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Ferodo DS2500 pads?

 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 08:04 AM
  #16  
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After reading a good FAQ article on Stoptech's website I think I can assume that my "warped rotor" problem that has only begun recently is actually just pad deposite from the "soft" stock brake pads.

The advised to have the rotors cleaned-different than resurfacing, and switching to a harder, semi-metallic pad. I assume the Ferrodo DS2500's would fit the bill? Anyone know the best place to buy these?

Sorry to take this thread slightly off topic...I think I brought it back nicely though Can anyone confirm that my assessment/solution/line of reasoning is correct?

I haven't tracked my car or let the hot pads sit on the rotor after a long or aggressive stop...so I really think it's just deposits. Any input or similar experiences/solutions would be great! Thanks!
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 08:50 AM
  #17  
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raceshopper.com has the best pricing on the 2500's.
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by lithe
After reading a good FAQ article on Stoptech's website I think I can assume that my "warped rotor" problem that has only begun recently is actually just pad deposite from the "soft" stock brake pads.

The advised to have the rotors cleaned-different than resurfacing, and switching to a harder, semi-metallic pad. I assume the Ferrodo DS2500's would fit the bill? Anyone know the best place to buy these?

Sorry to take this thread slightly off topic...I think I brought it back nicely though Can anyone confirm that my assessment/solution/line of reasoning is correct?

I haven't tracked my car or let the hot pads sit on the rotor after a long or aggressive stop...so I really think it's just deposits. Any input or similar experiences/solutions would be great! Thanks!
Yep, it's a "material transfer" problem. You can clean them (or cook them clean) by heating them up to the point of light fade and then slow the car to a stop using no brakes if possible, you must coast the last foot with out ANY brake then kill the car in gear (no hand brake) and let it cool all the way down (1/2 hour or so). Now drive away and your "warped" rotors have magicly straightened . You can repeat this as many times a necessary over the life of the pads. Next time get some Ferodos/ Hawks/Pagids which don't have transfer issues
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:20 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Noize
Yeah, I talked to raceshopper.com over email. Really nice guys. Would you guys definitely do the rears as well, or just fronts? Andrew told me my pads felt a bit thin, and I pulled the wheels to check them last evening. The rears look great, but the fronts are thinner. Thoughts?
If you got good brake balance now don't put different pads front and rear unless you really know what you are doing.

Different materials not only have different friction coefficients but the rate of increase/decrease in response to heat varies which can then increase/decrease braking one one axle and result in erratic handling (less of an issue with ABS).

Also if there is advanced pad wear you will transmit more heat into your fluid which is bad news foer hard use.
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:21 AM
  #20  
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Thanks for the info Chronohunter and 4G63>0000!

I'll give the repeated hard 60-0 stops "cleaning" method a try And plan on Ferodo DS2500 pads for replacements in the future.

In case it becomes an issue...would the Stoptech slotted or drilled stock-size front replacement rotors be a good idea in the future? Or would it be kinda unnecessary unless going to one of their "big brake" kits? Just curious.

Thanks again!
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:28 AM
  #21  
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Rotora's are cheaper, I think...
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 4G63>OOOO
Rotora's are cheaper, I think...
and we all know that cheaper is better
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #23  
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I love my DS2500s! They are a very good alternative street pad. I got mine last year from Vividracing for around $100.
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by lithe
After reading a good FAQ article on Stoptech's website I think I can assume that my "warped rotor" problem that has only begun recently is actually just pad deposite from the "soft" stock brake pads.
One good way to tell if your rotors are warped or if you are having a pad material transfer problem is this:

while braking pay attention to where the vibration is coming from, typically it works like this:

If the vibration is in the steeringwheel you have warped the rotors

if the vibration is in the brake pedal it is a pad transfer issue.

(in extreme cases you wont be able to tell, but this way if it is a simple bedding/pad transfer issue you can use Chronohunters "technique" to help cure the problem)
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:24 AM
  #25  
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Well now I'm worried...the steering wheel is where the shaking is coming from. Only when braking from high speeds-like 60 mph or more.

I know I've been careful with my rotors though...I don't see how they could be warped already (I have less than 5k on my Evo). I guess I'm skeptical it's not just pad deposit. I guess I'll have to take it in to the shop...

Thanks for your evaluation!
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:35 AM
  #26  
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dont get too nervous...... it could still be pad deposits. Does the vibration go away after repeated hard stops (ie when the brakes are hot)?
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:05 AM
  #27  
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I don't know if the shaking goes away with repeated hard stops...I'm gonna give that a try after work I think.

Thanks for everyone's replies!
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ogvw
and we all know that cheaper is better
I'll let you know if I warp them. Still haven't toasted the stock rotors, so that may be a while.

I don't see the need to go with a 2 piece setup when I can get the Rotora's for less than stock rotors and I usually do 3 sets of rotors a year with track events and hard driving, etc.

Cheaper may not always be better, but if you're looking to go faster by making your wallet lighter, be my guest.

Joe
President and Founder
Cheap *** Motorsports
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 4G63>OOOO

Cheaper may not always be better, but if you're looking to go faster by making your wallet lighter, be my guest.

Joe
President and Founder
Cheap *** Motorsports

Let him know wassup Pizzo
Old Jul 2, 2004 | 10:48 AM
  #30  
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I am using the ferodo 2500s and am very pleased with them. I am having a problem though. I peeled off the OE metallic shims using a chisel and got some ultra high temp cooper gasket sealant and reused them on my 2500s and am experiencing the following problem. The shims are metallic and were impossible to flatten after peeling them off. I did the best I could and hoped for no problems.
1. reusing that oe shim made a 30 minute job into an 1.5 hour job. It was a pain getting them off and a pain flattening them out (actually impossible) and a pain sliding them back into their housing on the calipers because they were considerably wider with the shim being slightly wrinkled.
2. Good news: No squeal of ANY kind while breaking! Of course, I lubed all parts with good anti squeal lubricant.
3. Bad news: On occasion, I'll be driving down the road and I'll hear a slight brake squeal while not using the brakes. If I hit the brakes and let off it will go away for a while but then come back. Eventually it stops but it can go on for as long as 20 minutes straight. I believe that the problem is that the OE shims did not properly adhese to the back of the pads and are slightly lifting off causing the pad to have an overall increased thickness and therefore pushing up against the rotors. As soon as I get time, I'm taking those OE shims off.

If anyone thinks they know why I get that squeeking, please chime in.



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