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Hello everyone! first off...after about 14 years I finally bought myself an EVO 8, but I have a couple questions and issues with it.
I'll list the mods below, but first I've owned several turbo vehicles so I think I have already ID'd the problem but I wanted others to see if my diagnosis is correct, or offer any recommendations.
The car sometimes dips below 500 rpms and wants to die when just cruising around town/side streets, this doesn't happen all the time, but occasionally when shifting out of gear and into neutral coming to a stop it sometimes starts to hesitate and stalls. The car came with a Forge TYPE RS BOV that is open vent, but it was tuned by English Racing in 2016. I believe the valve is what is causing the issues and sometimes not shutting at these idle rpms causing intake pressure to vent, and the engine to stall.
The car makes incredible power and runs really great in every other situation. 0- xxx mph, etc. so I do not think this is related to a mapping issue. My belief is that the BOV will not stay fully shut when the engine is under vacuum at certain times. Also, I don't know if other variables like atmospheric changes can cause these issues either, since this car was tuned in Portland, and its now in N. Idaho. Or something where more vacuum is being pulled by the HKS cams causing the BOV spring to not be able to hold the valve shut under vacuum.
Questions 1) The Forge TYPE RS BOV does come with this "uprated RS spring", I haven't ID'd if that is currently whats installed, but if it does have this heavier spring in it already what are my alternatives? shims? another bov? 2) If I do need to get a different type of BOV will this effect the tune in any way that is currently on the car? 3) After hearing all this, what is the likelihood of the car actually having a vacuum or boost leak?
I haven't done much tinkering with the soft-hard settings on the BOV, I do know that it is +2 full turns away from maxing out the hard setting from the way I received the vehicle. The car has no vacuum leaks, compression issues, etc. according to the doc. below.
I knew I was missing something on the list, the car does have a 4" intake inlet and an air filter that looks identical to the one that is sold on english racing's site. So I assume this was purchased and installed at the time of it being pro tuned and for open vent. It does not have a MAF sensor any more.
The prior owner had the car for about 2-1/2 years and had it tuned by English Racing. The build was done by the owner before him (10k on the build) . The one key question I did ask him when I bought it is if any engine parts, bov's, etc. had been changed on the car since the time it was tuned in 2016 and he said all the parts have remained the same.
The IACV's are constantly going out in these. It's a common problem. Most people's stalling issues are caused by this especially in the 8's. My car however (evo 8 as well) had the same issue and it was randomly caused by my alternator tensioner pully being slightly worn and not keeping my alternator going at stop signes. the belt wasn't squeeky and felt like it had decent tension so it was hard to track down. I even took it to English and they couldn't diagnose the problem. Changed the pully just for ****s and Gigs and solved the problem. Worth taking a look at.
When I had my stalling issues I had the same idea as u and bought a new Bov. Did nothing. I wouldn't buy one cause I doubt that's the issue. If u have a buddy with a boosted car that VTAs borrow his and try it.
The IACV's are constantly going out in these. It's a common problem. Most people's stalling issues are caused by this especially in the 8's. My car however (evo 8 as well) had the same issue and it was randomly caused by my alternator tensioner pully being slightly worn and not keeping my alternator going at stop signes. the belt wasn't squeeky and felt like it had decent tension so it was hard to track down. I even took it to English and they couldn't diagnose the problem. Changed the pully just for ****s and Gigs and solved the problem. Worth taking a look at.
Thanks for the info, I like the idea on the pulley and serpentine belts, I was looking at them the other day and the belt does need replaced, so I will definitely get new parts and rule that out for sure..
I have read a lot about the IACV issues so I think that might be the first thing I start with. Is it worthwhile to buy a cheap OE brand like a NAPA IACV first and see if it makes a difference? If it does, then purchase the $200 oem one?
I stumbled upon an IACV that was in the center console that I never saw when I bought the car, the previous owner had to have known of the issue and forgot to mention the parts, prior owner purchased a new IACV and gasket from Mitsubishi.
Long story short, I was pretty excited because this might clear up my issue...I swapped out the IACV, the original one was extremely dirty, but after installing this new one, its a little bit different then the original oem one. It has a spring on the outside of the control valve. The car will not stay running now with this new one installed, it wants to start and idle but it dies every time. I put the old one back in and it runs like normal.
Do the evo 8's only like IACV's that are OEM?
OEM IACV
OE? IACV (what I found in the center console that previous owner purchased and the one I swapped in but the engine did not like it and would not stay running)
Hello everyone! first off...after about 14 years I finally bought myself an EVO 8, but I have a couple questions and issues with it.
