I currently Have 17x9 inch Enkie RPF1 +35mm offset with 255/40/R17 tires all around on my car. In The front I'm running a +25mm Spacer to clear the breaks.

The tires slightly rubs on the inside of the fender liner at full lock and I cant stand it any more even though its just slightly.

What would be the best wheel offset to run to fix this issue? I want to keep running 17x9 but I really don't want to run spacers any more either.


Thanks!

 

Well, what we're dealing with is a wheel w/an effective offset of +10 which is certainly on the wild side. The only saving spec is the 9" wheel vs running a 9.5

Now, if the liner rub is minor, why dont you heat gun the liner & slightly massage it out of the way? If not, some just let the tire burn through on its own

As an example, I purposely chose 2 different 17" wheels that dont require spacers. My street set up is 17x9.5 +30 Rota P45 & my track set up is the Advan RGII 17x9 +29
There are other wheels that fit proper w/out spacers. (i.e. Buddy Clubs & 5Zigen, Weds, Volks, etc) (BTW, I run 275/40's)
Also, wondering what ride height you are set at? If youre too low up front, that will certainly make the situation worse.

 

What wheels have some of better break clearance? Te37, CN28?

 

Not the Volk expert, but 2 of the popular set-ups are:

18x9.5 TE37 +22 (no spacer) (tough to fit but doable if you do the necessary rear fender work)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...37-thread.html

CE28N 18x9.5 +34 (no spacer, but is very close to caliper) (this would be my choice)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...8n-thread.html

 

Would TE37's in 17x9 +22 fit? I kind of want to stay with 17 inch wheels.

 

Heres a pic w/that setup (not sure about front spacer). I layed this out on the calculator w/the following notes:

If you go w/a 255/40 tire you will need to treat the rear fender to a 3/4 fender roll & a slight pull at the rear of the fender. Also, the rear bumper bolt needs to be relocated

+22 is a very difficult wheel to fit. The one thing that helps this situation is the 9" wheel vs a 9.5". If you go w/a 245/40 that will help & may eliminate the need of a pull but a flat rear fender roll will be needed & the bumper bolt will still be needed to be moved

 

So what would be the best offset to run these wheels or should I just do the fender work? I'd like to get some wheels that fit without all the extra work.

 

Your best offsets for minimal fender work are between +34 & +38

Here are some good choices:

5zigen FN01-RC 17x9 +35
Buddy Club P1 QF 17x9 +35
Volk CE28N 17x9 +35
Advan RGII 17x9 +29 (I run these w/275/40's) (rear fender work needed) (See pic below)
17x9.5 +38 Enkei NT03
17x9.5 +30 ROTA P45R (I run these w/275/40's) (rear fender work needed)

 

been thinking about getting a 17x9, didn't realize how specific it'd have to be to avoid rubbing, brakes, etc. i'll have to check the ce28n thread to see what 17x9 fits w/ 255/40-17s

 

Thanks for all the help so far your knowledge on wheels is beyond what most people I've talked to know

will Advan RG-D fit like the RDII? or is there something different beside the dish?

 

Yes, looks like the RGD is certainly part of the RG series wheels & have a large curved spoke sweep for caliper clearance. As you know they are spendy, But they are very light & can be run w/out spacers. That why I used them at the track

BTW, there are more than a few guys here that have more experience. I actually do this for work, so customer service just comes naturally =)

 

I have exactly same problem, you said I can use heat gun massage it out of the way, how to do that? If I removed the inner fender is it a bad thing to do?

 

Topic discussed here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11683447

 

Thanks, I think I'm differently going to do the RDG 17x9 +29. Hopefully there will be a black Friday sale of some sort. haha

 

Minus,

Can you help me understand - when looking at two wheels, 17x9 +25 and 17x9.5 +32, as far as I can tell it sounds like from owners the 17x9.5 will actually fit better than the 17x9 +25, on the same tires. How does that work? Or is that not right? 0.5" is about 13mm, so let's say half of it contributes to the "outside" part - 6.5mm. so I gain 7mm pushing the wheel back "in" with the 17x9.5, and I lose 6.5mm pushing the wheel out based on the width of the wheel itself. isn't that going to be nearly a wash?

I'm on the stock 17x8 BBS wheels right now on 245/45-17, and I barely have any space between the coilover springs and the tire itself. How does that work?