bsbllfit7

Hey everyone I've got a guy locally with a 4g64 stock crank, r&r steel rods and wiseco Pistons. I'm trying to decide if it is worth it to purchase as the price is good but the crank will not be used, and the Pistons likely can't be used either. Here are all pictures of the journals and the wear when removed from the block. In worried about what looks like heat marks on the rod journals below where the bearing would be. Please share your thoughts on if these would be usable.

bsbllfit7

A little follow up, I called Mike at R&R rods and he says that the rods dont look bad at all and the black marks are typical. I also took these pictures to the machine shop I will be using for the work and he reiterated that statement. Outside of measuring the current bore to ensure I can use the block, and measuring the rod length, is there anything else I should check prior to purchase? New Crank and Pistons will be purchased so the block and rods are all I am looking at utilizing.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Block and rods look OK to me. Like you have been told, the bearing bores of the rod look typical.

bsbllfit7

So I just need to verify current bore diameter when checking out before purchase correct?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, make sure it's not already on the largest safe size.

bsbllfit7

So I want to see something 87.00 mm or less for the current bore correct?

Justokream

send it!!! haha but cylinders dont lookbad

bsbllfit7

I would rather be on the safe side and have the bores taken care of and honed to allow new rings to seat properly. New Pistons would be necessitated by this as well.

aurigagt2

wow, those bearings are washed out (but im no expert)! from the pics, the bearing journals look good allthough the builder would likely line bore it if Im not mistaken. make sure to check the thrust bearing journal as well, make sure the bearing cant move around at all when its captured in there as thats one thing the shop cant fix.

rd122481

iTrader: (4)

When reusing rods, ALWAYS USE NEW HARDWARE! New ARP hardware is probably going to be around $300. You also might want to use new wrist pin bushings, another $80. Also, have the rods checked for twist/bend. Basically, you might want to seriously consider buying new. Ask your engine builder what he prefers.

Good luck!

bsbllfit7

You are talking to the engine builder and the machinist felt very comfortable using those rods again. The block ended up being no good and I returned this one in the pictures for a different one. The main bearings appeared to have been spun and ruined the block. Everything is dropped off with the machine shop and will be machined in 2-3 weeks.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

That's weird, the main bores looked fine in pics. I guess its hard to tell until you measure stuff.


New rod bolts isn't a bad idea. New ARP2000 bolts are like ~$110 IIRC. Small end bushings can be measured for clearance with the new wrist pins, ask your machine shop to do it for it you. They should be .001"-.0011"

bsbllfit7

The mains definitely had a spun bearing, you could feel the material on the sides of the material where it squeezed itself out and to the side. Also there were high spots and low spots within the bores as well which is what we noticed first. New block is g2g.

I messaged R&R on the rod bolts and they said the rod bolts outlast the rods and to run them. Also quoted me the torque specs of 45 ft lbs with the ARP ultra torque lube. These bolts are custom made for their rods I guess.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

That sucks on the block.


I didn't realize the rods were R&R, so yeah, they probably use expensive custom bolts similar to how Carillo does. Manley just uses ARP2000 so a new set is cheap...lol

bsbllfit7

All good the block was already bored to 87mm on the original block and the new one was under 86.5 so I feel better running to 87mm for the bore. It all worked out and I saved 50 bucks going to the new block.