When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got some nice plans this winter, sorta half started even. Here's a little list of things Im doing (will add pictures later), but would be sweet to see what others are getting done.
-315s on 18x12s (the big change)
-Putting front bar back in, and some spring changes to go with it.
-Finally adding some front Aero. Working with PA to see if theres anything special we can do beside basic splitter for aero.
-Changing to exedy twin so I can baby things less at pro's.
-OS Giken rear diff to replace my ~7y/o TRE 12 plate.
-Hoping to finish up Rear Upright
-New style of front upright with a radial mount wilwood superlite caliper and giro light weight rotor. Should be good for over 10lbs per front corner.
Most of my list is pretty realistic, as long as I dont kill myself between full time job, side job, and family. Its a good thing they're accommodating on these things
Rollcage going in for me at the moment. Too fast now without one. Keeping it simple, not too many bars for now (I can always add later).
Low side intrusion for ease of use.
Beginning to feel like a broken record with how many times I've written this down for myself as I keep adding and removing things lol. Feel like I'm already behind the curve to be ready by March but here's what I'm hoping to get done:
- Said front knuckles with radial mount wilwoods. All of the brake, none of the flex
- Poly rear suspension bushings. To replace my tired, original 110k bushings
- New fuel setup. Stock mount 6gal cell, aftermarket pump hanger w/wally 450, new rail w/FIC 1450s. Should give me enough headroom to make 550whp or melt the turbo if desired. Might just shelf this for next year
- Front subframe. Not sure I'm going to be able to get this in the budget, but saves weight and will make servicing the engine, trans, tcase a bit easier
- SSB LCAs. To get that high caster I've been craving
- New splitter. Tracing my current one onto a sheet of alumalite to drop some weight and gain rigidity. May move from 5" extension to 7", still undecided
- Remove firewall insulation. The last of my sound deadening
- Billet steering rack bushings. Already designed it, just have to finalize some dimensions and do a test print for fitment
- Shifter standoffs. Raising my CAE shifter another 3". Puts it right level with the middle of the steering wheel
- Couplerless aluminum charge pipes. Aluminum charge pipes to drop weight with Vibrant HD clamps for easy removal and no more blowing couplers on track. Probably only doing the lower pipe this year since it's the more annoying one to get to.
-Alcon BBK (ordered)
-Assemble long block (done)
-Install ultimate ratio ShepTrans with ACT XTSD
-ShepTrans stage 2 t-case with wavetrac
-JRZ RS pros (might not install since I plan on running enthusiast class)
-install jdm headlights
-install CSF radiator and fan
-need a new windshield
-order tires
-flush fuel system
-order new front seats
-order a new rack and pinion or get mine rebuilt
-install STM race oil cooler set up
anddddd I’m sure I’m missing some stuff. Should be done done by December or January, but the cars in California and we don’t have real winters there
Last edited by L888Apex; Nov 12, 2018 at 09:48 AM.
I have my first round of competition on 7th - 9th Dec so we are currently testing like crazy getting ready.
Ive been having issues with keeping oil in my rear diff. Every time id go on track i would lose all the fluid out of it and it would be all over the diffuser and bumper.
We would run it up on stands and couldnt fault a leak. Suspected it was being pushed out the breather due to my new LSD + no ayc mod.
I went and spent $800 on a pump and lines and fittings to essentially "drysump" the rear diff and have a circulation pump setup.
It feeds in via the 2 drain plugs and returns via the 2 fill plugs and the idea is to constantly pump oil around between the 2 chambers to keep the level even as i thought the oil was sloshing and filling the LSD side up and dumping out the breather.
Turns out once i got the pump all hooked up and turned it on that oil was pissing out the LH axle. Pulled the axle out and found the diff seal had actually disapeared at some point between me assembling the diff and me installing it. Bit of an oversight! So replaced that seal and no more leaky leaky but i now have a drysumped rear diff anyway haha. very interesting it wasnt leaking out the seal when i filled the level up manually the factory way and ran it on stands. must be just below the level of the axle when full and only when i went round a corner it would all pour out.
Now i have a drysumped rear diff and a big hole in my pocket as a result haha. TBF tho it probably isnt a bad thing due to the difference in chamber size and even tho ive drilled a hole between the 2 chambers to balance them out i think theres probably still an issue regarding oil sloshing around.
Only thing concerning me now is getting the actual level right so that it pumps effectively but i think if i slightly overfill it above the fill port plugs it will have enough fluid to circulate via the pump nicely but not be too full.
