Mark this thread as Unsold
FS[Northeast]: 2005 Evo VIII MR Track Car
Jul 21, 2015, 01:00 PM
#1
2005 Evo VIII MR Track Car
It is with very mixed emotions that I’m putting up for sale the 2005 Evo VIII MR I bought new. The car was bought to be a weekend warrior, and was eventually converted into a Time Trial/Time Attack car. I’m selling to make room for a new track project.
The car has many new wear and tear items (rebuilt coilovers, bushings, brake calipers, 2.0 long rod motor).
Like many builds, there’s too much to list so I’ll include some highlights below and will gladly answer serious inquiries.
Car comes with an extensive spares package, including:
• spare body panels
• spare bearings/bushings
• spare brake components
• spare wheels and more...
VIN: JA3AH86D75U011517
Chassis/body mileage: ~40k
Color: Apex Silver with matte black 1/2wrap and carbon fiber
The car was tuned for its class to make about 330whp/305tq @19lbs of boost on 93 octane on a Mustang dyno. An extensive amount of time and energy has gone into building and maintaining this car and it shows.
ENGINE
- 2.0 longrod with 156MM Manley Rods and Wiseco pistons built by Automodz (2015)
- Balance shaft delete
- New oil pump, water pump, pulleys, etc
- Grimmspeed EBC (2014)
- Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors (2015)
- Evo 9 20G upgraded turbo
- Invidia o2 housing (2015)
- Converted to Speed Density
- HKS Air Filter
- ARP headstuds
- Upgraded Setrab oil cooler/AN lines
- CBRD radiator
- Kiggly HLA
- Custom catch can/AN lines
- Upgraded motor mounts
- Silicone rad hoses
- Grimspeed EBC included
- Invidia 02 housing
- Buschur FMIC
- Buschur IC pipes
- GReddy BOV
- Works Exhale 70mm downpipe
- Buschur Fuel Pump kit
- BR Magnaflow 3” exhaust
- BR 3” test pipe
- Ported and coated manifold
- Sun Hyperforce Ignition Amplifier
- Alcohol injection, which is currently deactivated so the car could run on just pump gas. Great for big power!
TRANSMISSION
- OS Giken twin disk clutch
- SS clutch lines
- Buschur solid shifter bushings
- 5spd conversion
- Torque Solutions Short Shifter
- Shep Rear Diff
- Buschur solid mount
- Aluminum Driveshaft
SUSPENSION
- Complete race suspension with Ohlins/Whiteline/Energy/WORKS parts
- Ohlins DFV (rebuilt in ’14).
- BR Mustache Bar
- Front Roll Center and Bump Steer kits
- Nagisa supports
- Works Croxx plate II
- Cusco camber plates
- Upgraded endlinks
- Works adj Rear Swaybar
- Cusco Pillowball bearings
BRAKES/WHEELS
- Set of Wedsport TC105N 18x9.5 wrapped in 275/35-18 Nitto NT-01 with about 90% life left
- Set of Enkie PF-01's 18x9.5 wrapped in 265/35-18 Dunlop Direzza ZII’s with about 80% life left
- RacingBrake 2 piece front rotors (3 seasons)
- RacingBrake 2 piece front rotors (new)
- Raysbestos ST-40 front pads
- Hawk DTC-60 rear pads
- Works stainless/kevlar brake lines
- APR extended wheel studs
- Wheel Spacers F&R
- RacingBrake upgraded front calipers with SS pistons and silicone seals
EXTERIOR
- Evo VTS-style carbon front bumper
- Evo VTS-style carbon hood
- Evo VTS-style carbon front fenders
- Custom Aluminum front splitter
- JDM rear bumper
- Demonwork rear lightweight bumper crash beam
- Kognition 68" CF rear trunk mount wing
- APR CF mirrors
- Speedworx Tow Hook
- Power kill switch on cowl
- 3M wrap by AppliedGraphics
- Rolled and pulled rear fenders
INTERIOR
- Sparco Steering wheel
- Works Bell quick release
- Bell shorty hub
- Upgraded pedal set
- AMS weighted shift knob
- Doors whole and still have power windows
- Racequip 6pt cam lock belts
- Defi boost, EGT and fuel pressure gauges
- AEM Wideband AFR guage
- Longacre Mirror
- Sparco Evo Seat bracket w/ slider (Dr)
- 8pt cage w/ legal swing out bars by MTK
- Battery relocation to trunk (running stock Miata battery)
- A/C Removed
The next project was low budget, weight reduction!