I'll list the mods below, but first I've owned several turbo vehicles so I think I have already ID'd the problem but I wanted others to see if my diagnosis is correct, or offer any recommendations.
The car sometimes dips below 500 rpms and wants to die when just cruising around town/side streets, this doesn't happen all the time, but occasionally when shifting out of gear and into neutral coming to a stop it sometimes starts to hesitate and stalls. The car came with a Forge TYPE RS BOV that is open vent, but it was tuned by English Racing in 2016. I believe the valve is what is causing the issues and sometimes not shutting at these idle rpms causing intake pressure to vent, and the engine to stall.
The car makes incredible power and runs really great in every other situation. 0- xxx mph, etc. so I do not think this is related to a mapping issue. My belief is that the BOV will not stay fully shut when the engine is under vacuum at certain times. Also, I don't know if other variables like atmospheric changes can cause these issues either, since this car was tuned in Portland, and its now in N. Idaho. Or something where more vacuum is being pulled by the HKS cams causing the BOV spring to not be able to hold the valve shut under vacuum.
Questions 1) The Forge TYPE RS BOV does come with this "uprated RS spring", I haven't ID'd if that is currently whats installed, but if it does have this heavier spring in it already what are my alternatives? shims? another bov? 2) If I do need to get a different type of BOV will this effect the tune in any way that is currently on the car? 3) After hearing all this, what is the likelihood of the car actually having a vacuum or boost leak?
I haven't done much tinkering with the soft-hard settings on the BOV, I do know that it is +2 full turns away from maxing out the hard setting from the way I received the vehicle. The car has no vacuum leaks, compression issues, etc. according to the doc. below.
486 awhp @ 25 PSI pump gas
Mods:
weisco pistons
manley rods
6266 turbo
forge type rs BOV
tial external wg
ams intercooler and kit
hks 272 cams
aem adjustable cam gears
hks timing belt
1200 cc fic injectors
3" tbe
ams turbo manifold
spark tech coil packs
Second Post:
I knew I was missing something on the list, the car does have a 4" intake inlet and an air filter that looks identical to the one that is sold on english racing's site. So I assume this was purchased and installed at the time of it being pro tuned and for open vent. It does not have a MAF sensor any more.
The prior owner had the car for about 2-1/2 years and had it tuned by English Racing. The build was done by the owner before him (10k on the build) . The one key question I did ask him when I bought it is if any engine parts, bov's, etc. had been changed on the car since the time it was tuned in 2016 and he said all the parts have remained the same.
Third Post:
Update:
I stumbled upon an IACV that was in the center console that I never saw when I bought the car, the previous owner had to have known of the issue and forgot to mention the parts, prior owner purchased a new IACV and gasket from Mitsubishi.
Long story short, I was pretty excited because this might clear up my issue...I swapped out the IACV, the original one was extremely dirty, but after installing this new one, its a little bit different then the original oem one. It has a spring on the outside of the control valve. The car will not stay running now with this new one installed, it wants to start and idle but it dies every time. I put the old one back in and it runs like normal.
Do the evo 8's only like IACV's that are OEM?
[IMG]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evolutionm.net-vbulletin/300x225/s_l300_524e56c19577c57a4675f2589baa66d17d75e317.jp g OEM IACV
OE? IACV (what I found in the center console that previous owner purchased and the one I swapped in but the engine did not like it and would not stay running)
I didn't solve the issue, I thought it was the iacv, but it appears to be unrelated to my original post. Think its a mapping issue. plz just delete this my original topic is unrelated to the problem now I am almost certain
My 2 cents. If English tuned it there is probably no mapping issue. Those guys are the best. I have had nothing but top knotch tunes from them. Unless someone other that English was messing with it of course. But good luck on your hunt sir. I hope u track it down.
My 2 cents. If English tuned it there is probably no mapping issue. Those guys are the best. I have had nothing but top knotch tunes from them. Unless someone other that English was messing with it of course. But good luck on your hunt sir. I hope u track it down.
I do agree with that, it was not a knock at them at all, but I replaced the IACV and it made no difference, cleaned and re greased the BOV and inspected everything again for leaks. The reason why I think its a tune issue, is because the prior owner said something about when he had it tuned it wasn't running that well when he got it home so I believe after a few weeks he met up with the guys at English racing during a road tour and they did some adjustments on it. That's all I know but it made me question the tune or its idling trim parameters. Not sure what else to try, maybe I'll try your alternator pulley.
That's unfortunate. Sounds pretty annoying. I would find out if English can give u a re tune discount. I think they charge like 800 bucks for a tune wich is very steep. If they made some sort of mistake on the initial tune I think it would be worth a shot to ask for a discount.
May 13, 2018, 09:41 PM
