yes, while there are many teams that run those three wheel makers, there are just as many that run lots of other wheels manufacturers including SSR. You don't honestly think every team in Japan uses Volks exclusively?

 

^personally I dont follow racing in Japan.

 

When looking at a race setup, weight is key. Any opportunity to reduce weight, and more specifically rotating weight, needs to be taken advantage of. If you got the loot, my first choice is Dymag. They are expensive, but extremely light. As for size I would keep the diameter of thr wheel down. 17" or 18". There is no benefit to going for big rims on a race track. In fact all huge rims will do is damage your performance and kill your lap times. Just simple physics...
Check out the dymags...

 

The stock BBS wheels are light and strong.... not riced out .... and 255s are a nice fit on them. Unless there is a reason to go with 18s like a BBK then stick with 17s.

 

so how much do these suckers cost?

 

No offense but I strongly discourage using Dymag wheels for motorsports.
Buddy Club P1 QF, Racing Hart CP-035R and Volk CE28N vary around 0.2-0.3lbs in 17" or 18"

Dymag 17 x 8 is 12.9lbs, Buddy Club P1 QF is 13.6lbs
Dymag 18 x 9 is 14.0lbs, Buddy Club P1 QF is 14.8lbs

Dymag is carbon fiber, with forged aluminum or magnesium hub, which means they will shatter upon impact. If you drive on public road with a lot of potholes, your wheels won't last few miles. It was said by Dymag themselves that these wheels are mainly for shows and should not be used for racing.
I know Koenisegg CCX / CCX-R has these as standard but I am almost certain there would be some disclaimer on the usage upon purchase, just as you have to sign some sort of EULA when purchasing the sports package (using A048 tires) for Elise/Exige and E46 M3 CSL (I think it was some sort of R compound Michelin tires).

 

The two most popular wheels used on the evo in motorsports are the 5zigen Fn0-rc and the Enkei Rpf1.

They are both widely used because they have proven to take the abuse, are relatively light and do not brake the bank on original purchase and when needed to be replaced.

You have to ask yourself in case you bend or crack a wheel at the track is it readily available and at reasonable cost.

 

gotta agree with Jeff.

unless you're doing time attack or club racing or something that you need every last 10th from every lap the stock 17" BBS's are the most ecocomical choice. they are pretty cheap, very strong, very light weight and 17" tires are cheaper then 18" to replace.

 

go to a hpde school before going to r comps
ive been doing it for almost 9 years now and with many cars or differing setups
street tires first, it also helps keep your speed down so you dont go barreling into a barrier on your first day out and you have an instructor with you. oem tires are amazing on the track for what they are...too bad they arent available in more sizes

 

Enkie RPF1's 17x8 or 17x8.5 or 17x9 in stock offset work great with 255/40/17s. I run the 17x8 and would prefer a slightly wider tire to help control some of the sidewall scrub I get.
Dan

 

I don't have any experience with Dymag wheels, but do you? Carbon fiber wheels are new to cars, but have been used on motorcycles for years. I would imagine anything that would crack carbon fiber would also been aluminum as well.
Dan

 

It is not the bending/twisting and the cracking from it that is dangerous, this is not an issue because carbon fibers are extremely strong interms of bending and twisting. Would you rather be rolling and braking on crunched aluminum wheels from 100mph hoping to stop or do you want to be sliding with the bottom of your car because the wheels are gone?

Get a panel of carbon fiber (such as our wing) and get a panel of forged aluminum. Try standing on them and put heavy things on them, and you will notice that both will hold well. But try getting a hammer and start pounding down, and see what happens to the carbon fiber panel.

 

To all who are curious... Based on Dymag's literature:
Cast Magnesium
Dymag has been manufacturing cast magnesium wheels since the company was founded in the early 70's, during 30 years of manufacturing, Dymag has produced wheels for an extremely diverse range of applications including :
Formula One
Indy Car
F3000/FF2000
Paris/Dakar Rally
TVR
Marcos
All forms of motorcycle racing from early wheels in the 70's used by Barry Sheen & Eddie Lawson, though to today's superbike applications


These rims are not flimsy or prone to breakage. Companies like Mosler, TVR, McLaren, and Koenigsegg are not going to risk their reputations on something as critical as wheels failing. These rims are also the preferred choice for those who race motorcycles. If anyone has had experience with these rims and having them fail as described in previous posts I would really like to hear about them.

4Trouble - where did you get the documentation for the weight on those rims you mentioned?

 

the stock BBS's suck for a forged wheel. they are relatively heavy when compared to other wheels of the same size, and they are weak as well. while driving through a construction zone, a truck in front of me threw something into the path of my front driver's side wheel (one lane on a bridge, no way to dodge, no time to slow down) and to this day i don't know what it was...all i know is that it flattened the tire and bent the rim. i couldn't believe the rim was bent...it's a FORGED rim. i had a set of Volk SE37K wheels (17x7.5 14.2lbs each compared to 17x8 BBS 17.8lbs each) and i put those wheels through hell. hit pot holes, curbing, curbs, you name it, i did it, and never cracked, chipped, or bent the wheels. there was only one wheel with a scratch on the lip. the rest were still perfect after 60k plus miles on the wheels. i say go volks and don't look back. CE28's, or RE30's. those two wheels in 18x9 only weight 17.2lbs compared to the BBS wheels 17.8 in 17x8 size, and i'm sure they are a lot stronger than the BBS wheels.

 

^ You are out of your mind. The BBS wheels are strong as hell. I went of track and managed to hit the backside of a corner curb at well over 70mph. The wheel, coil over, and lower control arm all took some brutal punishment. However the rims stayed together and allowed me to maintain as much control as possible. Any other wheel would have been in pieces.