Try holding down the test button longer, say 5+ seconds. I don't know if the shop primed the line for you or not. If not, it'll take a while for the fluid to reach the nozzle.

 

I remounted my nozzle closer to the TB and that helped. If I rev to 4000-4500 or so with the clutch in and then hit the test button, I see the drop in AFRs though there is no stumble. I also saw 100 psi, not 80 psi from the get go.

 

Tried it. 5...10...15 secs didn't make a difference.
Its primed well, as i removed the #7 nozzle assembly, primed the pump/hose, and reattached everything. The alky liquid is coming out and spray pattern looks consistent when viewed thru the UIP, but the smc gauge only reads 80 psi. And I know its not the smc gauge reading low since I tried a 'calibrated' gauge inline for reference and still got 80psi.

Funny thing is I was actually tuned at this 80 psi range and my AFR were still in the 10.8-11.1 range with no knock at 25-26 psi boost.

 

No, just what SMC told me over the phone.

Dip Switch setting (#1/#2):

Default (100psi?)= UP/UP
+20psi=DOWN/UP
+40PSI=DOWN/DOWN

 

Well, has anyone thought that maybe this lack of stumbling is related to the #7 nozzle instead of the nozzle people used to use? I haven't been keeping track of alky since I hadn't planned on doing it for a while, but then one fell in my lap, so here I am. I thought that they recently started doing the #7 nozzle for additional safety and was wondering if that would be the reason why our cars aren't stumbling with the use of the test button...as if the amount of injection isn't quite enough to cause the engine to choke.

I will test the dipswitch settings to see if I see 100psi instead of 80psi. Anyone else have any suggestion on this? Do we want/need to see 100psi when testing?

 

No noticeable stumble here too while reving to 3000 and pressing the test button. I only notice my wideband will read real low <10.0? so I know its spraying.
Try pressing the test button at idle (engine warm) and the car will stumble and almost stall.

Yea, it doesn't make any sense, but hey it worked after Al tuned it....

 

Warrtalon, mine stumbles when I push the test button at 3K rpm and I also have the #7 nozzle.

 

Mine stumbles also and AFR will dip into the low 10's/high 9's (#7 nozzle). If I hold the test button for 5+ seconds, the car stumbles so badly that it almost cuts out. The XD-1 shows 9's/10's for a few more seconds after the test button is released due to flooding I assume.

 

Well I just purchased my Buschur set-up, Im sure it will be a lot better than the coolingmist one I had that never worked.

 

You have to know how to tune it, for it to work. Slapping on a meth kit and hoping for instant power is not going to work.

 

This was all using a UTEC which I don't even have anymore, and I thought I did a great job tuning my car and others locally, never had a complaint from anyone. I did everything by ear, which the maftpro doesn't allow, although I have more ideas coming as soon as I get my scantool so I can get the car fully tuned and start creating different .bin for different boost levels. Right now the car is at 20psi until I can find a silicone 2.75 or 2.5" depending on what the stock IC piping is 45 degree elbow for my UICP which I keep blowing off at 23psi. BTW you still have the boost controller set aside for me, gimme a PM on the price shipped, I need less isht on the interior of the car the HKS is taking up valuable space for my in car computer. This is the main reason why I want the timing control, evorent is going to let me use a motec to see if I like it and then go from there if the timing control isn't out in 6 weeks or less for the maftpro.

 

You don't need another bin for different boost levels. That is what the VE table is for. We can take this to the MaftPro forum if you like. The high boost sensor is $65.72 and the pnp harness is $23.25 through us. I have map switching for the cars I tune.

 

The smaller nozzle was used as the large one that the kits used in the beginning just put in too much alky for the small displacement engine. It was so big too much fuel had to be pulled out. This left myself and AL feeling if anything happened with the kit engine failure would come from it.

With the new nozzle we don't have to pull so much fuel out and have actually turned the alky OFF just too see if the engines would blow after a tune. No problems.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

How does the 7lb nozzle relate to say a 15gph?

As a tuner, you always want your systems to be as idiotproof as possible in case of an issue or user error, however there is a sizeable chunk of power left on the table as a result. It is a balancing act for sure and we understand why tuners choose to do this. Long term, it is a better decision.

 

I'm using a 15gph, and I do not recommend that nozzle to anyone using anything less than a GT30 series turbo.

Why?

Simply because my initial observations seem to indicate that anything less than a GT30 series doesn't have enough oomph at higher rpm to expose a significant difference in peak power. The 7gph system appears to perform surprisingly comparably. Additionally, I can add (from experience) that if system function is interrupted, the result is significant detonation - not good.