I have parts receipts, etc.
About $100k was invested into making this a very fast, highly competitive, turn key track car. I’m asking $33.5k 0r $36k with my steel open trailer (tilt and ramps!) which includes a tire rack and tool box (recently serviced/new tires).
The car has many new wear and tear items (rebuilt coilovers, bushings, brake calipers, 2.0 long rod motor).
Like many builds, there’s too much to list so I’ll include some highlights below and will gladly answer serious inquiries.
Car comes with an extensive spares package, including:
• spare body panels
• spare bearings/bushings
• spare brake components
• spare wheels and more...
VIN: JA3AH86D75U011517
Chassis/body mileage: ~40k
Color: Apex Silver with matte black 1/2wrap and carbon fiber
The car was tuned for its class to make about 330whp/305tq @19lbs of boost on 93 octane on a Mustang dyno. An extensive amount of time and energy has gone into building and maintaining this car and it shows.
ENGINE
- 2.0 longrod with 156MM Manley Rods and Wiseco pistons built by Automodz (2015)
- Balance shaft delete
- New oil pump, water pump, pulleys, etc
- Grimmspeed EBC (2014)
- Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors (2015)
- Evo 9 20G upgraded turbo
- Invidia o2 housing (2015)
- Converted to Speed Density
- HKS Air Filter
- ARP headstuds
- Upgraded Setrab oil cooler/AN lines
- CBRD radiator
- Kiggly HLA
- Custom catch can/AN lines
- Upgraded motor mounts
- Silicone rad hoses
- Grimspeed EBC included
- Invidia 02 housing
- Buschur FMIC
- Buschur IC pipes
- GReddy BOV
- Works Exhale 70mm downpipe
- Buschur Fuel Pump kit
- BR Magnaflow 3” exhaust
- BR 3” test pipe
- Ported and coated manifold
- Sun Hyperforce Ignition Amplifier
- Alcohol injection, which is currently deactivated so the car could run on just pump gas. Great for big power!
TRANSMISSION
- OS Giken twin disk clutch
- SS clutch lines
- Buschur solid shifter bushings
- 5spd conversion
- Torque Solutions Short Shifter
- Shep Rear Diff
- Buschur solid mount
- Aluminum Driveshaft
SUSPENSION
- Complete race suspension with Ohlins/Whiteline/Energy/WORKS parts
- Ohlins DFV (rebuilt in ’14).
- BR Mustache Bar
- Front Roll Center and Bump Steer kits
- Nagisa supports
- Works Croxx plate II
- Cusco camber plates
- Upgraded endlinks
- Works adj Rear Swaybar
- Cusco Pillowball bearings
BRAKES/WHEELS
- Set of Wedsport TC105N 18x9.5 wrapped in 275/35-18 Nitto NT-01 with about 90% life left
- Set of Enkie PF-01's 18x9.5 wrapped in 265/35-18 Dunlop Direzza ZII’s with about 80% life left
- RacingBrake 2 piece front rotors (3 seasons)
- RacingBrake 2 piece front rotors (new)
- Raysbestos ST-40 front pads
- Hawk DTC-60 rear pads
- Works stainless/kevlar brake lines
- APR extended wheel studs
- Wheel Spacers F&R
- RacingBrake upgraded front calipers with SS pistons and silicone seals
EXTERIOR
- Evo VTS-style carbon front bumper
- Evo VTS-style carbon hood
- Evo VTS-style carbon front fenders
- Custom Aluminum front splitter
- JDM rear bumper
- Demonwork rear lightweight bumper crash beam
- Kognition 68" CF rear trunk mount wing
- APR CF mirrors
- Speedworx Tow Hook
- Power kill switch on cowl
- 3M wrap by AppliedGraphics
- Rolled and pulled rear fenders
INTERIOR
- Sparco Steering wheel
- Works Bell quick release
- Bell shorty hub
- Upgraded pedal set
- AMS weighted shift knob
- Doors whole and still have power windows
- Racequip 6pt cam lock belts
- Defi boost, EGT and fuel pressure gauges
- AEM Wideband AFR guage
- Longacre Mirror
- Sparco Evo Seat bracket w/ slider (Dr)
- 8pt cage w/ legal swing out bars by MTK
- Battery relocation to trunk (running stock Miata battery)
- A/C Removed
The next project was low budget, weight reduction!
