Noribilt San Antonio --- Never Going back!
Feb 15, 2013, 04:40 PM
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Noribilt San Antonio --- Never Going back!
Ill start with the history of this shop, I took my car to Noribilt mid January of 2012, with a blown stock motor. I had English Racing build me a LR 2.4 and assemble the long block, minus the IM. The motor was received by Noribilt mid April. I decided to upgrade my setup so I took their offer to build me an exh manifold for a 6266, it was supposed to take 2 weeks, but took 2 months.
I got the car back right before the 4th of July. I broke the motor in for 1k miles and then it dropped "1" intake valve. Noribilt blamed it on English Racing. English stated something had to be in the motor, so we sent it back to back and Myles upon opening the package showed us the bolt that fell out of the cylinder head. Noribilt claimed English "planted" the bolt, so they wouldnt have to fix it. Eventually both shops came together and paid for most of the work/parts, etc.
October 2012 I got the car back again. I drove it slightly for about a week and put approx 300 miles, when the transfercase locked up on me(https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-failure.html). Upon inspection the tcase was run low on fluid, causing the pinion bearing to burn up, literally. Noribilt denies fault full fault and wants to split the cost with me. I denied that offer, they proceed to find a suitable replacement. Their idea of suitable was a used Tcase from the forums with similar mileage, but under $750. Luckily for me one guy tried to take their money and run, the other sent a tcase that was bad. So while they kept taking chances, my car sat. Then they find out it took out my rear diff as well. They replace the tcase with one from a local guy who was selling a rebuilt one for a decent price and give me the used rear off one of the guys cars who worked there.
December 22, 2012 I get the car back again, but parked it since I was on Christmas leave and left the same day to California. I returned in January and have been driving the car since. On monday, FEB 11, 2013, after just putting another 1k miles on the car, I notice clutch slippage during normal driving. I take the car to Noribilt on Tuesday, one of their Techs drives it and says it has abnormal pedal pressure, his guess is the pressure plate is broken. I take the car home and look at the push/pull conversion that came with my Competition Twin Disk Clutch. I pull up the adjustment directions (http://www.competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-5106RR-1.pdf), which show to adjust the fork push bolt to 3mm, i measure where my car is, it measures approx 7-8 mm. I had noticed the engagement of my clutch pedal was high and was told so by people that had driven the car, but didnt pay any mind, since I assumed they set it up correctly. I advise Noribilt the next day, so they tell me to bring it in. I called Competition Clutch and speak with their Tech Dominic, I explain the symptoms and what I find, he informs me it sounds like the car is out of adjustment and like the install manual shows it can cause premature wear. I inform Noribilt of this and make them aware that the push/pull conversion was also rubbing against the Transmission. They attempt to re-adjust the clutch, they let me know it did not work and that after talking to Dominic @ Comp that it was a part failure, so they would not be helping me with the situation. I called Dominic back and he explains that once the clutch is worn out you can adjust it more to compensate for the worn discs. Noribilt takes that information and the fact the clutch is used to validate their "over-adjustment". I did the right thing upon buying this clutch used and sent the clutch to Competition, the tech just so happened to be Dominic who advised me the clutch was in almost new shape. I inform Noribilt, that Im going to take the car elsewhere to verify the issue, and that I would be taking them to court if it was due to their improper adjustment/installtion, they said go ahead.
At this time I decide to take the car to JMS, they remove the clutch and without knowing the situation tell me the adjustment on the clutch was wrong and the clutch had been overheated.
here's the pics:
you can see here where the improper adjustment caused the bolts on the pressure plate to come into contact with the floater ring(? sorry not sure what its called)
the bottom
disc 1
the bottom
floater 2
the bottom
disc 2
the bottom
and the flywheel
I called Noribilt once again to inform them of the findings and to offer a chance to inspect the clutch components before sending to Competition as well as the opportunity to settle before going to court. They called me back and declined. So per my Company Commanders advise, Im sending them a demand letter certified and taking this case to JAG to have them blacklisted for Military personnel. I will also attempt to take them to court for repairs.
I got the car back right before the 4th of July. I broke the motor in for 1k miles and then it dropped "1" intake valve. Noribilt blamed it on English Racing. English stated something had to be in the motor, so we sent it back to back and Myles upon opening the package showed us the bolt that fell out of the cylinder head. Noribilt claimed English "planted" the bolt, so they wouldnt have to fix it. Eventually both shops came together and paid for most of the work/parts, etc.
October 2012 I got the car back again. I drove it slightly for about a week and put approx 300 miles, when the transfercase locked up on me(https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-failure.html). Upon inspection the tcase was run low on fluid, causing the pinion bearing to burn up, literally. Noribilt denies fault full fault and wants to split the cost with me. I denied that offer, they proceed to find a suitable replacement. Their idea of suitable was a used Tcase from the forums with similar mileage, but under $750. Luckily for me one guy tried to take their money and run, the other sent a tcase that was bad. So while they kept taking chances, my car sat. Then they find out it took out my rear diff as well. They replace the tcase with one from a local guy who was selling a rebuilt one for a decent price and give me the used rear off one of the guys cars who worked there.
