Choosing the right Buschur Racing engine for your build.
Mar 3, 2011, 02:35 PM
#16
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In a week or so I will be driving my BR2.0LR with my fp black setup
My car is gonna be a DD, I stuck with the 2.0 since I feel will be best for street driving and if I decide to go "all out" I have a shortblock that is made for high rpms.
My car is gonna be a DD, I stuck with the 2.0 since I feel will be best for street driving and if I decide to go "all out" I have a shortblock that is made for high rpms.
Mar 3, 2011, 03:46 PM
#19
I don't want to sound like a dick BUT, as the title says, "Choosing the right Buschur Racing engine for your build". The last thing I want to do is tell people how to build an engine or what parts to choose.
As for the head work for the 2.4, we do it here, I think it's only about $150 for the basic work. There are a lot of guys not doing it and a lot of problems can arise from skipping it.
As for the 2.2, there are so many options out there, we offer more now than I ever thought I would. I use to be a die hard 2.0 man only. If you get right down to it a standard bore 2.3 I believe actually calculates to a 2.25 liter and it's rounded up to be called a 2.3. You are really splitting hairs on some of these combinations as it is.
I think for 99% of EVO's owners if they have a good 4G63 block core/crank the best solution is going to be the 2.0 or 2.3 as it is the cheapest to build. If you don't have a good core then going to the 4G64 makes sense because the core fees are so much lower. Then again I've had a few guys sell me their 4g63 blocks or crank and go the 2.1 or 2.4 route anyway, that way works out good financially too.
As for the head work for the 2.4, we do it here, I think it's only about $150 for the basic work. There are a lot of guys not doing it and a lot of problems can arise from skipping it.
As for the 2.2, there are so many options out there, we offer more now than I ever thought I would. I use to be a die hard 2.0 man only. If you get right down to it a standard bore 2.3 I believe actually calculates to a 2.25 liter and it's rounded up to be called a 2.3. You are really splitting hairs on some of these combinations as it is.
I think for 99% of EVO's owners if they have a good 4G63 block core/crank the best solution is going to be the 2.0 or 2.3 as it is the cheapest to build. If you don't have a good core then going to the 4G64 makes sense because the core fees are so much lower. Then again I've had a few guys sell me their 4g63 blocks or crank and go the 2.1 or 2.4 route anyway, that way works out good financially too.
Mar 3, 2011, 05:00 PM
#22
Have you considered making a 2.4LR-RPM? Using the superlight piston and the longer R/S ratio plus the billet crank and the lower chances of cracking cylinder walls plus a less expensive core I cant see any drawbacks. I do agree the larger displacement makes for a MUCH better street motor. I have several people I have recommended your 2.3's for and they are very happy with them.
Mar 3, 2011, 05:11 PM
#23
Yes, Id say those numbers are closest for our dyno, they are a general idea.
The 2.4LR is available with the billet crank actually, I forgot to list it. It is not available with the same design piston though. I could have them made but haven't found anyone interested in that type of build. The rod ratio on the 2.4LR is better than the 2.3RPM engine, in theory it should rev higher.
I will inject this into the information. We have built quite a few 2.1's, the engine makes very good power and produces nice low/mid range. I've built less 2.4's and never built a standard 2.4 or a 2.4LR for myself. I think the 2.4's, from what I've seen are "good" throughout the RPM band but fall short up top compared to all the other engines we offer.
I have always really liked the 2.3 and with the one I just built myself, 2.3RPM, I really couldn't be more impressed.
The 2.4LR is available with the billet crank actually, I forgot to list it. It is not available with the same design piston though. I could have them made but haven't found anyone interested in that type of build. The rod ratio on the 2.4LR is better than the 2.3RPM engine, in theory it should rev higher.
I will inject this into the information. We have built quite a few 2.1's, the engine makes very good power and produces nice low/mid range. I've built less 2.4's and never built a standard 2.4 or a 2.4LR for myself. I think the 2.4's, from what I've seen are "good" throughout the RPM band but fall short up top compared to all the other engines we offer.
I have always really liked the 2.3 and with the one I just built myself, 2.3RPM, I really couldn't be more impressed.
Mar 3, 2011, 09:33 PM
#28
I just had a 2.4 built by you David. AWD Motorsports is going to be installing it. I am sure they do the mod to head before they install it to the on the block.
What do you think of my set up thats in my sig David?
Whats not in my sig : 1200cc, GrimSpeed EBC, 4 Bar map,
What do you think of my set up thats in my sig David?
Whats not in my sig : 1200cc, GrimSpeed EBC, 4 Bar map,
Mar 3, 2011, 10:02 PM
#29
great info dave, thanks -
is the BR 2.0 a good choice if your goals are a little more modest - ~500/500? kind of just beyond the limit of a stock block - or would you say just start modding individual components of the motor?
im looking for something as reliable and trouble free as the oem engine, while being near worry-free at those power levels. no removing balance shafts, eats quart of oil every 1k miles, have to use 20w50, etc etc..
basically just a stronger oem engine - will the BR 2.0 serve that purpose?
is the BR 2.0 a good choice if your goals are a little more modest - ~500/500? kind of just beyond the limit of a stock block - or would you say just start modding individual components of the motor?
im looking for something as reliable and trouble free as the oem engine, while being near worry-free at those power levels. no removing balance shafts, eats quart of oil every 1k miles, have to use 20w50, etc etc..
basically just a stronger oem engine - will the BR 2.0 serve that purpose?
Mar 4, 2011, 06:02 AM
#30
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i have a BR 2.0 .. not bad at all .. DD had a 6765 couple 50psi spikes on e-85 .. little valve float from the head , but bottom end has been good to me .. pulling out rods to check bearings in the next few weeks ..