so I recently bought a jdm evo 7 Gsr with acd/ayc, I bought the car from another province, test drove the car before buying and all was good, towed the car back home, dropped it off first thing at the safety inspection shop so I could get the car insured, upon getting the car insured and picking it up from the shop i drove it home from the shop, just as I was leaving the shop the car started to make a extremely bad buzzing/vibration from the front of the car after , I had to slow the car down to less then 5kmh and then it stopped, started driving again and then the same thing, I shut the car off and restarted it, same thing, it’s now two days later and I’ve tried to figure out what it is the best I can but I need a sense of direction. I’ve found that this horrid buzzing or vibration comes on randomly at any speeds or when you just hit the right bump or something, totally random and intermittent an can strongly feel it in the steering wheel and pedals as well as hear it . I was sure that this buzzing had sounded like the abs pump going on and not stopping till it detected wheel speeds less than 5kmh or shutting the car down, I tried pulling the 60a abs fuse, still did it, tried unplugging the abs module and still doing it, I’ve found that when this buzzing vibration comes on it does not interfered with any of the cars system as far as come on, the brakes don’t feel like the abs is pulsating them and the cars steering is fine as well as the engine continues to run drive and idle fine. For example i could be driving at 60kmh and this loud vibration will start suddenly at this time I put the clutch in while coasting and nothing changes, put it in any gear and nothing changes, build boost and accelerate and nothing changes, the vibration stays consistent the whole time until I shut the car off or stop it. I’ll also note that I had a friend in the car with me last night and we were listening outside the windows when we got it to start vibrating like this and it sounds like more dominantly the right side of the car, also the car drives totally fine other than when that starts happening.
the guy I bought it from was daily driving the car and he says nothing like that has ever happened to him. I can’t barely drive the car down the road a few blocks without this happening, is it possible the safety guy broke something from just removing the wheels to inspect and measure brakes? I’m in need of a sense of direction, I haven’t jacked the car up and pulled off the wheels myself yet and was planning on doing that today.

just joined his great forum and am not sure where to post this thread so my apologies if I’m in the wrong place. Thanks!

Towed it on a flat bed

Update : was driving again at 60kmh bad buzzing vibration started, out car in neutral and coasted with engine running still getting the same sound, shut ignition off, sound stops (still coasting), turn ignition back on but not engine and no sound (still coasting about 50kmh), put clutch in and start engine, sound comes back right away before I could even release the clutch in neutral(still coasting) I did find the reservoir in the trunk that reads ATF SPII was above the max line when I was warming the car up, and after it first made that noise today the fluid level dropped to below minimum. I have the car jacked up and the wheels off, no signs of any leaks from any of the driveline components.
Any info or direction on this would be greatly appreciated !!!

Update: I was driving down to my shop to pull the belt off to check my pulleys and on the way I found that while driving in second gear about 2000rpm just on the throttle to keep it going steady and if I turn my AC on the car gets very heavy resistance, to the point that I have to put my foot at least double into the pedal to keep it going. I stopped the car and at idle I turned the AC on again and the car died at idle, I will say that I’m also experiencing abit of a unsolved boost leak possibly from the throttle body right now so that could play a factor. Anyway on the drive to the shop the loud vibration came back again and at this time I turned the AC on and the buzzing slowed down the slightest bit and changed in sound quite a bit deeper and this is the first time I’ve found something that made the sound change in anyway.
got to the shop jacked it up pulled the belt off, found the tensioner pulley has a substantial amount of play, not much roughness at all but I would estimate almost a 1/16” of play total back and forth play, the AC compressor pulley has about half as much play, not enough to measure but you can feel it click back and forth. I’m also wondering what the Ac compressor is supposed to feel like while the belt isn’t attached cause I’m also concerned as to why the car shuts off and feels like there is so much load on the engine from just the Ac compressor, it blows cold air so I’m pretty sure it’s working although it’s -10C outside right now. The last owner said the air conditioning worked great in the summer. When you spin the outer part by the belt not the pulley I can feel the compressor spinning but it’s not consistent it feels like resistance sometimes and than almost free spin as I keep spinning it with my hand, is it supposed to feel that way cause it’s the compressor making pressure as it’s supposed to or should it spin consistent ?
So is it likely that the play in the tensioner pulley could be causing this vibration ?

Update: changed tensioner with new, found that brand new tensioner has just about same amount of play s
but I replaced it anyway. I’m leaning towards a problem relating to the air conditioning, every time I turn the AC on the car dies, I can put my foot into the pedal to keep it running but as soon as I let off it dies, I’ve tried unplugging the AC clutch, unplugging the AC fan, I even unplugged both 30a fuses and both relays under the hood and the 7.5a fuse under the dash all at the same time ! STILL SHUTS OFF AS SOON AS YOU HIT THE AC BUTTON ������ I even have both electric fans unplugged. I’m absoluteley stumped and frustrated.

Yes still getting the vibration, I’m starting to think it’s an ecu problem, I do know the last owner had done something with it to have the CEL flash when the engine detects knock

I have all the tools to remove it if it’s a physical part but it sounds like it would be worth getting someone to run over the tune and verify everything’s okay or will be able to change what need be, I’m doubtful that will fix my vibration problem though