Apart from that weve been experimenting running 2mm toe out on the front and rear and it seems to be working really good. Im wanting to get to 4deg camber on the front also but even with the SSB offset tophats and offset washers in the strut im still only getting 3deg camber. ideally want to see 4deg to 4.5deg. Definately getting better midturn grip with the extra caster. was struggling on initial turn in but i think that is due to being on very old tires.
Also had a bit of a whoopsie on the very old tires and smashed another voltex front bumper so the spare is being painted up today ready to go on. More testing on saturday!!
Oh and just to work backwards and confuse you all since its essentially almost summer for me and ive just finished all my winter upgrades this is what i did over winter:
Removed AYC rear diff, Gutted AYC system, Binned the AYC Diff, Stripped casing of all traces of anything AYC. Drilled a hole between the Diff and AYC chambers. Made up a cnc doubler/strengthener to strengthen the chamber wall between the diff and AYC chambers where they are known to crack and installed a Cusco RS 1.5Way LSD.
Mounted a floor mounted OBP Pedal box, Dual brake cylinders, Removed all the remaining factory ABS and braking stuff, Added a pressure sensor for my brake lights to come on,
Swapped to a Bosch 82mm E Throttle, In preparation to get auto blip clutchless downshifts if my tuner ever actually sets it up.
Installed SSB Offset tophats and larger offset holes in my lower strut to get more camber. now at 3.5deg max camber but want another deg out of it somewhere.
Strengthened up the boot chassis mounts to take more load from the rear wing. little nervous about the rear wing putting to much twisting force on my carbon lid so we are trying to get more contact with the chassis mounts.
Replaced standard carbon bonnet with a voltex one for better cooling and airflow, Upgraded front aero a bit more, Completely closed in between splitter and flat floor, Redesigned side skirts so they look a little nicer
Things i didnt get done:
I wanted to do a full motorsport spec rewire but got mucked around by a company called privatespec and ended up having to use paypal to get my money refunded. Found another great company to do the job but just ran out of budget at the end of the day
I also wanted to get ahold of a set of LCA's from Dallas but they also ran out of budget.
I also removed all the ABS system wiring and bridged the AYC ECU speed sensors etc all over to try get rid of AYC fault 65 (no comms between abs ecu and ayc) but it didnt get rid of my fault. not sure whats going on there im kinda just accepting i have to run with no ACD working at the moment. all the literature im finding on ACD system ECU wiring relates to the USDM ECU's which seem to have a slightly different pinout to the JDM spec with AYC ecu. Might be worth trying to get ahold of a USDM Spec ecu to see if that sorts out my fault.
Things in the works between now and christmas:
I have a potential naming rights sponsor in the works who will inject some much needed major cashflow which will make a big difference for us over the season. So hopefully that comes through!
First on my list is to get some SSB upgrights from yours truely. then id like to find somebody to re loom my ecu but thats going to be a major. we have 7 weeks between round 1 and round 2 of our race calendar but still be a risky and expensive undertaking.
Last edited by bee-raddd; Nov 12, 2018 at 11:41 AM.
Utah Motorsports Campus is bringing back their WinterX series. Five track events from late December through February. It's standing-start, single timed laps. I expect most of the events this year to be run on a dry track, but I'm hoping for at least one snow day.
In preparation for the snow track day, I'll be switching over to my studless snow tires. Might also spend some time touching up the underbody rust and spray some fluid film into the crevices and high-exposure areas. I'll also switch to my softer springs for the winter.
My detached garage is unheated, so I try not to do too much work on the car over the winter. Really, I should work on getting heat in the garage this winter.
It's finally time to finish up the 6 year 300zx build.
So that's my plan.
Plenty to do as I keep changing the setup.
Fuel cell and plumbing, plumb the PS, relocate the fuse box. Decided to go more "race car" with it, so ABS and power brake delete. Hood Dump, larger turbo etc. Lots to do.
- Trying to get my rear diff situated, but my options suck:
1. Buy a Cusco/KAAZ and have it installed
2. Buy a used diff to send to Shep. Shep only machines the basket to add more OEM plates to existing; you have to have the original plates in there. I have Weir. Weir won't return emails regarding an order (two of us have emailed) so I'm guessing they have abandoned their kits. This leaves me to buy an entire seperate ****ing diff.
3. TRE won't verify if I need the original diff plates for an upgrade, so giving up after two weeks of waiting.
- Plywood splitter. This is turning out to take a lot more time than I originally thought. Test fitting mount brackets (without proper metal working tools) is a pain in my ***
- I'd like to build a diffuser but alumalite is about $250 per sheet, shipped to my house. Dang. Also the reason I'm using plywood for the splitter (at least until I get the final shape down.
