N1MR0D

So I have read no less than 16 hours of threads on the EVO's fuel system before posting this thread. I am going e85. I have an appointment booked for the middle of June @ P&L motorsports in Lisle, IL base on some of you guys' recommendations. I have a stock IX engine with 145,XXX miles on it. It has the AMS IC, AMS 3" TBE, AMS LICP and a whole lot of new suspension parts with anti-seize on everything. I just pulled the fuel pump tonight to verify nothing stupid was going to happen (like broken rusted studs snapping off or needing to replace the fuel tank.

I know I need a new fuel pump and new injectors. I bought a short route UICP, small battery kit, SD setup and some other crap I don't even know. (Flame suite on) I have a lot of things going on and this repair project has been taking over the garage for too long.

So needless to say I just want some guidance. WTF do I do about the fuel pump/supply system. I will be pulling the engine this winter to get the car ready for bigger power. Say 550ish? I don't know. I am following 2006EvoIXer thread with great enthusiasm and he seem to be going in the direction I would like to. And in asking these questions I am trying to prevent doing double work.

I have the entire rear of the car apart minus the fuel tank. So while it's all apart do I:

Install a Walbro 450 or the BR double pumper?
Run new -6AN line
Is the purpose of high and low power so you don't over run the return fuel line? If I run new lines why not run new returns also?
What is the deal with the high and low power if I am mistaken..
High Z or low Z. Is one truly better than another? Does brand name matter such as paying $900 for the Injector dynamics or are the FIC better @ $520?


Literally their was so much to consider and I am looking for some clarity. Thank you friends.

ExViTermini

iTrader: (25)

Walbro 450
Stock lines
Hobbs switch with a dedicated line T'd at the pump(stock voltage pattern until over 15ish psi then direct voltage thru hobbs)
High Z
Fic 1650

N1MR0D

I appreciate your input but I would like to learn more about why you suggest the routes you did. I would rather not be a mindless retard and actually understand what and why. Thank you ExViTermini!

ExViTermini

iTrader: (25)

Stock lines will be plenty fine at the 550whp level on e85.

450 as it will be plenty at that power level with full voltage(supplied by the hobbs), and it will be cheaper and simpler, as well as no leaks like a lot of the double pumper setups.

Hobb's switch setup so that you can retain stock voltage functionality for driveability(pump won't overrun regulator or siphon tube at stock voltages).

High Z injectors will drive worlds better than low Z

1650 is smallest FIC to meet your goals, and they are a great injector.

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

I was surprised to see someone reading through my thread. Thanks for the call out
Learn from my mistakes
As ExViTermini said, Wally 450 is probably the best choice for 550-650 whp (make sure to get the E85 version). My AEM 320 will probably max out between 550-575whp. High/low voltage is to reduce fuel flows when off boost (so no need to increase return line -4an). Hi Z has better control for high injector flows (1400+cc). The easiest way to bump current is with Hobbs switch and separate 10awg line. Use Hobbs in STM kit and use it on ground switching control. Keep an eye out for used FIC 1650 (which are actually 1400cc) and get them cleaned by FIC in Florida. Look for the newer style injectors (skinny body injectors).

Before doing all these, do compression test to make sure your engine can handle the extra power. Also, do a boost leak test to make sure you're not leaking boost (and running your engine rich, which wears out your rings faster).

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

This is how I would wire the STM Fuel Pump rewiring kit:

#30 (blue wire) - feed wire from battery (add a fuse for 15A).
#87A (red wire) - not used.
#87 (yellow wire) - connect this is to the pump wire (thick white wire).
#86 (black wire) - connect this to #87 above
#85 (white wire) - connect this to Hobbs switch and other connector of Hobbs switch to chassis ground.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

If running stock voltage to avoid over taxing the fuel system, how does it manage, once the Hobbs switch let's the voltage go up?

ExViTermini

iTrader: (25)

Because the hobb's switch doesn't trigger until XX boost, when the required volume is already high enough that it won't be overrunning the regulator or siphon.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

Good call on doing your research. This platform has ALOT of information on it. Here are some suggestions for your path.