I have parts receipts, etc.
About $100k was invested into making this a very fast, highly competitive, turn key track car. I’m asking $33.5k 0r $36k with my steel open trailer (tilt and ramps!) which includes a tire rack and tool box (recently serviced/new tires).
Last edited by 4cdndctn; Aug 19, 2015 at 07:39 PM.
Jul 22, 2015, 06:02 AM
#3
Thanks, I priced it to move so I can jump onto the next project. I'm sure one of my Evo buddies in the NE who I track with would be interested, except, well, they all have Evos already!
Just for reference, here are some times the car can do ALL DAY LONG with just NT01's....
LRP: .58's
NJMP-L 1:11's
NJMP-TB - 1:31's
WGI: 2:06's
Just for reference, here are some times the car can do ALL DAY LONG with just NT01's....
LRP: .58's
NJMP-L 1:11's
NJMP-TB - 1:31's
WGI: 2:06's
Jul 27, 2015, 12:27 PM
#5
More Info
^^ Thanks
I’ve received some PMs, and just wanted to get some more info out there, based on questions I’ve received.
Q: Who maintains the car?
A: The Shop in Norwalk, CT.
Q: Were any shortcuts taken with the build?
A: Absolutely not.
Q: If I bought the car today, what I need to do if I wanted to take it on track tomorrow?
A: Everything is ready to go down to tire pressure; the car is in excellent condition.
Q: Is the car streetable?
A: Seatbelts were removed and harnesses were installed. There is a cage. The catalytic converter was removed, which is detectable only by physical inspection as no code will indicate its absence. The answer depends on the state and the driver.
Q: Is that design paint?
A: No, it’s vinyl; and underneath it the car is Apex Silver with carbon fiber hood, fenders and wing. It’s high end vinyl, which comes off easily without much if any residue.
Q: Can the car be auto-x’d and drag raced?
A: It is well setup for auto-x as is. For drag racing, you’d probably want a bigger turbo and to active the already installed alcohol injection kit for 2 reasons. 1, it can help you achieve more power and 2, this kit is designed to progressively add alcohol under certain AFR, EGT or knock conditions to preserve the motor from catastrophic failure. The drivetrain can take whatever you throw at it.
Q: Do you have to sell the car?
A: No. It’s taken a long time to build what I think is an amazing TT/Time Attack car and now I’m working on another project. I considered keeping it at a track in the south for the winter and heading down once a month, but decided my wife would probably kill me if I turned this hobby into a 12 month endeavor!
Q: Why buy this cars over others?
A: Did you not see my build list and the pictures?!?! All the high dollar consumables are within a year old and have only a few days of driving on them. The low dollar consumables also have only a few days on them. Most track cars are sold when some significant investment is anticipated; I’ve already made the investment. It’s bad timing on my end; my loss is the buyer’s gain. I’m ok with this because the project I’m working on now was basically the same deal. If I can help an enthusiast get a great car to the track, I’m going to do it.
I’ve received some PMs, and just wanted to get some more info out there, based on questions I’ve received.
Q: Who maintains the car?
A: The Shop in Norwalk, CT.
Q: Were any shortcuts taken with the build?
A: Absolutely not.
Q: If I bought the car today, what I need to do if I wanted to take it on track tomorrow?
A: Everything is ready to go down to tire pressure; the car is in excellent condition.
Q: Is the car streetable?
