Mogli9000

Thanks for the positivity guys! I always appreciate a proper mentality when it comes to online stuff. Appreciate it.

I've never actually driven a flappy paddle equipped vehicle on the track before so this will be somewhat of a first. I did a canyon run with it prior to the build (on a 255) to understand the car a bit better. Oddly enough, I really enjoyed it.

In regards to the tire setup:
295mm comes out to 11.6" which is sufficient, but certainly pushing it. 295 would be the lowest and 315 would be my max. I will be testing with tires once the cars is finished. I have buddies running their best times on 315 square setups which I wanted to emulate for the time being.

The plans are to do basic shows, media, and unsanctioned events for the first 6 months to a a year.
(AKA Once the car doesn't look pretty anymore)

I am also having a custom set of wheels made in a 18x10 to run the 255's which won't arrive for some time now.
(3-4 month build quota)

They will be pretty negative offset so I want to see how increased track will affect the car over a basic setup. I've heard from many that the 255 tire limits the X immensely. Just gotta suck it up once the time comes.
I've built a bunch of cars prior, but never really took notice into the certain "money" specs for the car until now.
Luckily, I have a good platform which I will start from and then make adjustments until its perfected.

Rickenbacker198

just curious about the front? Is that steel? if so what made you decide to go that route versus aluminum which would be lighter? I guess for strength over weight. . . just curious.

Mogli9000

Once its finished, it will not be a truly dedicated 100% track only vehicle which is why I opted for the steel option. If later on down the road, things change and they most likely will. Then a new system can be made accordingly. As fas as the weight right now, its not too bad. Definitely a weight saver over the OEM factory option, plus it allows us to utilize it for aftermarket aero.

You are correct on the strength assumption. An aciddent would obliterate all the hardwork and money being put into this thing.

Falls under one of those "Would rather be safe, than sorry" type of things.

Mogli9000

Deadline is coming near!

The build is at its 80% "The button up phase"

Still have a bunch of small things left leading up to the tune and alignment day. Then Ultimately ending with the livery installation.

We are 3 weeks into the build now.

I have to stop posting as of right now until the reveal.

Thanks for following

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Wow Just went through the pic update. Amazing amount of work being done. Well done

Are we reading those rear wheel specs correctly 18x12 -32?

Mogli9000

Correct.

The rear widebody of this kit brings it out a total of 75mm over factory panels. Broken down into english will make that an effective 3 inches outward. Fronts are 2 inches outward.

So I calculated my specs from 18x10.5 +15's

Perfect fitment specs on Evo X:
(18x10.5 +15)
+ add 25mm
= 18x11.5 +15
(25mm effective)
+ add 25mm
= 18x12.5 +15
+ convert the .5 aka (13mm)
= 18x12 +28

18x12 +28 Front Wheel Specs
This is the formula for front sizing. The wheel company could only offer a +20 so I took it.

Which will be 8mm more aggressive for the fronts that I wanted so I spacered the front fender to allow air to flow from the top and give me a little bit more outward sizing. Maybe a few mm at most.


Rear Conversion Breakdown:

18x10.5 +15
- Remove .5
18x10 +2
+ add 25mm (1")
18x11 +2
+ add 25mm (1")
18x12 +2
+ add 25mm (1")
= Equals to 18x13 +2
- Reduce 25mm to bring down to 18x12

Final wheel specs : 18x12 -23

I ideally wanted -20 so I could adjust tire clearances, but I will have to go with the -32. Which is -9mm more aggressive than the -23 that would give me the desired fitment needed.