I would do a good drop in pump like the walbro 255 until you are ready to change the turbocharger. The stock turbo is out of breath around 400whp or so if you are going to try and limit tq to 400ft lbs on the stock bottom end. Typically to get it to make more then 400whp you have to spike the boost high and it also creates excessive TQ. Going with a regular pump is easy and less chance of any issues when cutting the factory basket, adding wiring etc. I like to keep it simple as long as possible.
Once you are ready to change the turbo then going to a high pressure walbro 450 and getting it properly rewired with the high/low circuit . Its important to do all of those steps correctly or have it done by someone with a good track record.
You can leave the stock lines if you are only going for 550whp or so If you want. Mfred did a test years back and with stock lines and there is more pressure at the pump but depending on your end goal you can let it be. Going to a -6 will lower pump pressure when tested at the housing. It just makes it easier for the fuel to flow.

Injector dynamics make a great injector. The ID1300/1700 are a true Motorsport injector and perform well under all conditions when tuned properly. Here is a video worth watching.


However there are alot of options these days and most importantly you should ask who is going to tune your car what you should buy. Most tuners have a preference because they have used injector XXX many times and have tuned the file well enough to avoid common driveability issues on the stock ecu. There are alot of reputable tuners available and you are paying for the tune/skill set they have developed over the years tuning many cars with solid and reliable results. Having a street car that starts well, idles with ac and drives great is priceless.

Once the car is tuned its possible to make very small changes as needed. Its better to stay on the conservative side IMO.

The evo is a great platform and can be taken pretty far but attention to all details is important.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

I agree with the above ^. Seeing as you're still on stock turbo, being preemptive with the fuel mods will only potentially create headaches for yourself. If I were you I would just pick up a Wally 255 (it's cheap as far as fuel pumps go and have the best track record for reliability) and some low Z 850 or 950 FIC injectors (they won't break the bank and will be plenty large for a stock turbo). You could also go with high Z injectors.

ExViTermini

iTrader: (25)

Why have the guy spending money and time to do things twice?

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

Awesome video! Used ID injectors will likely be the real thing. Just make sure you look at the laser etching. Smart move by ID

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

N1MR0D: are you certain you will upgrade your turbo to FP Red or equivalent this coming winter? If so, I suggest you solder a 10 awg onto your power supply wire to pump connector and run that to battery. Cap battery end so you don't short your fuel pump. While you're doing this, you may want to add a small wire to connect to volt meter so you want watch pump voltage from driver seat. While your back end is opened up, go ahead an solder your 10awg ground wire. Make sure you don't solder the fuel sending unit wires by mistake (thin wires). If you're like me, you will want to double up the ground wire by connecting it to frame (seat belt anchor) and run to battery negative and also ground to anything electrical along the way (like radio cluster and cigarette lighter frame, and especially the grounding bolts of the ECU).
Keep your OEM pump in place until you upgrade your turbo, so you will pull the assembly again. If you have your pump assembly out, go ahead and take lots if pictures, so you can plan for the Wally 450. Please post those pictures because I will be installing my 450 in a few weeks and I can start planning early.

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

By the way, REALLY smart of you to research before going at it. Proper planning prevents poor performance.
I couldn't find much info when I started upgrading, especially the AEM 320 fuel pump (I think it was $250-$300 installed). I think that was one mistake I'm doing twice. I didn't know about the rewiring until after a tuning session, so that was another ($600) mistake. Except I'm going to do the install the second time and clean up my fuel tank from the first install (I truly think dirt fell in from sloppy install because my hatch was bent to get assembly out). Do as much of the work yourself to prevent sloppy work of shops. There are so many evo owners here to help you through the work step by step. Be patient and you will end up with better quality work.

deylag

iTrader: (23)

I assume the purpose of your wiring was to give the fuel pump battery voltage when the hobbs switch is activated.

Let's break it down:

When you do the rewire and cut the fuel pump connector wires you have the fuel pump connector with two open leads: a white wire lead and a black wire lead.

Then the fuel tank harness now has two open leads: a white wire lead and a black wire lead.
The white wire lead on the fuel tank harness is +12V switched power. If I understand this idea correctly then #86 (black wire lead) on the relay should be connected to the fuel tank harness +12V switched power (white power lead). Then we power the hobbs switch with #85. The hobbs switch negative lead will then connect to a chassis ground or the black wire lead on fuel tank harness. This will energize the coil on the relay to power the hobb's switch. Thus, giving battery power to the pump when the hobbs switch is activated.

The rest of the connections
#30 (blue wire) is connected to +12V fused battery power
#85 (white wire) lead goes to positive (power) lead on the hobb's switch
#87 (yellow wire) lead connects to the fuel pump connector (white wire lead)
Black wire lead of fuel pump connector goes to ground

The fuel pump connector black wire lead will be connected to ground.