- Finally installing the rebuilt 5spd that's been sitting in my garage. Saving the 6spd for when I can afford to have it rebuilt. Will suffer with the 5spd until then.
- Billet steering rack bushings. Already designed it, just have to finalize some dimensions and do a test print for fitment
- Shifter standoffs. Raising my CAE shifter another 3". Puts it right level with the middle of the steering wheel
small world: I did the same. I made bushings and risers just never installed them because I didn't have time to unbolt the rack and raise it up/change things. So, in my garage they all sit. Also, I used tubing to raise my shifter 3". It works GREAT.
- Trying to get my rear diff situated, but my options suck:
1. Buy a Cusco/KAAZ and have it installed
2. Buy a used diff to send to Shep. Shep only machines the basket to add more OEM plates to existing; you have to have the original plates in there. I have Weir. Weir won't return emails regarding an order (two of us have emailed) so I'm guessing they have abandoned their kits. This leaves me to buy an entire seperate ****ing diff.
3. TRE won't verify if I need the original diff plates for an upgrade, so giving up after two weeks of waiting.
- Plywood splitter. This is turning out to take a lot more time than I originally thought. Test fitting mount brackets (without proper metal working tools) is a pain in my ***
- I'd like to build a diffuser but alumalite is about $250 per sheet, shipped to my house. Dang. Also the reason I'm using plywood for the splitter (at least until I get the final shape down.
- Finally installing the rebuilt 5spd that's been sitting in my garage. Saving the 6spd for when I can afford to have it rebuilt. Will enjoy the 5spd until then.
Check for used sheets of alumalite in your area. There's a guy around me that Marc (V,8MR) found who sells 4x8' sheets for like $140 IIRC. I used HPDE for mine but it lacks rigidity and isn't super light. At least I can hit **** with it without too much damage lol.
As for your diff situation, I thought MFactory made rear diffs too. If you end up in a position where you need to buy new factory plates it'd probably be better to just go aftermarket.
Also, fixed
Originally Posted by kaj
small world: I did the same. I made bushings and risers just never installed them because I didn't have time to unbolt the rack and raise it up/change things. So, in my garage they all sit. Also, I used tubing to raise my shifter 3". It works GREAT.
I took the lazy route and just ordered 3" spacers from McMaster Carr. They were like $5/ea but at least they're shiny and I didn't have to do anything to them haha.
As for the steering rack bushing, I was looking at the Whiteline steering precision kit in my car and just thought it'd be easier to make something that's solid with similar geometry and less pieces. Dallas seemed pretty open to making a proto if he can find the time so we'll see what comes of it, it's not a huge priority right now but I would be curious to see if it's any improvement over the WL kit.
As for your diff situation, I thought MFactory made rear diffs too. If you end up in a position where you need to buy new factory plates it'd probably be better to just go aftermarket.
Also, fixed
zero local sheets of alumalite, unfortunately.
I hate the 5spd
Wow. MFactory is super reasonable on pricing. **edit never mind. The pricing I saw was for a helical unit, I guess.
Chase a noise in the rear, full alignment, nut and bolt, and corner balance. I did most of my new mods over last winter and this summer, since I took the year off
I'm not sure how much of this will get done over the winter as I have a few house projects that need attention, but this is the list I'd like to have finished before Solo Nats next year...
Start testing low fuel runs. I used to start events with 3/4 full tank because I was told (wrongfully) that the car will fuel starve. I'm pretty sure I was carrying 4-5 gallons of excess at all times during the 2018 season. (No co-driver usually)
Replace both front seats with one piece buckets. Everyone knows the 2015 Evo X comes with base lancer seats and even with a harness, do not provide enough support to keep you still. I'm also looking forward to the weight savings.
Replace OE battery with something LIPO. Probably something in the 5lb range.
Replace all brake rotors with 2-piece light weight stuff. (STU Legal?)
More spring rate in the rear. Go from 900 to 1000lbs or more. I need to keep the inside front wheel down on corner exit.
Replace clunky Whiteline rear endlinks.
Get Vorshlag front camber plates to gain as much caster as possible. Currently at 3.9 degrees.
Start testing more negative front camber. Ran -3.6 most of this year, but it might not have been enough.
Throw the car on the dyno and get the tune as perfect as possible. I can only do so much while street tuning by doing a few pulls here and there. Don't want to risk leaving any power on the table. Also, the tune did not work well at all while running a HPDE.
Stop skipping out on wet events. Practice as much as possible so your not caught out with your feet wet when it matters the most.
If my calculations are correct, I'll be taking about 110+ lbs out of the car and increasing front grip. Hopefully this can help push for the top spot in STU.
Nov 11, 2018, 10:17 PM