December 22, 2012 I get the car back again, but parked it since I was on Christmas leave and left the same day to California. I returned in January and have been driving the car since. On monday, FEB 11, 2013, after just putting another 1k miles on the car, I notice clutch slippage during normal driving. I take the car to Noribilt on Tuesday, one of their Techs drives it and says it has abnormal pedal pressure, his guess is the pressure plate is broken. I take the car home and look at the push/pull conversion that came with my Competition Twin Disk Clutch. I pull up the adjustment directions (http://www.competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-5106RR-1.pdf), which show to adjust the fork push bolt to 3mm, i measure where my car is, it measures approx 7-8 mm. I had noticed the engagement of my clutch pedal was high and was told so by people that had driven the car, but didnt pay any mind, since I assumed they set it up correctly. I advise Noribilt the next day, so they tell me to bring it in. I called Competition Clutch and speak with their Tech Dominic, I explain the symptoms and what I find, he informs me it sounds like the car is out of adjustment and like the install manual shows it can cause premature wear. I inform Noribilt of this and make them aware that the push/pull conversion was also rubbing against the Transmission. They attempt to re-adjust the clutch, they let me know it did not work and that after talking to Dominic @ Comp that it was a part failure, so they would not be helping me with the situation. I called Dominic back and he explains that once the clutch is worn out you can adjust it more to compensate for the worn discs. Noribilt takes that information and the fact the clutch is used to validate their "over-adjustment". I did the right thing upon buying this clutch used and sent the clutch to Competition, the tech just so happened to be Dominic who advised me the clutch was in almost new shape. I inform Noribilt, that Im going to take the car elsewhere to verify the issue, and that I would be taking them to court if it was due to their improper adjustment/installtion, they said go ahead.
At this time I decide to take the car to JMS, they remove the clutch and without knowing the situation tell me the adjustment on the clutch was wrong and the clutch had been overheated.
here's the pics:
you can see here where the improper adjustment caused the bolts on the pressure plate to come into contact with the floater ring(? sorry not sure what its called)
the bottom
disc 1
the bottom
floater 2
the bottom
disc 2
the bottom
and the flywheel
I called Noribilt once again to inform them of the findings and to offer a chance to inspect the clutch components before sending to Competition as well as the opportunity to settle before going to court. They called me back and declined. So per my Company Commanders advise, Im sending them a demand letter certified and taking this case to JAG to have them blacklisted for Military personnel. I will also attempt to take them to court for repairs.
Feb 16, 2013, 10:01 AM
#2
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fort Campbell, KY
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn bro, seems like your car has been on the slab for a while due to their incompetence!! I am also in the military, and am very careful who I take my car to. And even after that you may still get bitten!! Nice of you to get them blacklisted so they don't screw anymore military brothers!! Good luck bro, My advice: Get you a new clutch, I would not put that one back in after all that stress!
Trending Topics
Feb 18, 2013, 06:41 PM
#8
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
every issue thats come up has always had someone else to blame. you guys for the head; Mitsubishi/mileage for the t-case; now Competition for the clutch. they have an issue with turning the finger back on themselves
Feb 28, 2013, 04:09 PM
#11
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jason,
I got your twin all inspected and found the cause of your slipping issues. The discs on the assembly were contaminated with what appears to be antiseize which was used as the input shaft lubricant. Unfortunately I no longer have replacement discs available to sell you. If you can give me a call we can go over some options on replacement.
Dominic F.
Warranty/Tech
Competition Clutch, Inc
I got your twin all inspected and found the cause of your slipping issues. The discs on the assembly were contaminated with what appears to be antiseize which was used as the input shaft lubricant. Unfortunately I no longer have replacement discs available to sell you. If you can give me a call we can go over some options on replacement.
Dominic F.
Warranty/Tech
Competition Clutch, Inc
Mar 1, 2013, 05:38 PM
#14
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it gets worse, this is after sending pictures to Jacks Transmissions in reference to my transfercase that they destroyed
and for easier reading:
Jason,
Looking at those pictures – the failure was definitely caused by low/no fluids. The internals on that transfer case heated up so bad that it caused the bearing to fret in some areas and melt in others. In this picture (http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...3/IMAG0945.jpg) you can see the heat marks on the pinion shaft. That shaft is supposed to be a nice silver/gray aluminum type of color – not brown, black, and burnt.
Unless there was an external leak somewhere which caused the fluid to leak out, I would bet that it was not filled properly.
Thanks,
Tim
From: Jason
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 2:36 PM
To: sales@jackstransmissions.com
and for easier reading:
Jason,
Looking at those pictures – the failure was definitely caused by low/no fluids. The internals on that transfer case heated up so bad that it caused the bearing to fret in some areas and melt in others. In this picture (http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...3/IMAG0945.jpg) you can see the heat marks on the pinion shaft. That shaft is supposed to be a nice silver/gray aluminum type of color – not brown, black, and burnt.
Unless there was an external leak somewhere which caused the fluid to leak out, I would bet that it was not filled properly.
Thanks,
Tim
From: Jason
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 2:36 PM
To: sales@jackstransmissions.com
