^^ Apply it before you leave home, take the time and follow the directions well. A proper application lasts more than 3 months.

 

AFR's in the 16 & 17's at idle...?

Well, it lasted nearly three years:

 

Damn... so what is the plan to get it running again? And what happened?

 

Looks like it was just heat related metal fatigue? Is that your downpipe?

 

Yes, my down pipe, and I agree, 900+F would fatigue metal for sure. As far as what to do, when I get back from MD, where I'm at currently, I'll remove the down pipe and take it to the shop that fabbed it for me and have them do their magic.

 

I noted that my AFR gauge was reading in the 16's at idle, and having trouble maintaining 14.7 a few days ago. I've never had this issue before so it obviously got my attention. After getting my brain "gears" to engage I thought, "(10) is rich, and (17) is lean so, what would be causing it to read too much air, or not enough fuel? Well, a boost leak would be not enough air, so that would make it would go lean...ruled that one out. What about fuel injectors going bad? Then I started drawing a blank, until I recalled that at the other end of this AFR gauge is a sensor who's tip is inside my exhaust pipe and it reads the mixture of air and fuel in the exhaust. So, if there is a lack of fuel in the mixture, it'll read lean. Hey, wait, the exhaust gases contain the AF mixture so, if there's an exhaust leak, there's less gases passing over the tip of the sensor, thus reading mostly atmosphere, or air! And you know that "exhaust leak-like" sound you're hearing from under the exhaust manifold Gary? Well, that was the ticket, and I began the search for the source of the exhaust leak I was hearing. As usual, I couldn't find the darn leak, but now I was also starting to become overwhelmed by the gases in my face...it HAS to be here somewhere!

After my son's last day at school presentation I popped the hood to see what I could see now that the engine had cooled and low and behold, I saw a white-like ash inside the V-band flange on the WG cover. I had my son turn the car over, and while holding my hand in front of this, I felt the tell tale leak of air in my palm. I did some more driving on it and by the time I got home, rolled down my window, and pulled into the garage, I could now hear the brap, brap, brap, of a larger leak coming from under the hood. I got a flashlight... and the rest his history.

 

I'm booked for two free sessions at the track in the Poconos of Pennsylvania on the 14th, and another back at NJMP in Jersey on the 22nd. I'm going to cancel the Pocono's right now. Time and money will tell if I'll be ready for NJMP!

 

What type of metal did they make that down pipe out of?

 

The distal, straight part of it was my 2.5" SS, but the not sure about the rest of it...recommendations?

 

I would say stainless steel. But with that adapter or whatever on the end you might need a mild steel for the first few bends. Ive also heard of several cases where heat wrap is suspected of causing metals to fatigue and crack. Even one scenario where two guys ordered the same manifold at the same time. Installed them. One used wrap the other didnt. The wrapped one ended up cracking. So maybe ditching the wrap would be a good idea too.

 

lean at idle is usually a tell tale of an exhaust leak before the sensor...especially if you accelerate lightly as to stay in close loop, and the readings are normal...

 

I'm going to delete my AC afterall, it's just too much trouble getting this downpipe off, and then back on again...it shouldn't be this hard...

Question: What's the easiest DIY way to evacuate the refrigerant from the AC lines safely?

My plan:

1. evacuate, disconnect and remove the AC compressor

2. configure, fab, and install new downpipe with proper bend and V-band flange

3. measure new Serp belt path (anyone already know what size belt I need?) and install.

 

I got this from Club4G:

"I got rid of my A/C. It revs out a little faster. Went down to a 58.5 inch belt."

The EVO guys are saying a 57 - 59" will work for them.

 

Using the DIY A/C servicing hose, connect to the low pressure, and open the valve slowly...it will take a long time to empty. try not to blow out too much oil...

I used a 59" belt, but went on the wrong side of the idler pulley...I think if I opened the tensioner up more, I could have maybe slipped it to the correct side of the idler...

 

I don't need to do the same to the high pressure side, or are they connected?