching fast so I need to get this thing fixed!
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Old Oct 31, 2018, 04:18 PM
  #60  
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IMO, a licp is one of the first modd that should be done. The stock one really is THAT bad.
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