Chrushev

Hi guys, I have a 2003 Lancer (90k miles).

I was sitting idling in it today in a parking lot in the hot California sun (hot and dry, was 90 degrees in the shade, not sure about temp in the sun). This was right after a drive, so the engine warmed up from driving.

All of a sudden my AC turned off and I noticed that the temp gauge was pretty close to the red mark (probably like 95% there).

I popped the hood, and checked the fans. they were on (both of them). My coolant is at "Full" according to the expansion tank meter.

Is this normal? AC was set to max (so recirculating inside) and fan speed was set to 2.

Side question - does fan speed effect things like heat? Or is the electrical difference is so little that it wont make the engine work any harder? Also if the overheat hits the red mark will some safety feature kick in? Is there a light? Or is the car going to basically heat until the gasket blows off.


Edit:

After it cooled I checked coolant levels under the cap, seems fine, i can see the top of the coolant about an inch down. And the expansion tank shows full.

Fired it up with no AC on. Heat got to the normal point half way up and stopped. Seems like AC is essential.

Hmm this is weird.. has anyone experienced this?

Edit2:

Also, my heater works well. Does that mean the pump is working? Should the radiator be hot to the touch? It is not hot when the fans are on. Probably feels about the same as if the car was off. Where the fans dont cover (very corners) it is a little warmer. And the hoses (at least the top hose) is hot enough to where you wouldnt be able to just hold it.


SOLVED: Ended up fllushing the old coolant out of the engine block and radiator and did Prestone Radiator flush for 30 miles/30min driving city/freeway. Then did flushes until only water was in the system. Then drained it all (1.5 gallons fit in there, I managed to drain about 1.25). Then put in Zerex Asian Blue 50/50 premix (here is a pic- http://imgur.com/a/rVCgH). And I also replaced the thermostat.

No more overheating issues, sat in the parking lot with AC on full blast for a while. Arrow is a tad below half way point and solid.

EdT

Replace your thermostat and make sure your coolant is a 50/50 mix.
Water is the best coolant there is, too much concentrate of coolant will not cool as well.
Make sure your water pump is working, do you feel the coolant is going through the rubber hose ?

If I recall there was a technical bulletin on the '03 for the replacement of the electronic cooling fan controller that is located on the backside top of the radiator.

"COOLING FAN CONTROLLER
SERVICE CAMPAIGN BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): SC-07-001, Date of Issue: March 01, 2007
MITSUBISHI: See below

PURPOSE
NOTE: This Service Campaign supercedes SC-04-005, issued September, 2004, to remove Outlander. Refer to SC-07-002 for Outlander Campaign instructions.


Due to a manufacturing problem, a solder connection in the cooling fan controller may crack, causing a short circuit in the controller. This condition may result in engine overheating. To eliminate this condition, replace the cooling fan controller on all affected vehicles, using the new, improved parts listed in this bulletin.

NOTE: Dealers are encouraged to contact those owners in their area who have not yet had their vehicle repaired for this condition. In the Mitsubishi Dealer Link, under service/systems, refer to e-reports/open recall list.


AFFECTED VEHICLES
2002-03 Lancer models produced before July 2003

2003 Lancer Evolution models produced before July 2003

PROCEDURE
Remove the air intake duct.
Loosen the clamp at the intake hose connection to the throttle body.
Disconnect the air flow sensor underneath the air cleaner. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the fan controller and remove it.
Fig. 1: Identifying Lancer Fan Controller And Evolution Fan Controller
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

Install the appropriate new fan controller listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin.
Re-use the original fan controller bolts or screws and tighten to the specified torque:
Bolt: 3.92 - 4.90 Nm (2.9 - 3.6 in/lb)

Screw: 2.94 - 3.92 Nm (2.2 - 2.9 in/lb)

Connect the fan controller harness to the new fan controller.
Reinstall the air cleaner assembly and tighten to 8.0 - 10.0 Nm (5.9 - 7.4 in/lb).
Tighten the clamp at the intake hose.
Reinstall the air intake duct.
Start the engine. Turn the A/C on and off to confirm proper operation.
PARTS INFORMATION
Use the Genuine Mitsubishi Parts listed below.

PARTS INFORMATION
Description Model Part Number
Cooling Fan Controller Lancer 1355A053
Cooling Fan Controller Lancer Evolution 1355A052


WARRANTY INFORMATION
Claims for this campaign must be entered as type "C" claims. Sample screen are shown in the following.