A: Seatbelts were removed and harnesses were installed. There is a cage. The catalytic converter was removed, which is detectable only by physical inspection as no code will indicate its absence. The answer depends on the state and the driver.
Q: Is that design paint?
A: No, it’s vinyl; and underneath it the car is Apex Silver with carbon fiber hood, fenders and wing. It’s high end vinyl, which comes off easily without much if any residue.
Q: Can the car be auto-x’d and drag raced?
A: It is well setup for auto-x as is. For drag racing, you’d probably want a bigger turbo and to active the already installed alcohol injection kit for 2 reasons. 1, it can help you achieve more power and 2, this kit is designed to progressively add alcohol under certain AFR, EGT or knock conditions to preserve the motor from catastrophic failure. The drivetrain can take whatever you throw at it.
Q: Do you have to sell the car?
A: No. It’s taken a long time to build what I think is an amazing TT/Time Attack car and now I’m working on another project. I considered keeping it at a track in the south for the winter and heading down once a month, but decided my wife would probably kill me if I turned this hobby into a 12 month endeavor!
Q: Why buy this cars over others?
A: Did you not see my build list and the pictures?!?! All the high dollar consumables are within a year old and have only a few days of driving on them. The low dollar consumables also have only a few days on them. Most track cars are sold when some significant investment is anticipated; I’ve already made the investment. It’s bad timing on my end; my loss is the buyer’s gain. I’m ok with this because the project I’m working on now was basically the same deal. If I can help an enthusiast get a great car to the track, I’m going to do it.
Jul 30, 2015, 02:21 PM
#7
Thanks for the continued questions and support
More from PMs
Q: What type of radiator is in the car?
A: CBRD (I'll update the build info)
Q: Has it ever overheated?
A: No
Q: Is a transponder included
A: A transponder is currently on the car but wasn't listed. It's negotiable
More from PMs
Q: What type of radiator is in the car?
A: CBRD (I'll update the build info)
Q: Has it ever overheated?
A: No
Q: Is a transponder included
A: A transponder is currently on the car but wasn't listed. It's negotiable
Trending Topics
Aug 19, 2015, 07:44 PM
#8
I was asked about the long rod build. We used 156MM Manley rods and Wiseco pistons. The decision to go long rod, but not traditional stroker, was based on rev range, balance, and longevity for road course. The motor feels great having been broken in and only run hard for 2 days.
Aug 19, 2015, 08:18 PM
#10
You're right about street cars being easier to sell. In my 11 years here, I've watched countless people buy cars on the cheap, then attempt to build them into competitive cars for drag, auto-x, hillclimb, rally or road course, then regret the cost of the build. There is no great, cheap way to build a car unfortunately. I really enjoyed this build, but building any car, especially an Evo, is a very financially upside down investment. Since they can be bought for $.30 on the $1, it's the way to go. That said, it sure would easier to sell a street car!
May 12, 2016, 07:44 AM
#11
TTT. Had a few people look at the car and make offers that just didn't make sense for me.
Fresh motor, turbo, brakes (calipers, pads, rotors), coilovers. All these parts have less than 3 days on them. The car sat in a climate controlled garage all winter and was just taken out on a private road; all is perfect.
This takes a lot of risk out of buying a track car!!
Fresh motor, turbo, brakes (calipers, pads, rotors), coilovers. All these parts have less than 3 days on them. The car sat in a climate controlled garage all winter and was just taken out on a private road; all is perfect.
This takes a lot of risk out of buying a track car!!
May 13, 2016, 07:58 AM
#13
I picked up an IMSA raced e36 last year to try something new, never had RWD for the track. It's very hard to drive both of them, totally different styles, so to keep the Evo really doesn't make sense if I want to try to be competitive with the BMW.
It's not easy letting the Evo go, that's why I've been so passive with it; it's an awesome build. Plenty of good times with the car, it'll make someone a very happy driver/owner.
It's not easy letting the Evo go, that's why I've been so passive with it; it's an awesome build. Plenty of good times with the car, it'll make someone a very happy driver/owner.
