I beat the living crap out of every new 4g63 I have owned from the day I drove it off the lot. Two brand new Talons never had an ounce of trouble from either of them related to what I would consider break in.

The two EVO's I have bought new were broke in the same way. They were driven hard home from the dealerships and then converted to FWD and put on our dyno.

I believe in hard break in. Look at the hundreds of race engines we have built. We don't drive those for a mile to break them in let alone 500 miles. They are built, started, checked for leaks and either put on the dyno or taken to the track.

The wear on the engines when torn down are virtually nothing.

Just my opinion.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I broke in my EVO hard.....

My car was a showroom display model and I know a lot of fat A$$es must have sat in it before my skinny behind did, but what the heck when I picked up my car it was flawless....
drove it home with PDI miles and immediately swapped in conventional 10W30 motor oil.
I broke in the clutch gently, but on the engine, I would go in a lot of stop and go traffic to vary to revs, and I would also do a lot of rolling WOT runs to redline in 2-3rd gears....

Car runs strong and doesnt burn oil at all......so that at least tells me that the rings are sealed properly....

 

I did some serious research before breaking in the '03 and could find no convincing evidence of any one method as being superior. That being said, I did have the advantage of putting a load on it every time I drove it as I had to climb a mountain/big hill to get home. So low rpms with a load, which is what I believe the Moto method is trying to teach. Either way it worked on not only my '03 Evo, but my SVT Focus as well with 151 to the wheels, as strong a number as you'll see from an SVT Focus. The '03 Evo was either 236 or 246, I can't remember right now. Both were tested stock with drop-in air filters as the only change.

 

Dave and everyone else, my thoughts exactly

 

Rule of thumb i've heard from several engine builders out in Cali

Break it in hard, it's gonna run hard

Break it in like a b***h, and its gonna run like a b***h



they tell you to break it in for a 1000 miles for unknown reasons, once that motors started, within the first few minutes the pistons rings have seated, so if theres gonna be a problem, you'll know right then just my .02 cents, (if i'm wrong, oh well, this was what i was told)

 

I didn't do any hard braking for 400 miles and I kept the RPMs under 5K for the first 1000 miles or so (though I did accelerate hard up until the 5K mark, just to experience the boost). The salesman told me to not exceed 65 MPH for the first 1000 miles. So without really thinking about it, I drove 65 MPH from Huntington Beach Mitsubishi to Fresno (250 miles). Looking back, that was unnecessary. I don't think that there is a MPH limit during the break-in, just an RPM limit.

 

Short bursts of acceleration up to 5k and drove in various speeds.

 

My dealer said "drive that thing like you stole it..." We have an 5 year warranty and that means that we trust this one... Put don`t take any lanch starts at the beginning... let is break in first...

 

+1

My motor's being dropped into the chassis a few feet away from the dyno, then upon first ignition, it'll be broken in on the dyno immediately afterwards.