Cooling Fan Controller Replacement

Campaign Labor Operation: C0409ZXX

Time Allowance: 0.3 hr. - Lancer, 0.7 hr. - Lancer Evolution

Header Section 2002-2003 Lancer and Lancer Evolution Cooling Fan Controller
Fig. 2: Campaign Information
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

NOTE: In some instances, it may be necessary to arrange towing and/or to provide a temporary rental/loaner vehicle to a customer. Please use the entry fields at the bottom of the campaign claim's labor section.


Fig. 3: Bottom Of Campaign Claim Labor Section
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

CLAIM EXAMPLE: REPLACE COOLING FAN CONTROLLER
PARTS SECTION: REPLACE ONLY THE ALLOWED COOLING FAN CONTROLLER PART
Fig. 4: Claim Example - Replace Cooling Fan Controller
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

LABOR SECTION: LABOR TO REPLACE THE COOLING FAN CONTROLLER

Fig. 5: Service Warranty Claim - Labor Information
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

Fig. 6: View Of Sample Owner Letter
Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.

Chrushev

Its the same coolant thats been there since radiator got replaced in around 2009. How can I tell what the mixture ratio is? Only way is to drain it and fill with new?

Also, which hose do I need to check for flow? Where is it located?

Lastly the bulletin issue, it says the solder cracked... but that would stop the fans form working right? My fans do turn on and run. So probably not the issue?

Edit - looking through my maintenance records it looks like I had water pump replaced in 2013 (4 years ago). Im assuming that required coolant replacement? Or no?

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

OP seems to have checked everything obvious. And its not coolant strength or fan controller.

The final item to consider is the water pump. The water pump impeller ( the "fan blades") actually erodes and wears down over time, so the pump cannot circulate coolant at a high enough rate. This is typically what the problem is when older cars overheat.

Get a new water pump installed.

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

Absolutely not normal, if the coolant is from 2009 im sure its not doing its job to its potential, so cheap and easy to replace it!

EdT

With the defective controller the fan does not "always" go on or goes on intermittently. So if you are driving in the city and there is no air movement and your fan does not go on your engine will overheat.

To check the flow there is a large rubber hose coming from the rad to your engine block. Turn on your heater to max and wait 5-10 minutes and the thermostat should open up and start flowing. You can feel the coolant going through the hose and it will be warm to hot.

To check proper coolant mixture, invest yourself a coolant tester for a whole $6 bucks which will serve you a lifetime ! ...LoL
With a cooled engine open up the cap on the rad and insert the tester and follow the instructions that came with the tester.

Your coolant needs to replaced anyways, normal coolants last 3 years and extended coolants last 5 years. The electrolytes in the coolants are all used up and will corrode your rad. Always replace with the right coolant for your Mitsu, do not use regular Prestone which contain silca(sand) or you water pump will have a shorter life.

EdT

Water pumps are designed to leak if they are worn out, there are leak holes at the bearing gasket. If there is a leak the check coolant light will come on.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

I'm saying if the impeller is worn away or its corroded and filthy in there, then it is not effective at moving coolant, causing overheating.

You are bringing up impending failure of the pump due to excessive coolant leakage past the weep hole near the bearing seals. OP says no leaks.

Point is, change the water pump.

Chrushev

hmm well I was going to get a new car later this year (waiting for 2018 models). Whats the worst that will happen if I do nothing? It doesnt overheat under normal driving conditions, only when sitting in a hot parking lot at noon when the sun is blazing and from what I noticed only if Im boxed in (no wind). Because Id rather not put any money into this one not knowing exactly what the issue is since Im going to replace it soon.

Chrushev

Looking through my maintenance records it looks like I had water pump replaced in 2013 (4 years ago) and about 25k miles ago. Im assuming that required coolant replacement? Or no?

Also, my heater works well. Does that mean the pump is working? Should the radiator be hot to the touch? It is not hot when the fans are on. Probably feels about the same as if the car was off. Where the fans dont cover (very corners) it is a little warmer. And the hoses (at least the top hose) is hot enough to where you wouldnt be able to just hold it.

The car never overheats or even goes above the "normal" mark when driving. Only when stopped/idling.

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

Radiator not hot? That's new to me..

Chrushev

Which coolant should I use? According to this Silicate should be ok? http://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-gl1...?action=thread

Would something like this be better? http://imgur.com/a/NUEN3

Chrushev

Ended up fllushing the old coolant out of the engine block and radiator and did Prestone Radiator flush for 30 miles/30min driving city/freeway. Then did flushes until only water was in the system. Then drained it all (1.5 gallons fit in there, I managed to drain about 1.25). Then put in Zerex Asian Blue 50/50 premix (here is a pic- http://imgur.com/a/rVCgH). And I also replaced the thermostat.

No more overheating issues, sat in the parking lot with AC on full blast for a while. Arrow is a tad below half way point and solid.